Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...

Just wondering how much lower than stock the car sits on the BC BR's when adjusted to maximum height. I need new suspension but am having trouble finding stock replacements. BC seems to be a good option for replacements and will give me the option of going a bit lower in the future if needed?

Also, just on a whim, anyone have some 260rs/stagea rs4s stock suspension in good condition laying around, my drivers side has sagged massively :/

You would be able to run stock height if you set them up like that Mike.

Have you tried this Scotty? Only asking as the rears on my R34 are close to max height and still 1-1.5" lower than stock. Different car of course.

hmm so might loose an inch or so possibly. With previous cars i've owned coil-overs, even at their max height setting have always been lower than stock.

I would love to go low, don't get me wrong, but some of the farm tracks to get to some of the more remote surf spots have some more 'off-road' type parts lol

  • 2 months later...

well im looking at jumping on the bandwagon for my 32R, going to BC BR with std 8/6 springs, car mostly used on street and looking to start doing bit more track

looks like JJR is the best choice in sydney

also looks like its available in two options, rubber mounts or pillowball mounts - anyone care to comment on noise level?

FYI - Had mine on a shock dyno after some track work as one had bled down after lack of use and they both tested perfectly... The rebound etc was all surprisingly good and close to being a perfectly matched set! So for a cheapie they seem to be a winner!

FYI - Had mine on a shock dyno after some track work as one had bled down after lack of use and they both tested perfectly... The rebound etc was all surprisingly good and close to being a perfectly matched set! So for a cheapie they seem to be a winner!

What spring rates do you run on the track and how do they feel on the street?

FYI - Had mine on a shock dyno after some track work as one had bled down after lack of use and they both tested perfectly... The rebound etc was all surprisingly good and close to being a perfectly matched set! So for a cheapie they seem to be a winner!

Do you have a graph from the dyno?

  • Like 1

well im looking at jumping on the bandwagon for my 32R, going to BC BR with std 8/6 springs, car mostly used on street and looking to start doing bit more track

looks like JJR is the best choice in sydney

also looks like its available in two options, rubber mounts or pillowball mounts - anyone care to comment on noise level?

Go with the rubber mount. Pillowball is effectively solid mounting so not going to provide much vibration insulation to the body. Also pillowball is just another part to wear out.

  • 2 months later...

What spring rates do you run on the track and how do they feel on the street?

I was at 8F 6R and they were quite nice to drive on... Smoother than my old Tein setup...

The front sprint rate is closer to 12kg on mine now...

Do you have a graph from the dyno?

Nope, its in my file at Road2Race, it was a pretty even graph and seemed to respond well to adjustment, surprising what a cheapie can do i guess!

  • Like 2

I was at 8F 6R and they were quite nice to drive on... Smoother than my old Tein setup...

The front sprint rate is closer to 12kg on mine now...

I take you went to a 12kg front as the 8kg was a bit sloppy on the track?

How did that change the ride on the street?

I take you went to a 12kg front as the 8kg was a bit sloppy on the track?

How did that change the ride on the street?

Correct...

Its pretty firm now, i rarely use the car on the street these days so not too concerned :)

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I replaced the whole clutch line with the chase bays braided hose, I think it removes that loop, is it the short hose that comes immediately off the slave or is there a drawing in the manual to find what you’re referring to? It was just re-bled when I upgraded to the nismo slave, old slave worked fine but I thought that might help, didn’t change a thing. It’s like the first half of the pedal is pushing air and then when it finally actuates the master the friction zone is tiny. Makes it practically impossible to launch the car
    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
×
×
  • Create New...