Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I've currently got a KKR560 turbo on my R33, running at the limit of my stock injectors getting 220rwkw.

I'm planning to get Nismo 555 injectors and a Z32 AFM and a full retune of my powerFC, Gavin Woods said he would tune for 270kw as it's stock internals.

I'm sick of how laggy the car is, I swear I don't get full boost til 5000rpm, before that it doesn't have much, that's what i get for choosing such a cheap turbo :rofl:

Anyway, I had a good look through the Rb25 dyno results, but found that everybody's setups were so different, that I couldn't really compare, so I thought I'd just ask and get an opinion.

My aim is around 275rwkw. What's the most responsive turbo to do this, as that is my goal.

Alternatively, if there is a much more responsive option, that will only get me to 250kw, i would love to hear about that, or if there is a equally-laggy 300kw option, that would be good too!

Once i've got the suggestions, I can do my usual forum searching and googling and see if it's what i'm after

Thanks guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319375-r33-gts-t-turbo-recommendation/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 139
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

but isn't the thing stopping you getting to 270kw your injectors, not your turbo?

I run a kkr480, it made 250kw @16psi, also injector limited.

sounds like you have the right size turbo for your target. but yes an old style bush bearing turbo will always be 500rpm laggier than the ball bearing equivalent. that's why the BB one is between 2 and 5 times the cost.

Yea, the turbo could easily boost me to 300kw, i am positive of that :rofl:

That was my original plans, z32 AFM, injectors and a retune with current turbo to get 270, gav said that would be easy, and the most power i should run with stock engine

Then i realised how laggy it already is, and if i'm spending all this money on a tune and parts, it's already > $2000, so maybe I should get a turbo i actually like?

If we are only talking about 500rpm difference, that's definitely not worth it, i was under the impression that it would be alot more responsive than that?

If you want just the turbo - GT3071 without question.

The KKR550 sadly (as you've found), its not the most responsive turbo :rofl:

They make power, yes, however they don't do it with decent response that you would get from a better designed (and more expensive) turbo.

what boost tho? the 3076 will do same power and response times... but less psi needed to make same power.

Ive had both type of turbos on rb25's so bit of experience with them.

My 3071R was a AVO or ATP style rear housing to bolt up to skyline dump. mounted lowmount and made 280 rwkw on 20 psi.. i then ran cams and made same power on 17 psi and spooled earlier.

currently have 3076 but with garret rear and ex gate, full boost at 3500 and makes 310 rwkw on 17-18 psi, stock cams.

I'd definitely prefer internal wastegate if possible, so much easier to install and i feel like there is less chance of me getting defected...

Obviously I'd check out SAU sponsors, is there anywhere else i should be looking when trying to find prices for HKS and Garrett turbos?

You guys have been so helpful, thanks alot! I was expecting a spamming of "do a frikkin search" or the like :thumbsup:

Isaac

depending on your budget i wouldnt worry about a 2nd hand HSK turbo. just grab a new garret and set it all up nicely and it will be a good thing.

you can get the 3076 with garret IW also.. this would be a good turbo if you wanted to retain the internal gate

I think i might be getting a 3071 as well, im over my bush-bearing highflow! like what you guys said to me 2 years ago! "your always gona want more power" so now its to get a bigger turbo!, Also the 3071, how big is the rear on it?

but isn't the thing stopping you getting to 270kw your injectors, not your turbo?

I run a kkr480, it made 250kw @16psi, also injector limited.

sounds like you have the right size turbo for your target. but yes an old style bush bearing turbo will always be 500rpm laggier than the ball bearing equivalent. that's why the BB one is between 2 and 5 times the cost.

not exactly.

But i agree compared to the kkr stuff there are far more responsive gear.

i'd go a 3076 with a .64 rear to be honest. will spool the same as a 3071 and make more top end power. can be lowmounted on stock manifold also.

How can a turbo with larger wheels spool the same as that of a turbo with smaller wheels?

I would have to say, bang for buck, go a hypergear high-flow, G3 profile and power-up option. Good for around 280rwkw+. Go to the Hypergear site and also the Hypergear thread on here (SAU) and check out some dyno printouts and compare them to other similar setups. As far as useable power go's - for a street application - they are pretty hard to beat when you consider response and all that stuff. Also, considering they are a thrust bearing CHRA they spool nearly or just as quick as the garret equivelant (GT 3071). The proof is in the dyno read outs. They will never hold power to redline due to the Nissan housing(s) used, however, used in conjuction with R33 box and diff ratio's i can see this kind of set-up being very formidable on the street (outright power is not always everything)

Otherwise if you have deep pockets go a HKS (like a GT-RS or GT-sports kit) or Trust (something like a TD06S-20G). I have seen some very responsive results with these turbos on dyno sheets.

I would have to say, bang for buck, go a hypergear high-flow, G3 profile and power-up option. Good for around 280rwkw+. Go to the Hypergear site and also the Hypergear thread on here (SAU) and check out some dyno printouts and compare them to other similar setups. As far as useable power go's - for a street application - they are pretty hard to beat when you consider response and all that stuff. Also, considering they are a thrust bearing CHRA they spool nearly or just as quick as the garret equivelant (GT 3071). The proof is in the dyno read outs. They will never hold power to redline due to the Nissan housing(s) used, however, used in conjuction with R33 box and diff ratio's i can see this kind of set-up being very formidable on the street (outright power is not always everything)

Otherwise if you have deep pockets go a HKS (like a GT-RS or GT-sports kit) or Trust (something like a TD06S-20G). I have seen some very responsive results with these turbos on dyno sheets.

dont most of the hypergear stuf like the atr43 renge use .70 a/r comp cover. what size is the standard one

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks! Will get it looked at before winter 🥶 other than that she's a mint ride love it aye 
    • FWIW a lot of the local owners that do a big build tend to have cars that are perpetually broken. 
    • I just got this system but haven’t installed yet I got a Moroso sealed box (defect reasons) which will be set up same as their pic The quality is high grade, the correspondence I had with the owner (former head designer for Rockford Fosgate) was unbelievable, guiding me with what I needed. Even told me not to buy some things as it could be sorted in a different way at his loss. Just a bit of a bite with the exchange rate and don’t purchase gear in 1 hit that goes over $1,000 au, lol I forgot!  
    • Thanks mate for that reply. Very helpful.    it’s a 2022 400R so would most likely lose those features as you say.     I did a quick compare of a rv37 nav and heading for sale in Japan to q50 model. I’ll pop pics below. Seems  Japan spec head into top, nav unit second below it   below pic Q50 aud delivered     differences seem to be Aus delivered has a different plug top left hand side of head unit- not sure what and where it goes.   and nav unit Japanese tv37 had an extra plug put    Again I’m really not sure what each of these differences mean!       the actual plugs on a v37 and q50 screens look identical on both screens… pics below for comparing. (One screen was is a us delivered one) but should be same gps signals etc as Australia.    If it were as simple as swapping a nav unit from q50 aud delivered im interested -just want to figure out what the missing plug is for before spending big $ on a second hand part for it to not work, and I guess with the head unit, if the band expander does the job (I got a 20mHz so should get the range I’m after) so should narrow my issue down to nav unit only.  I’d love to know what the extra cable on rv37 does and if I eliminate that part what it’ll do to the setup,    and also, if I can figure out what that head unit plug difference is, what does that cable do and where does it got can it be altered or re-plugged?! Excuse my ignorance what is ACP/AA, what does that stand for? (Apple car play? Android air play)? so If I swapped head units to save using a band expander, I’d likely lose those better features to have an oem Unit operational. Better to use a band expander and retain AirPlay options and newer version of head unit     provably best to band expand it, and focus on the nav unit. th isn’t  a big deal/ would be cool to have it working  from what I can tel we use a PAL Signal and Japan uses a NTSC signal  I don’t know if there’s a co better or if the screen only reads NTSC, or if it’s the tv module that needs replacing… no big deal don’t need it but more of a curiosity thing on that!   Thanks for the info re tyre sensors, helpful and great to know.  I was reading the online manual off Japan website and it seemed to make it sound more confusing than it is  I guess a rim replacement would require the sensors to be moved to a new rim to carry that option over?!     Thanks for the info regarding diagnostic mode. I appreciate your help mate. Trying to brainstorm here to find a solution to get as much gadgets as I can working! I plan to get my local Nissan tech to have a look too who used to be at an Infiniti dealer back in the day to see if any thing they have or idea can find a soliton. But hoping anyone here has gone down the same route to make life easier!!   i guess identifying the cable/plug differences and what they do would be a great way of finding out if the units are transferable    thanks again 
    • No idea about the remote start part. If the V37 nav is anything like other Nissan JDM vehicles, you can't get the factory Japanese nav working in australia, a card from a different car almost certainly won't work, those cards are usually matched to the serial number of the DCU.  You could be possibly swap out the components from a AuDM Q50 to get it working, but if this is a new model (2021+) 400R, then you will lose the newer features like ACP/AA.  That said, if you have ACP/AA, just use google maps.. I assume a band expander would be required to get the local radio stations, but don't forget the Japanese FM band is narrower than ours, so you still might not be able to receive all Australian stations. I can't see any reason the tyre pressure sensors won't work here, there is the sensor unit inside the rim and the receiver nearby in the wheel well.  I have never had to change the batteries on my 2015 Q50, so I assume they last quite a while.  A straight battery change shouldn't need them to be re-registered as they are the same unit, that should only be required if you replace a sensor with a new one.   Word of warning, if you ever go into the 'secret' diagnostics mode on the main screen, DO NOT EVER do a 'reset' in this menu, it will erase all of your model specific data in the DCU and you will need a trip to a dealer to re-program it all, which would be particularly painful being an import.  This applies to the AuDM Q50 too.
×
×
  • Create New...