Jump to content
SAU Community

Anyone interested in a Sydney Group Buy on Window Tinting ?


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 222
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

does anyone know where i could go to look @ differnet types of tint? is ther any way on a car to determine how tinted they are? both our other cars are done, but they came factory...they both look diferent too

are both types legal? ...matt black and reflective?

thx bman

bren

Thanks for al the trouble your going to, you should hit this guy up to do one of your cars for free considering all the business your bringing his way (well at least at cost) :)

B-man, i have decided to rice up my car a little, do you know if the tinter you have in mind can do the flame effect in windows...silver flames on black background????

Thanks again

Friggin hell - silver flames ???? Huh ??

he he he he he

I know he can do girly stickers for your B piller - he he he

Dunno Roy - I think that would be a bit left field - but I'll ask OK !

I was trying to keep the packages all pretty basic and standard - to keep the costs down and consistant....

Dont mean to be a dumbass, but what is the difference between, Cybertint and Mirror Tint?

I am interested in getting some mirror/dark tint on my new r32 ;)

I dont want it to be a full on mirror reflection, coz i know that is totally illegal as per the rta website.

Also what price are we looking at?

If under 200 bucks i am very interested, just tell me time and place ;)

Flaps - Cybertint like matt - as in the photos above - Quantum is like more refelective - I'd suggest that you go down to your local Solace and check it out.

Jas - the timetable looks like this.

Finalise and agree pricing this week.

Take orders and $$ for next 2 weeks after this - cut off after 2 weeks, whoever has paid gets a voucher.

Vouchers valid for 30-60 days after this , so you can book in anytime that suits.

**Note** all subject to the agreement of the tint guy.

*UPDATE* - the fax I sent yesterday went thru but the kwality was bad- so I have sent all the details via e-mail - Should have something back tomorrow.

All those who are still interested and haven't made a choice on tint type and tint shade, please do so as it will speed things up.

Thanks all !

still might have 3 cars in it for ya, just need to see prices first... :rolleyes:

I'd go for the darkest legal one i can have on R32 GTS-t (ie pre 94 limits)... I think i'd go the more reflective one too... that's the quantum isn't it?....

The other 2 cars, not sure but can ask when i get a price... :)

Update:

Spoke to tint guy - he is super busy and will get back to us Tuesday next week with the price.

Yes, I said price (singular) - It's too hard to work out prices for everyone's individual cars (ie 2-door, 4-door, this tint, that tint) So, he's decided to just give us one price for what ever we want (per car, within reason - sorry Roy, no flames)

* Note this excludes 4WDs - so we'll get a diff price for these.

Thanks for being patient.

that sounds mad b-man...u r a champ....

i hope u r scoring a better deal than the rest of us, just for all tha trouble u r going 2

btw, how nice would todays weather have been @ EC? ah well, maybe next time

cheers

brendan

Guys,

Just checked RTA site, you can refer to the following link re: window tinting legality.

Basically:

- No mirror or reflective tinting allowed;

- Darkest tint is 35% VLT (ie: 35% of the light gets in)

- Date this limit is imposed is from 1 August 1994.

So if your car is tinted after 1/8/94, you have to apply the 35% rule.

This info is current as at July 2003

Page 2 & 3 are the relevant ones.

http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/dow.../vsi03_rev3.pdf

If the tint is put on after 1/8/94 (regardless of the year model of the car) its got to comply witht he 35% rule.

If your car is older, and you put on tint now, I guess they wouldnt know, and you wouldnt tell them :) , but you could probably tell its new tint anyway. It explains it in the link above.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
    • A lot of what you said there are fair observations and part of why I made that list, to make some of these things (like no advantage between the GSeries and GSeries II at PR2.4 in a lot of cases) however I'm not fully convinced by other comments.  One thing to bare in mind is that compressor flow maps are talking about MASS flow, in terms of the compressor side you shouldn't end up running more or less airflow vs another compressor map for the same advertised flow if all external environmental conditions are equivalent if the compressor efficiency is lower as that advertised mass flow takes that into consideration.   Once the intercooler becomes involved the in-plenum air temperature shouldn't be that different, either... the main thing that is likely to affect the end power is the final exhaust manifold pressure - which *WILL* go up when you run out of compressor efficiency when you run off the map earlier on the original G-Series versus G-Series II as you need to keep the gate shut to achieve similar airflow.    Also, how do you figure response based off surge line?  I've seen people claim that as an absolute fact before but am pretty sure I've seen compressors with worse surge lines actually "stand up" faster (and ironically be more likely to surge), I'm not super convinced - it's really a thing we won't easily be able to determine until people start using them.     There are some things on the maps that actually make me wonder if there is a chance that they may respond no worse... if not BETTER?!  which brings me to your next point... Why G2 have lower max rpm?  Really good question and I've been wondering about this too.  The maximum speed *AND* the compressor maps both look like what I'd normally expect if Garrett had extended the exducers out, but they claim the same inducer and exducer size for the whole range.   If you compare the speed lines between any G and G2 version the G2 speed lines support higher flow for the same compressor speed, kinda giving a pretty clear "better at pumping more air for the same speed" impression. Presumably the exducer includes any extended tip design instead of just the backplate, but nonetheless I'd love to see good pics/measurements of the G2 compressors as everything kinda points to something different about the exducer - specifically that it must be further out from the centerline, which means a lower rpm for the same max tip speed and often also results in higher pressure ratio efficiency, narrower maps, and often actually can result in better spool vs a smaller exducer for the same inducer size... no doubt partly due to the above phenomenon of needing less turbine speed to achieve the same airflow when using a smaller trim. Not sure if this is just camera angle or what, but this kinda looks interesting on the G35 990 compressor tips: Very interested to see what happens when people start testing these, and if we start getting more details about what's different.
×
×
  • Create New...