Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

does anyone know where to buy a minispool for a R32 GTST?

what specs do I need to look out for and will the same mini spool fit any other cars? ie.. do I look for a R31 mini spool or something.

Cheers

Dan

Sell you a new diff cheap :thumbsup:

I thought the 32 had a borg warner :S

Was just thinking that if I weld it, if the welding breaks I will be stuck on the side of the road.

So should I just shim it up? I just want it to be predictable.. at the moment it reverts from twins to singles and it snaps back and piss's me off. Also picks up a tyre through a corner and spins it and Cant get the power to the ground evenly.

Edited by BANGN
I thought the 32 had a borg warner :S

Was just thinking that if I weld it, if the welding breaks I will be stuck on the side of the road.

So should I just shim it up? I just want it to be predictable.. at the moment it reverts from twins to singles and it snaps back and piss's me off. Also picks up a tyre through a corner and spins it and Cant get the power to the ground evenly.

and if you put anything in that has the same effect as a minispool has a chance of breaking axels so either way... your stuck on the side of the road...

and if you put anything in that has the same effect as a minispool has a chance of breaking axels so either way... your stuck on the side of the road...

Spool on weld can break axles , welds can break resulting in pinion ,crownwheel damage or launch shit out off housing :(

Can only shim clutch type diffs, most basic Nissan use Viscous diffs.

Aslyls S14 Racecar has been on a welded GTR diff without problems. GTR is easy as you can weld the clutch plates so if the weld fails it just goes back to normal GTR LSD, If you weld other types you need to weld the spider gears and when they break shit goes everywhere.

There is a tutorial in the DIY area of the forums with a guy shimming an R33 diff.

Fairly sure R32 would be similar, he's posted step by step photos and price lists for the shims as well.

I think 3.2mm (two 1.6mm shims together) is tight enough to chirp tyres while parrallel parking etc.

It will wear out eventually but should last for a good while.

I'm sure someone of your mechanical aptitude (aren't you a tradie?) could do it at work for the price of the shims/diff oil/gaskets etc :yes:

Don't weld it up/put a minispool in. I found with my old locker in early RX7, rainy days actually required me to get sideways to go around certain corners. It's easy too do because it's so predictable but would hate to have a cop around when you have to do it.

Edited by dave_rb20

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Right, but that's in-cylinder, there's the interaction between that and the TWC which complicates things. Pulling out timing to reduce NOx is a strategy I saw in transitional emissions vehicles like stuff from 1974 or so. The two inlet runner system is interesting but I'm not sure it makes a huge difference as far as emissions goes, is it a tumble valve? I've seen stuff like that even in cars from the late 80s. 
    • Hello all,   so i recently swapped out my rb20de neo with an rb25de neo( engine,transmission, wiring and the diff everything) but i just cant get the gear indication light on the dash to work when i switch to tiptronic mode. Note there is a steering wheel switch beside the shifter and i dont have that. I did notice yesterday while switching to tiptronic that the indicator on the dash started to work but it didn't afterwards. Does anyone know how this actually works? Or do i still need that steering wheel switch to be connected and on for that gear indicator to work?
    • Hence why I said earlier that I don't think the turbo Neos ever would have actually qualified as an LEV. I suspect the only actual LEVs that came out of Nissan were the NA Neos. Still call them all Neos. They all stil have the Neo-ness. Just that they don't all qualify as as LEVs.
    • It will give gains, but you wont hit 600 It will give gains but it wont get you to 600 imo. You will also sacrifice low down and you will be adding extra volume if you port match it, more so if you port the plenum runners depending and how its done I think the only time youre going to see about 100hp gains is if the car is making well over 1k kw I do have a spare set that I was going to test with, but i dont actually think there is anything worth getting going larger. I did a fair few S14/S15 and the standard TB is fairly small, I went to 60 and in some cases 64mm which is significant over the stock unit. You can also get some weird ratio changes. I think 20kw will be a stretch on a roller dyno. If I had it apart I might mill the shafts a little and not expect much, I think the stock size is still pretty good for a street/track car even with larger capacity. I might change diameter it if its a drag only car
    • Was going to say something about flog, wife, pilates, behind but I better not... No dishonour here
×
×
  • Create New...