Jump to content
SAU Community

Anyone interested in a Sydney Group Buy on Window Tinting ?


Recommended Posts

thats a very nice "PC" way to put it bman...."That said - SAU does not condone illegal modifications or activities" i didint think thered be much of an issue with a 14yr old commy...bring on tha tint. n e idea when to expect a ball park figure? then i can definitely be in....or maybe ill use my track day refund :rofl:

  • Replies 222
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I am just about to get mine done at Solace. But will pay up to get this done if he comes out to me (mobile service) at the Eastern Suburbs. But I was booked in to have it done at Solace next week so for me this has got to happen soon.

mzgtst - sorry I missed you out - you are on the list now

raz0r - mate we are gonna get a good deal with 23 cars ! :(

 

CS_180 - 1996 I understand

 

Jimbo - see my thoughts below

 

MrExa - darkest tint is 5% - way illegal , SAU don't condone this, but he will do it :spank:

 

Oh and I think mirror tint is available too - I'll check it out.

 

The place is in Nth Ryde / Ryde area - but there is another location too - and also he has a mobile service - obvioulsy cheaper if we go to him -  

 

My Skyline took about 1 hr and I waited and chatted to him whilst he did it - Nice guy.

 

OK - this is way more popular than I thought it would be - 23 cars - Which is a good thing.

 

First I thought we could organise a day where we could all go down at a pre-arranged and scheduled times - but since we now have 23 interested cars, I dont think this will be possible

 

So...

 

I will propose that we do like a voucher type system.

 

I will go to him and get prices for the group buy -  

 

If the price is good and you guys are still keen, you get the $$ to the tint ppl  OR me (if you trust me :) ) and I'll go down and get 23 (or whatever) vouchers that will entitle you to get your tint done on the vehicle specified. I'll see that the certificates are valid for like 30-45 days - so you all have a month or so to book in a time and day to get your tint done.

 

If this is all agreeable - then I'll take expressions of interest and payments for 2 weeks then close the deal.

 

After the 2 weeks I'll get all the certificates and mail them to you.

 

I'll get details of the tints and types of films available when I negotiate the deal.

 

BTW - I will be pushing for an EXTRA discount for SAU-NSW members - there may be an extra saving of $20 or something there.

 

So if you want to join the club - do so now and we'll see if we can get an extra heavy duty good deal for you !

 

Anyway - they are my thoughts - it may change after I speak to them....

I can trust you moite

quality work sunshine

Yeah, I think it would be infintely easier to get all the money to B-Man and he can sort it out...

Otherwise we have to rely on people calling the tinter with their details and blah blah blah... Too hard basket. It'll take too long.

Cool - that's 25 cars.

I'll be calling around tomorrow. So I'll post back when I get some number$.

Yeah - I mentioned getting $$ to the tinter guy - incase some folks didn't trust me for whatever reason.

I would agree though that if you all got your $$ to me , it would be administratvely easier all round. So I think we'll go this way - You guys should all know me by now to know that I won't skip the country...

justinfox - I don't think we will be ready for you mate - sorry - So I see that you have two choices - keep the Solace appt - or cancel it and wait for us. Depends what you want to do - BTW Nice car - I saw the pics in your wheels for sale thread - Nice wheels too - I wish I could afford them , they would look hot on my Silver R33. - Sorry, I digress. Whoreing my own threadi WTF :(

Ok peeps - stay tuned ! :)

Guys - you can still get in on this if you want (of course depending on pricing)

OK - I spoke to my guy today.

Tosh - He can do a secure tint film - but it has limitations in terms of shades - ie he can't do super super (5%) tints - only 38% (darkest legal).

Yes - he can do Mirror Tint for rear quaters etc

What we need to do now is complile a list of who wants what and more importantly if there is existing tint on your car.

They do 38% (Darkest Legal), 28%, 18% & 5% - Cybertint range (ie More matt black than shiny)

Also - 38% & 15% in the Quantum Range (more refelective than Cybertint)

I have 18% (Cybertint) on my R33 if anyone has seen it - for a comparison.

All film is Metal Film

All film has a lifetime warranty.

I now need to get him a list - and he will give me a price.

Post back here if you already have tint - and/or you have any special requirements. (eg Secure Film or Reflective Tint)

NP Tosh - but is getting new Plenum & new TB on this week so I'll let you know when I get it back.

I'll be keen for a cuise ASAP after I get it back anyhoo - bring on 24PSI yeah baby !

b man, sorry to be difficult, but id like to know the difference between the matt blackand the shiny prices, 38% only, for a VN commodore. you can put me down for all windows (bar the front), 38%, now its just a matter of pricing to decide which type

i have no issues with pre-payment either (esp as it seems there is not much that ure new car still needs :)

thanks bman

ive changed mine to 18%...i thought 38 was darker then 5....wrong direction

I think the prices are the same - just the finish is different.

I'll be getting prices ASAP. I'll try to get photos too.

But since prices may be the same - you can decide on the day.

Rgds

Cool. How dark is 18%? Is that like limo spec? I want mine pretty dark :wassup: and legality is not my prime concern. Protecting my skin, security, and looks are my main issues. :)

I currently have tint on my rear quarter windows only. Only thing is, I am going over-seas on 31st of this month so mid-late feb will be the only time I can do this. Is that ok?

Thanks B-man.

Richard

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
    • A lot of what you said there are fair observations and part of why I made that list, to make some of these things (like no advantage between the GSeries and GSeries II at PR2.4 in a lot of cases) however I'm not fully convinced by other comments.  One thing to bare in mind is that compressor flow maps are talking about MASS flow, in terms of the compressor side you shouldn't end up running more or less airflow vs another compressor map for the same advertised flow if all external environmental conditions are equivalent if the compressor efficiency is lower as that advertised mass flow takes that into consideration.   Once the intercooler becomes involved the in-plenum air temperature shouldn't be that different, either... the main thing that is likely to affect the end power is the final exhaust manifold pressure - which *WILL* go up when you run out of compressor efficiency when you run off the map earlier on the original G-Series versus G-Series II as you need to keep the gate shut to achieve similar airflow.    Also, how do you figure response based off surge line?  I've seen people claim that as an absolute fact before but am pretty sure I've seen compressors with worse surge lines actually "stand up" faster (and ironically be more likely to surge), I'm not super convinced - it's really a thing we won't easily be able to determine until people start using them.     There are some things on the maps that actually make me wonder if there is a chance that they may respond no worse... if not BETTER?!  which brings me to your next point... Why G2 have lower max rpm?  Really good question and I've been wondering about this too.  The maximum speed *AND* the compressor maps both look like what I'd normally expect if Garrett had extended the exducers out, but they claim the same inducer and exducer size for the whole range.   If you compare the speed lines between any G and G2 version the G2 speed lines support higher flow for the same compressor speed, kinda giving a pretty clear "better at pumping more air for the same speed" impression. Presumably the exducer includes any extended tip design instead of just the backplate, but nonetheless I'd love to see good pics/measurements of the G2 compressors as everything kinda points to something different about the exducer - specifically that it must be further out from the centerline, which means a lower rpm for the same max tip speed and often also results in higher pressure ratio efficiency, narrower maps, and often actually can result in better spool vs a smaller exducer for the same inducer size... no doubt partly due to the above phenomenon of needing less turbine speed to achieve the same airflow when using a smaller trim. Not sure if this is just camera angle or what, but this kinda looks interesting on the G35 990 compressor tips: Very interested to see what happens when people start testing these, and if we start getting more details about what's different.
×
×
  • Create New...