Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering what is the cheapest way to "get inside" the management system of an R32?

I just want to change the fuel and ignition maps a little to get it runnign sweeter. Mine is over fueling a bit even tho my Oxy sensor is new, and I think the igntion timing could be better.

Apexi fc? or something else??

has anyone tried one of those kits from jaycar that are meant to adjust the ecu's closed loop mixtures?

+1 for nistune. will get you there for about half the cost of a pfc. should be under $1000 installed and tuned.

also the oxygen sensor won't solve any over fueling issues you are having when you floor it. they are only designed to help with fuel economy at light throttle applications. once you floor it the ecu ignores it.

if you don't know what you are doing i strongly advise to not try to tune an ecu by yourself as you can have some pretty serious effect on the car and not only end up with less power but also possibly end up damaging the engine.

+1 for second hand PFC, mine should be coming up shortly for sale.

Id be very interested in that! Let me know:)

How do they reprogramme the standard ECU? Do they take out a eprom and put it in a eprom reprogrammer? or do they have a way of connecting a laptop up to the standard ecu and changing the values on the fly?

www.nistune.com

Yeah i was looking at that a while ago, and read the whole website this morning. Think ill order one, as I dont think ill be able to refrain from biulding up the engine in this car in the future anyway haha

Do i have to buy a consult cable?

Edited by stimps

Nistune will definitely be the cheapest option and probably the best for what you need. If you are thinking about modding your car later on down the track than maybe go for a second hand Power FC unit but it will be would be more expensive.

The jaycar kits are decent - we have used them on cheap old cars to good effect and because they are pretty cheap you might want to try it out and see if you get the results you are looking for from it. But I would probably stick with the nistune for the safer alternative.

The jaycar kits are decent - we have used them on cheap old cars to good effect and because they are pretty cheap you might want to try it out and see if you get the results you are looking for from it. But I would probably stick with the nistune for the safer alternative.

can you tell me a little more about the jaycar one? does it actually take over control of the injectors? or modify the incoming signals? how is it programmed? can mixtures be changed while your driving? or is it simply a program and go arrangement?

i think the jaycar systems are just a signal bender. they alter the signal coming in from the AFM to trick the ecu into thinking that less air is entering the engine so it puts in less fuel. the downside is that you can't independantly alter the timing or the fuel at different revs or throttle loads. they are ok as a cheap basic alternative, but won't give you the gains of a fully programable ecu

+1 for NIStune. Do it! Best money you'll spend on your 32. Consult cable is good if you get the software as you can log and bring up digital dashboard with just about every gauge you can think of, even injector duty cycle. Plus you can then run it like a diag PC and knock out cylinders for testing and get ECU error codes etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This sounds like a perfect excuse to install a Haltech R3.
    • I do believe from context he is talking about a S0/S1 R33 RB25 with associated ECU and Wiring for that, and a manual gearbox into a R34 N/A Auto. I don't have the knowledge of all the pinouts and such but my gut feeling from doing my own conversion is to use as much of the R33 stuff that you can. The "car" wiring is quite seperate from the "Engine" wiring when all things are considered. The only things to truly consider 99% of the time is the cluster, reverse lights and potentially disabling the 'not in P/N' immobilizer circuit.
    • A realistic expectattion of how long it has to last also comes down to.... when do you think you will be banned from registering and driving old petrol powered shitters? It's 27 years since that thing was built. It probably rusted out 15 years ago. It was probably repaired and looked OK for another 10. If you do a similarish bodge job now, or perhaps slightly better with some actual rust conversion and glassing, then.... get another 10-15 years out of it, after which you'll only be permitted by the CCP to drive electric cars manufactured in their Shenzen zone anyway. 
    • Let me assume that the concern over a manual ECU is that the NeoDET that you have was an auto and has an auto ECU. That ECU will not be a problem, but you WILL have to Nistune it. And you would have to Nistune it even if you had a manual ECU, because the turbo ECUs will shit the bed if they do not have all the things that they were told they have to have, to be happy. The big one being the TCS CU, which you won't have in your car. Anyway, with an auto ECU (which I have running my originally auto NeoDET in an R32) Nistune allows you to put in a Stagea image which doesn't panic about the absent TCS, and allows you to override a whle bunch of other annoyances that would otherwise see the check engine light on 100% of the time. Also, you can't wind up the power very far on the stock NeoDET ECUs without Nistune, because the boost sensor gets in the way. Nistune allows you to push that problem much further up the dial. Do you even have the boost sensor with the engine? Without it, you are SOL and will need an aftermarket ECU (or to find a sensor somewhere, god knows where). I can't tell you what the wiring loom differences are in a 34. But what Duncan said above needs to be considered. When you say "loom", does that include the transmission loom? Because you will need to swap out the auto tranny loom for the equivalent manual loom, and get rid of the neutral/park start interlock (basically hot wire it).
    • I have had the r3c in for years now, maybe close to 7 years and it has never missed a beat, anyone can drive it. Super easy to drive around town, the hotter it gets does get a little hard but it holds the power easy as 
×
×
  • Create New...