Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

But I was wondering which would be better for a stockish type of engine

I know what sort of twin setup I would go for was thinking like twin Disco's as I hear the responce on these are great and they will support good top end.

But if I was to go a single which would give me sorta the same result.

I am happy with the stock twins but I would like to invest in a good turbo setup now which means I won't need to worry later on if I choose to go all out on the engine.....

I'm going to race the car and I would like to get as much responce out of it but still have the high end power.

Just wondering

thanks

CHris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319532-single-vs-twin-setup/
Share on other sites

the single turbo counterpart to the power the 2860-9 turbos will give is the 3076R. however if you go that route you have to buy all new manifold, dump/front pipe/intake pipe, intercooler piping etc. cost wise you are better off getting a set of twins.

twin disco's is a no go. there are bolt on replacements.

as everyone is suggesting, get a pair of -9s and get them installed. they are a good upgrade over stock and will make an easy 300kw.

Buy the turbos now that will suit you in the future.

There's no point buying something that suits the motor now if you're going to change the motor later IMO

Also, make sure someone who knows what they're doing does the work for you. I can think of a few Sydney GTR's that have -7's and one with GTSS's that just don't seem "right". But then i can think of a few Melbourne GTR's that have the same turbos and they go like they're made by NASA.

I wish someone would make something bigger than a GTRS in lowmount form :wub:

Its probably just my personal opinion, but if you're going to build a GTR, make it a fast one! I cant understand why people do the whole built motor thing and a catalogue of parts thrown at their car to finish with 300awkw for example. A stock one will do that! Spend the money on tires, brake discs and pads then go track it until you're sick of it, that will work out much better for your wallet

EDIT: Unless of course you kill the motor, then you're no worse off than when you started but you've had fun along the way

Buy the turbos now that will suit you in the future.

There's no point buying something that suits the motor now if you're going to change the motor later IMO

Its probably just my personal opinion, but if you're going to build a GTR, make it a fast one! I cant understand why people do the whole built motor thing and a catalogue of parts thrown at their car to finish with 300awkw for example. A stock one will do that! Spend the money on tires, brake discs and pads then go track it until you're sick of it, that will work out much better for your wallet

See I'm the other side of the coin - IMO buy the turbos to suit the application now, and then just change them later.

You can just sell them off 2nd hand anyway, or keep them incase you don't like the feel of the larger ones. You'll cost yourself what, maybe 1k... in the overall scheme of things that ain't particularly much.

Nothing wrong with putting a built motor in for 300rwkw either. R32 motors especially are long in the legs and R33's are getting there now as well.

My motor could hold 400rwkw, but I only ever intend to make around 330-340rwkw out of it. I did buy it blown, so i did have to rebuild :wub:

More for reliabilty's sake as opposed to anything else was the reasoning hence i didn't go with a running stock motor as i CBF'd pulling a stocker motor out later when it died - just build, insert, happy times.

See I'm the other side of the coin - IMO buy the turbos to suit the application now, and then just change them later.

You can just sell them off 2nd hand anyway, or keep them incase you don't like the feel of the larger ones. You'll cost yourself what, maybe 1k... in the overall scheme of things that ain't particularly much.

Nothing wrong with putting a built motor in for 300rwkw either. R32 motors especially are long in the legs and R33's are getting there now as well.

My motor could hold 400rwkw, but I only ever intend to make around 330-340rwkw out of it. I did buy it blown, so i did have to rebuild :wub:

More for reliabilty's sake as opposed to anything else was the reasoning hence i didn't go with a running stock motor as i CBF'd pulling a stocker motor out later when it died - just build, insert, happy times.

Well, it was just personal opinion then :wub:

You make some good points aswel, i definatly agree buying a blown motor and building it up is better than rebuilding whats in the car currently.

It means the owner can take their time, get the parts they want, and the car isnt stuck in a workshop covered with dust

2860-9's for a stock 26 would be the way to go.

-5's if you defiantly want to build the motor (soon)

I wouldn't mess about trying single turbo setups unless you go for a twin scroll manifold etc.

hey, sorry im just learning about turbos, but would you go with the -9s to start with cos the A/R ratio is higher, giving more power? but the -5's A/R is lower in peak power so not-advised unless other most are coming too to raise the power?

or have i got this all wrong?

I wish someone would make something bigger than a GTRS in lowmount form :P

The trust T618Z 10cm kit seems to squeeze a little more power than the GTRS's... There is also rumors of a T620Z kit on it's way. Should be intersting.

You'd be mad to choose a top mount set up for anything less than 400awkw.

J.

The trust T618Z 10cm kit seems to squeeze a little more power than the GTRS's... There is also rumors of a T620Z kit on it's way. Should be intersting.

You'd be mad to choose a top mount set up for anything less than 400awkw.

J.

Didn't know anything about a new trust turbo coming out, thanks for that!

I wouldn't be betting on it though as the jap companies are all so focussed on r35's now

still, I'd love to see it happen!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...