Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just curious to see what your water temp is guys i have just flushed the system put a new thermostat in and ran new fluids through it..

the car sits around 90 degrees which i think is a lil high because the thermostat is a 79 degree one

the old thermostat was 65 degree one which must off been aftermarket because i have not been able to source the same one so i went with the standard

what temp should i be getting or is this ok ??

also what type coolant do you use ??

i am using nulon red long life premix

does any one no what the recomended coolant to run is like product number or code???

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319437-what-water-temp-do-you-have/
Share on other sites

Nissan LLC, we sell it at nissan and its pretty cheap. Its a normal green one and your probily better off using it, also make sure your mix is 33% and not 50% as that is too think and pointless for australia and will not be as effective at cooling, doing a 33% mix over the 2 year change periods and you wont see any corrosion.

Nulons red last for 4 years and there green last for 5 years and are ok specifications too use. But the nissan stuff is as good as gold

temp last checked on a consult was 83 degrees

under what conditions are u getting 90degrees? or is it an average.....

cars with electric thermo fans (like pulsars), the thermos only turn on at something like 93 or so degrees and turn off again at 89.

my r32 with a rb30 on cruise on an average 25 degree day sits round 87 and under load it might go up to 105 (either on a hot day or long steep full throttle hills).

the temps i just mentioned were on a ecutalk display while my temp guage on the dash sits steady at half way.

p.s personally i would worry unless ur dash guage starts heading towards the 3/4 mark.

p.p.s the higher opening temps on the thermostat are better anyway and helps bring the engine up to normal operating temps quicker then the 69degree one.

its just normal driving conditions under load i will see just over 100 as well

mainly i just wanted to see if thats the right temp range for it

my thermostat was dodgey and was never really stable

as for my stock gague when my cltutch fan ceased the temp went past 120 degrees and it didnt even move ...

what temp will it read hot because mine has never moved past just under half

generally you should be seeing around the mid 80's when driving normally. if you have put in a new thermostat than you have ruled out 1 possible cause but there are still 2 others that may be affecting your engine temp.

1: water pump is on the way out. as the water pumps wear they can actually wear away the fins on the pump so you end up with a pump that doesn't pump very well. generally this should be changed at the 100,000km service, but since a lot of imports get lower km clusters put on them before being imported you can often end up with a car that has done well over 100,000kms on the original pump.

2: the radiator is blocked (internally) and isn't doing it's job properly. a simple radiator flush won't anything to help with this. they need to be professionally cleaned. however the cost of this isn't that much different to some of the cheap alloy radiators that you can buy, so the choice is up to you, but at least if you go the cleaning option you get to find out if it was actually blocked

My R34 stays in the range of 86 to 89 degrees - cold to normal outside temps.

On summer it stays around the 93 to 96 degree mark - however I've seen it reach 105 degrees - on 40+ degree days, in traffic and A/C on.

I get my readings from the "consult" unit from www.ecutalk.com

I use Castrol green "radicool" pre-mix - I think its 33% - But I do notice it loses its "nuclear" green colour quite quickly, to a dull green colour after around 6 months - not sure if this means anything.

maybe try some radiator flush or radiator cleaner from super cheap or any other car place..... its not as good as getting flushed by a specialist but i have seen good results....

tho i would say its pretty normal....

btw it does depend on a few other things.... if u got a front mount intercooler, thatl block air flow to the radiator, and the better the intercooler is the more hot air the radiator will see so engine temps will rise....

thanks for the responses guys i suspected it was a lil high i priced a full flush and radiator clean with new fluid $150 which i feel is fair but wanna go ally rad first i think

has anyone had any bad results with them (eg dodgey product )

what sort temp difference am i looking at with one i no its minimul but none the less i still would like one

also anyone that has one and wants to share there positive feedback feel free

My R34 stays in the range of 86 to 89 degrees - cold to normal outside temps.

On summer it stays around the 93 to 96 degree mark - however I've seen it reach 105 degrees - on 40+ degree days, in traffic and A/C on.

I get my readings from the "consult" unit from www.ecutalk.com

I use Castrol green "radicool" pre-mix - I think its 33% - But I do notice it loses its "nuclear" green colour quite quickly, to a dull green colour after around 6 months - not sure if this means anything.

These are the same sort of figures I'm seeing on my R34, and getting very worried on the very hot days getting to 100 or higher (and the clutch fan sounding uber-noisy when it kicks in)...

I've been contemplating taking the car to a radiator specialist to check the radiator out. I'll also be changing the water pump in the 100,000km service coming up.

Hmm 90-100c sounds quite high. Mine is normally between 75-80 degrees and will hit about 85 degrees when absolutely hammering it, even when getting tuned in a very hot workshop(45deg+) its peak was 90 degrees and that was for a very short period of time. I was getting 100 degrees if I switched my car off for a few minutes and then on again on hot days when I'd lost about 1 litre of coolant that was replaced with air. Once I bled the system it was down low again.

with my r32 with standard radiator etc, i used to have temps around 82deg. After a couple radiator flushes its gone up to 88-90deg (bled the system for air also)

Thermo's for r32s turn on at 95degrees

Replacing water pump, radiator and thermo soon so temps should drop down a lot after that.

Yeah ally rad is on the cards but for now i just want it sitting where it should be also i have just made a stainless radiator overflow identicle to the ones you would get from autobarn etc now what i would like to no is how exactly the standard one is setup to work i have noticed that overflow bottles tend to be higher than the rad

are they gravity fed or do they run of pressure built up in the radiator at high temps and suck from the bottle

the overflow bottle i have made is desined to sit next to the rad instead of beside the battery with the feed going in at the bottom aswell as the overflow the over flow is an 8mm piece of stainless cut 20mm shorter then the length of the actuall catch tank which has been welded to the inside of the tank so if it starts to fill up it will not over fill

now because of the way these are set there obviuosly not gonna work if the standard bottle works of gravity so thats y i ask the question do they suck or gravity feed??? thanks can post pictures if required

My standard rad (which turned out to be 90% blocked) was giving me 94C-104C. Replaced it with a 40mm cooling pro radiator and now it's 85C rock solid.

The standard radiators on R33 GTS-t are a 15mm core, which is pretty piss poor if you ask me.

If switching between red and green coolant make sure you flush ALL the coolant out. Mine was blocked because I was running red coolant and some f**king monkeys who serviced it in Balgowlah whose name we shall not mention publically refilled it with green coolant without flushing all the old stuff out and ended up sludging the system. I flushed it multiple times and put red coolant back in with the new rad.

90C is probably not too bad on the stock radiator.. any higher than that and I would rip it out and put a proper one in.

  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could someone post some pictures of the factory Jack , tools, spare tire and how they were in a 1998 ER34 2 door skyline originally?
    • UPDATE: Hi all!  As we are getting towards the end of this thread where I’ll showcase final dyno numbers and graph, I wanted to provide an update. Tao from HyperGear has done an amazing job building the custom divided T3 housing for the G30. Communication was flawless, price was great, and now the housing is estimated to arrive in 7-10 days! Very very pleased. I must add, if someone is looking for an affordable turbo and end up reading this thread, I would recommend HyperGear. Genuine brands are the way to go as their proven reliability, predictable performance, and there’s a plethora of information available for specs, flow, and more. This HyperGear recommendation is based on their excellent communication, dedication, and willingness to listen to their customers. I particularly liked their ability to create custom adaptations tailored to specific needs, which is a HUGE benefit over other brands. And if we consider the HyperGear provided dyno results, it adds reassurance knowing their turbos can compete against genuine brands. Next update will be after the dyno!  
    • I've previously seen people post up "dress up bolt kits" for RBs but don't remember seeing them specify the full contents. I can only really suggest you grab the verniers and start measuring, and keep in mind the cam cover and timing cover bolts are both quite specific with a wider unthreaded section where the bushes sit, that will make it hard to get aftermarket replacements which tend to be all thread (set screws) or for longer bolts a flat section with a shorter threaded section at the end
    • I believe there was a similar one posted by @duggyphresh. They were re-routing their battery positive cable in the way I am also trying to achieve. Sorry, I’m new to this forum, so was a bit late to the party by a few months and so reignited the old thread, as I wanted to know how they got on with doing it.
    • Wasn't there a thread on this very subject just a few weeks ago?
×
×
  • Create New...