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By TurboTapin · Posted
What do you mean by "Signal and power from battery to the single post" ? You should only have one 12VDC power cable from battery to stud on the starter and your start signal to the spade for a total of two wires to your starter. Your block also needs to be properly grounded. -
By Prof_Finesser · Posted
Hello again I'm having an issue with the starter not wanting to crank I have a wiring Specialties harness for r32 and I believe I have it set up right I have the signal and power from the battery going to the single post and then the start spade connector. I made sure I had 12v on the starter post and it does and Im not sure what else to do. I turn the key the only thing I hear is the injectors and fuel pump. Any info is appreciated. I put the install guide link https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9F33_M_GgENUHJyMnpaRlk1Yzg -
Put up photos of the crimps you're planning to use. Let us critique them 😛 But seriously post them up before you use them -
By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted
I want to see crimps better than what would be minimum standard for the now dated International Space Station. Street GT-Rs now have better wiring than Space X Falcon Heavies -
By joshuaho96 · Posted
Make sure the radiator fan shroud is on and in good condition. Make sure all the radiator guides are in place. Make sure your intercooler isn't restricting too much airflow to the radiator. Change your coolant out for a 30/70 glycol/water mixture instead of the normal factory recommended 50/50. Make sure your radiator is halfway decent, so not Mishimoto. Make sure your fan clutch is functioning properly. If you have the factory oil/coolant heat exchanger a larger oil cooler or better ducting can help take the load off the cooling system. If your tune pulls out way too much timing to achieve the power figures that it does and the pressure peak is happening well after TDC turn down the boost. Less thermal efficiency means more of that heat is going into your coolant and engine oil instead of the wheels. E85 would likely help a lot in this situation as it naturally has more water dissolved in it and the combustion of alcohol releases a lot more water than gasoline. I would also recommend doing some temperature logging of various fluid temperatures. Rear differential, transmission, transfer case, front differential, power steering fluid. Gear oil shouldn't exceed ~140C. If it is getting too close for comfort you might need to consider some method of cooling it off better. Keep in mind that these systems are kind of all interconnected. The oil pan holds the front diff for example and keeping the engine oil cool will help cool the front diff in turn.
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