Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Been running my BC RM's for about a year now. Good mix of daily, hills, track, and motorkhana.

Love 'em. They haven't missed a beat. I'd almost go as far as saying they're better than the Cuscos they replaced.

Have had the BR's in the car for a few weeks now and so far so good. Stiffer than my old hks's, so you feel the road a bit more which you get used to if you've had coilovers before. I've yet to test them on a track to see how they perform, cant wait. :thumbsup:

  • 3 months later...

just got a set of the BR's for my r33gtst. Quality/finish of them looks good. I was EXTREMELY sceptical of the 8/6 spring rate, as the tein superstreets in my ST185 Celica were rated much softer (can't remember exact rates, they are on tein site somewhere) and are stiff as hell, but I dunno, maybe BC use a different way of measuring their 8/6 rate lol, cause they definitely aren't harsh. I would put the feel of them about 20% stiffer than the stock suspension I had, with the damper adjustment 7 clicks from full softness on the BC's. So I've found them definitely streetable. Was going to get 6/4 spring rate but was cautioned against it by salesperson, and glad I didn't, would have been too soft.

It depends on the suspension design of each car as to what spring rates will work, you cant compare different spring rates on different cars...

just got a set of the BR's for my r33gtst. Quality/finish of them looks good. I was EXTREMELY sceptical of the 8/6 spring rate, as the tein superstreets in my ST185 Celica were rated much softer (can't remember exact rates, they are on tein site somewhere) and are stiff as hell, but I dunno, maybe BC use a different way of measuring their 8/6 rate lol, cause they definitely aren't harsh. I would put the feel of them about 20% stiffer than the stock suspension I had, with the damper adjustment 7 clicks from full softness on the BC's. So I've found them definitely streetable. Was going to get 6/4 spring rate but was cautioned against it by salesperson, and glad I didn't, would have been too soft.

  • 1 month later...

I've been running the BR series in my r33 gts-t for 12 months now. Done about 15,000km of city/ country road driving.

The justjap guy said the difference between the BR and the V1 (cheaper one) was a bigger diameter damper, he said if you were gonna track then a bigger volume shock wouldn't heat up as quick. That and the fancy gold instead of red. :-)

Had no dramas, they are pretty stiff springs but the damping adjustment range is huge. I tend to go between 10-15 depending on where i'm driving. Haven't gone below 20 as it rolls around too much for my liking.

Mine did start to squeak/ creak at the front but it's normal to go back and re-tighten new suspension anyway after a while.

I tightened the lower lockring (which hadn't budged, got maybe 1/16th of a turn in) and did the same for the upper 2 lockrings. (got maybe 1/4 turn in). Also tightened top mounts too and all noise disappeared. So if anyone else having noise issues get in there with spanners and make sure everything is tight!

im thinking of geting a set of BC BR coilovers for my r32 gtr, would the standard 8kg/6kg spring rates be way too harsh for sydney roads? would the dampening on softest setting be ok for daily driving then turned to stiffer for mountain runs etc? or should i opt for 6kg/4kg spring rates?

im currently running nismo s-tune coilovers, damper adjustable but not height adjustable, i want to lower the car abit more so these need to go soon....

any info of spring rates/damper settings and how it rides on normal roads would be great !

thanks

thanks

i think the nismo coilovers i have now are about 6/4 spring rates and i run them max stiff on the damper adjustments (only has 4 way adjustments) and thats fine for sydney roads lol

might go with the 8/6 rates and just fine tune the damper settings :)

dont run your V1's at lowest dampening. i thought this too as it would be softer, but they bounce thru the wayward stupid roads too much that way. i found stiffening the dampers actually made for a much nicer ride, 10 at the front 8 at the rear (from zero) they are a little more harsh on sudden hits and pot holes, but they arent to hard to avoid if your watching the road.

  • 2 weeks later...

I've been running the BR series in my r33 gts-t for 12 months now. Done about 15,000km of city/ country road driving.

The justjap guy said the difference between the BR and the V1 (cheaper one) was a bigger diameter damper, he said if you were gonna track then a bigger volume shock wouldn't heat up as quick. That and the fancy gold instead of red. :-)

Had no dramas, they are pretty stiff springs but the damping adjustment range is huge. I tend to go between 10-15 depending on where i'm driving. Haven't gone below 20 as it rolls around too much for my liking.

Mine did start to squeak/ creak at the front but it's normal to go back and re-tighten new suspension anyway after a while.

I tightened the lower lockring (which hadn't budged, got maybe 1/16th of a turn in) and did the same for the upper 2 lockrings. (got maybe 1/4 turn in). Also tightened top mounts too and all noise disappeared. So if anyone else having noise issues get in there with spanners and make sure everything is tight!

Hay mate could you provide me the contact to the guy that said that ^ or just ask for me - if the V1s give you more coilover to rim clearance over the bigger piston BRs...

Or if they have slightly different mounting mounts, so effectively the clearance is the same even though the diameters are different.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Huh, wonder why it blew then. I never really beat on the car THAT hard lol I dailyed it and the turbo blew after 6 months
    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
×
×
  • Create New...