Jump to content
SAU Community

Which Way Does The Crank Angle Sensor Go Back In On Rb25 Det Please Help Me Working On It As I Speak


Recommended Posts

hey guys i just pulled out my cas to have a look at it casue i got missfire probs and i put it back in assuming it only goes one way and i cant get a reading of 10 deg btdc with timing light the cas wont spin anymore anti clockwise

please help me asap cheers

yeah i just put it in how i got it out ! it can only slot in one way right ?

i cant get 10 deg btdc it wont spin anti clockwise anymore

i just did the waterpump on my rb20 is the 25 the same setup with the cas? if so all i did was scribe around the nuts b4 i took it off and the pinion in the middle was half moon only goes one way... also around the cas input it has teeth so it was fairly straight forward...

You need to know what the static timing at idle the ECU is set to deliver. Your tuner might have set it at something out of the ordinary, so it needs to be set at that.

Now... if you know the static idle is 10,15 or 20 degrees and still can't get the correct timing, then the problem is the configuration of the CAS trigger angle, and that trigger will need to be altered.

If you told us what type of ECU it would help.

Also, keep in mind that if you do correct the Trigger settings for the ECU, and get the correct ignition at idle again (15-20BTDC optimal)... then chances are you will have to have your ignition maps fixed too, as altering the main trigger detection angle alters the base calculations for all your ignition maps.

In other words... drive it and potentially have an expensive BANG!

Use caution and seek expert advice if your not sure.

all i done was pulled it out and went to put it back in an then wanted to change the ignition timing to 10 instead of 5 like it was originally

i am runnin a link ecu

i just wana get it back in thr right loction i set the advance limit back to zero on hand controller and i cant get it past 5 the cas wont go anti clock wise anymore please tell me wat to do

cheers

all i done was pulled it out and went to put it back in an then wanted to change the ignition timing to 10 instead of 5 like it was originally

i am runnin a link ecu

i just wana get it back in thr right loction i set the advance limit back to zero on hand controller and i cant get it past 5 the cas wont go anti clock wise anymore please tell me wat to do

cheers

Is there a half moon key in the camshaft and the CAS?

HI mate, i think i can help

Do you have timing light? always check timing before removal so as to have same performance afterwards.! for next time.

.

1. re fit cas aligning the half moon carefully ( as they can break off) if it does leave it in the cas.

2. grab timing light connect it to your loop wire near ignition module at top rear of engine above coils.

point in direction of timing marker. If u cannot see markers follow on to next step

3. grab a mate or girlfriend and get them to slowly open the spring face of magnetic pick up (on loop wire) while you are still watching timing marks. you will notice that the marks now align with 5deg markers increments. use your under bonnet stickers as guide for factroy ECU timing.

Aftermarket you will need to get engine warm interface with ECU read what base timing is once car is warm set to to this. you will need to rev engine and hold at 1500 or less to make sure that ecu reads same as timing marks.

3a if having trouble another way to get no1 timing is to remove valley cover and connect timing pick up to centre wire of 3 ( just more hassle on some cars)

i hope this is not to late

all i done was pulled it out and went to put it back in an then wanted to change the ignition timing to 10 instead of 5 like it was originally

i am runnin a link ecu

i just wana get it back in thr right loction i set the advance limit back to zero on hand controller and i cant get it past 5 the cas wont go anti clock wise anymore please tell me wat to do

cheers

most ecu's have lock timing with 10-15 deg this is used to set timing.

I would prefer if you set everything to way it was.

read what timing the hand controller is saying hope fully it reads 15-20deg

follow the previous post .

im online all day today to help guide you through.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gday   on the hunt for an rb25 gearbox and clutch to go into my R32 rb25/30 build happy to travel a bit or pay for freight for the right one From my limited research, think I need an rb25 driveshaft yoke to make it fit so I’m after one of those too located Bathurst
    • Common for single gauges to be swapped around. My 33 GTST when I bought it had a GTR tacho fitted, everything else was GTST gauges.
    • Google says for a 1998 Nissan Maxima to pull/pry, and the metal pin might even come out with it. I'd do a bit more googling, there was a few videos, find some where the shafts/needles appear most similar and compare the techniques.
    • Details: Turbo Borg Warner EFR 9180 with 1.05 rear housing Upgraded TurboSmart integrated BOV Sanded and powdercoated compressor cover in gloss black Elbow welded with wiggins clamp Speed Sensor(Not included) (Can include oil drain(heat wrapped + titanium intake pipe with almost new filter for a tad extra). Manifold: 6 Boost RB26/30 twin scroll manifold  e-MAP ports drilled into both scrolls(I was using the TAARKS EMAP KIT) Turbo is in excellent condition. Always used Penrite 15w50 Racing oil(Changed less then 2000ks). Also using the Turbosmart OP regulator and filter. Downpipe: 4inch Stainless steel with VBand inlet and outlet clamps(included) Heat wrapped Dual ports for Dyno/Wideband usage Will throw in free 2.5 inch intercooler pipe(2.5inch From turbo outlet to 3.5 inch intercooler) - Powder coated black. Turbo made 563rwkw on mainline hub dyno at around 24-25psi boost - Pump fuel. Will def make over 600kw on e85. Didn't bother as my e-MAP was through the roof with my setup sitting past the choke line. I have a cnc ported and fully built head on my 3.2. Turbine speed saw max of around 109k rpm. I'm running this on my R32 GTR, with AC, and the original power steering pump. The manifold clears the AC lines, ABS, and everything else. Although I had new AC lines because I just wanted new ones and I heat wrapped them as well. This will make more power on a slightly lower capacity motor with a higher PR. And I have since upgraded to a G45-1500. Have pics and videos if need be.  Absolutely nothing wrong with setup. Turbo is in perfect condition. No shaft play or oil leaks at all. All the work was professionally done. The transient response of this is fkn amazing. I cannot rave more about this turbo. If I wasn't chasing 4 figures, I would have kept it. $5000 NZ. Located: Auckland, New Zealand.    
    • I particularly like the look of the John Player Special team. (Thumbnail isn't different but hit play for the clip)  
×
×
  • Create New...