Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i was looking at some steel braided water and oil lines that they sell on ebay for the rb26dett..

i want to buy this for making uninstall and install of turbo's easier..

what i still cant understand is from where to where exacly will these lines replace?

for the oil lines.. will it replace from block till turbo directly? or from block to the adapter that is bolted at the turbo with the 2 10mm bolts?

the water lines.. will it replace from block till turbo directly? or from block to the adapter? and then from turbo directly to the hard pipe that runs above the turbo manifold and along the head? or will it replace the full water hard pipes that run along the head?

anyone have pictures of these lines fitted?

thanks in advance

Well which ebay ones are you talking about?

You would have to ask the supplier what lines are replaced in their kit. No-one here will be able to tell you unless they have purchased the exact same one really.

Well which ebay ones are you talking about?

You would have to ask the supplier what lines are replaced in their kit. No-one here will be able to tell you unless they have purchased the exact same one really.

this is the oil line

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

and water lines

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

I bought some of these some months ago, however waiting to install them with turbos. Some of the fittings don't look all crash hot so if I use them I will ask for someone to supply speedflow fittings (which will defineatley bump up the price of this exercise).

I only did it because at the time I thought this would be better in the long run, as I have heard some people crimping lines during installation and not realising it till turbo blows etc.

I was really keen on braided lines as on my previous car, an s15, the water lines severed when the metal in the manifolds would expand/contract when heated but since ive been told that the gtr solid lines are very good and if you install a good, new turbo, you wont have to touch them.

if you have the spare money, then why not cos they do look nice but if your on a budget then probably not worth it.

I certainly wouldnt buy an unknown kit as you may destroy your engine/turbo/overheat etc.

Go for a trusted brand, even trust greddy oil filter relocation kits ive heard will leak. So speedflow fittings and maybe pirtek for lines would be the go? what other brands of braided lines are there?

i bought the ebay braided lines just for looks,

for the price there good but i had to buy 2 extra fitting which cost bout $20

they replace everyline except the top line that runs along the cam cover

the lines are a lot longer then they need to be aswell but can be made to look neat

i bought the ebay braided lines just for looks,

for the price there good but i had to buy 2 extra fitting which cost bout $20

they replace everyline except the top line that runs along the cam cover

the lines are a lot longer then they need to be aswell but can be made to look neat

ali-turko.... do you have some pics you can share?

Just so you all know:

Braided lines, either nylon lined or rubber lined- will not last as long as people might think... I do alot of work with hydralic/fuel/water lines in and around hot areas. 3-5 years is the max service life.

You can crimp braided lines easier than seel ones

You have many more potential areas for leaks or blockages... sepecially if they are cheap fittings.

The actual alluminium fittings will corrode together if subject to water

The rubber and nylon inserts will break down quite quickly if exposed to heat cycles...

Also, the orange "fire sleeve" you can buy is designed to be a direct flame retanrdant-- not a heat shield.

If you really need to change the solid lines, Trust and HKS both make them aftermarket- I'm fairly shure they are stainless steel too. Or bend your own set up from ally and use the aerquip flare tube nut and sleeve.

Use braided line with caution.

J.

i bought a set for my r33 gtr when it was std had to replace the t3 flange gasket so did all gaskets on turbo side while i was in there and put the braided lines back in.

now after a new engine multi time iv pulled the turbos on and off i dont regret it, they are worth every cent take turbo installation time down by half, i can rip turbos off and back on in 2 1/2 hours now.

went to replace a mates turbos in his r32 with re using stock lines was a hell of a job the time you waist in the std lines pays for the braided lines over.

Yeah I am running the oil/water ebay lines listed there on my rb30dett now, quality is actually decent for the price.

Bending the stock lines up for a rb30dett and keeping the shape is painful, hence I went this way.

Also as per ^^ removing the turbos now is so much easier. The extra length works on a rb30dett if you have one and are thinking about these.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very nice - I also have a 92 GTST and hardly see any others around these days
    • When I need something else to edit, I use Movavi. A friend who does video editing on a daily basis recommended me) it's an easy video cutter to use for beginners
    • I need to edit some videos for work but I'm not good at all this. Which video editor can you recommend?
    • I think you're really missing the point. The spec is just the minimum spec that the fuel has to meet. The additive packages can, and do, go above that minimum if the fuel brand feels they need/want to. And so you get BP Ultimate or Shell Ultra (or whatever they call it) making promises to clean your engine better than the standard stuff....simply because they do actually put better additive packages in there. They do not waste special sauce on the plebian fuel if they can avoid it. I didn't say "energy density". I just said "density". That's right, the specific gravity (if you want to use a really shit old imperial description for mass per unit volume). The density being higher indicates a number of things, from reduces oxygen content, to increased numbers of double bonds or cyclic components. That then just happens to flow on to the calorific value on a volume basis being correspondingly higher. The calorific value on a mass basis barely changes, because almost all hydrocarbon materials have a very similar CV per kg. But whatever - the end result is that you do get a bit more energy per litre, which helps to offset some of the sting of the massive price bump over 91. I can go you one better than "I used to work at a fuel station". I had uni lecturers who worked at the Pt Stanvac refinery (at the time they were lecturing, as industry specialist lecturers) who were quite candid about the business. And granted, that was 30+ years ago, and you might note that I have stated above that I think the industry has since collected together near the bottom (quite like ISPs, when you think about it). Oh, did I mention that I am quite literally a combustion engineer? I'm designing (well, actually, trying to avoid designing and trying to make the junior engineer do it) a heavy fuel oil firing system for a cement plant in fricking Iraq, this week. Last week it was natural gas fired this-that. The week before it was LPG fired anode furnaces for a copper smelter (well, the burners for them, not the actual furnaces, which are just big dumb steel). I'm kinda all over fuels.
    • Well my freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo went bang 1000kms in, completely fried big end bearing in cylinder 1 so bad my engine seized. No knocking or oil pressure issue prior to this happening, all happened within less than a second. Had Nitto oil pump, 8L baffled sump, head drain, oil restrictors, the lot put in to prevent me spinning a bearing like i did to need the rebuild. Mechanic that looked after the works has no idea what caused it. Reckoned it may have been bearing clearance wrong in cylinder 1 we have no idea. Machinist who did the work reckoned it was something on the mechanic. Anyway thats between them, i had no part in it, just paid the money Curiosity question, does the oil system on RB’s go sump > oil pump > filter > around engine? If so, if you had a leak on an oil filter relocation plate, say sump > oil pump > filter > LEAK > around engine would this cause a low oil pressure reading if the sensors was before the filter?   TIA
×
×
  • Create New...