Jump to content
SAU Community

Is My Cas Not Working Properly?

jbonez

By jbonez,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

jbonez Enthusiast

jbonez

Posted
Posted

Hey,

Trying to diagnose a problem with my crank angle sensor,

Its an rb25 running an rb20 red top cas. (ems 8860 ecu)

Im not getting spark under cranking conditions, if I turn the ignition on & take the cas out & spin the thing I can see the coils firing and hear the injectors clicking (they coils seem to be firing very fast tho)

Wiring seems in check as far as I can see.

Is this a cas related thing or would neither injectors or spark work if the cas was playing up?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319244-is-my-cas-not-working-properly/
Share on other sites
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

battery faulty or dead. Starter motor drawing too much current. Check earths, check cranking voltages.

If the cas works when you turn it manually, but not when cranking, then it's usually a case of voltage drop when cranking

slydn32 Rookie

slydn32

Posted
Posted

have u looked on ur cam to see if the key is still on it ( little peice of metal that links inside cas ) sorry dont know technical name ! but it wont spin it if its snapped off ..

had similar problem when it didnt link up and cas wouldnt sit properly in.

Really hope this isnt the case otherwise potentially ( could be wrong ) rb20 cas dont work with rb25's ?? good luck

jbonez Enthusiast

jbonez

Posted
  • Author
Posted
have u looked on ur cam to see if the key is still on it ( little peice of metal that links inside cas ) sorry dont know technical name ! but it wont spin it if its snapped off ..

had similar problem when it didnt link up and cas wouldnt sit properly in.

Really hope this isnt the case otherwise potentially ( could be wrong ) rb20 cas dont work with rb25's ?? good luck

--------------------------

Hey mate, I actually have an ecu that requires the cas wheel to be 1 tooth out, (from 60btdc to 1btdc-10btdc) so instead of spinning the internal trigger wheel I just removed the half moon key. You will find that the key is only for alignment, there is actually 8 grooved teeth that the cas rotates on, the reason people stuff up is they put it back in the wrong way after the tooth has snapped off.

As far as Im aware the cas is internally (trigger discs) the same from r32-r34, however the camshafts & alignment keys change or something similar rb20 & rb25 series 1 cas are the same other then the plug, they both have the half moon alignment key.

---------

The cas must be working fine & it would still spark and carry on if it was out of alignment. I think my earth cable might be too small so im going to try this tonight.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I'm hoping I just don't have to do an engine rebuild NOW. Doesn't mean I won't do it at some point. I think a plus point is that the car presumably ran on or close to stock power nearly all it's life so far. Only the Owner I bought it from actually increased power with a standalone ECU and blew the OEM turbos. And after it got thee 2860s it wasn't driven an awful lot either.   That is what I meant. With the twins coming on so late (4500-5000rpm) I hope the rods won't want to exit the block prematurely. And it still being a 26 means the torque curve isn't gonna hike up all that much.   It didn't blow up on the dyno when they tuned it to 500ish crank. So I suppose it'll be okay for now. They did put a Tomei head gasket on first though which did not seal at all, and they redid it with a Cometic one. Which I hope won't be my water leak.   Mainly anything oil. So far all it has is the N1 pump, oil restrictor and a filter relocation kit with a cooler.
    • GTSBoy
      Comfortable replacement seats for R32 GTR

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      15000? ish? Something like that anyway. It wasn;t so much a wear as a tear that then spread. Might have lasted a lot longer if not bothered by just one incident, whatever it was. I took a punt. They are really comfortable and do a good job of holding. My daughter HATED it when I first put them in, and probably still does now. She has sensory issues and hates the way they are all up your business. I'm 197cm and 95kg. Not fat or particularly wide, and the XL size seat is the rigth fit. If I was any fatter it would start to get too snug. Any skinnier and you'd possibly want the smaller width.
    • r32-25t
      Comfortable replacement seats for R32 GTR

      By r32-25t · Posted

      Mrs rs focus came factory with recaro cs  sportsters in it and they a pain in the ass to get in and out of with the really high bolsters, once you were in them they were one of the most comfortable seats I have ever sat in
    • GTSBoy
      Shifting questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The NA 2.5 has very little torque. You won't feel much. Those trannies are also a million years old now and it could well be f**ked. First generation electronically controlled autos will often refuse to kick down, ete, etc, depending on what's wrong with them.
    • GTSBoy
      ugently need expert / experienced opinion

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, but no but yes but no. Those "it's fine up to 500HP" rules and everything else like it were all determined back when the cars were 10 years old. As they are now 30 years old.....what do you reckon the chances of something shitting the bed are? I'd say they are much higher now than they used to be. You might be lucky. You might be unlucky. Spin the wheel and find out. Yeah, nah. It's actually exactly the opposite. Making boost early and having heaps of torque able to be generated right in the middle of the rev range will do more to damage an engine than having to rev it high to make the power. Think about the load on the conrods, bearings, etc, to make 400HP at 4000 rpm, vs 400 HP at 6500 rpm. So someone has already "let the Nissan out" which is how we describe the increased chance of a fiddled with engine to have had something done wrongly. Many more engines that have been opened die than stock ones do - even if you into consideration how they are treated wrt power levels and the like. Again, not saying that yours will definitely have been put back together by a moron. But the possibility does exist. It's still a lottery. Spin the wheel. What weakspots?
×
×
  • Create New...