Subframe Modifications For Your Track Car

[nsmo30tt]

Thanks loads Dave.. that clears a lot of things up and makes it easier.. just one quick question does anywhere sell riser bushes that aren't solid... it's not really that important but just wondering. Thanks

[Equinox]

FFS dont put a s14 cradle in a 32. what a waste of time. get a non-hicas s13 (w. r200 4 bolt pattern) subframe buy some riser bushes foam fill the frame and put it in. Will all bolt up and will correct your suspension geomatry, no point going s14.

No the S13 subframe is identical to a non-HICAS R32 subframe.

The S14/R33 onwards have the revised frame with the modified anti-squat. It's the angle of the LCA which determines this; not the diff angle. The diff ango will make no difference whatsoever to suspension geometry.

[32_Dave]

No the S13 subframe is identical to a non-HICAS R32 subframe.

The S14/R33 onwards have the revised frame with the modified anti-squat. It's the angle of the LCA which determines this; not the diff angle. The diff ango will make no difference whatsoever to suspension geometry.

yeah but how many 32's around have no hicas... very limited. no point putting a s14 or 33 frame in the back, unless a company brings out a solid riser ofset bush, i think powered by max will in the near future.

[Equinox]

yeah but how many 32's around have no hicas... very limited. no point putting a s14 or 33 frame in the back, unless a company brings out a solid riser ofset bush, i think powered by max will in the near future.

I dont get you.

There clearly is a point... For the anti-squat. That's the whole reason for doing the subframe swap in the first place! The difference is like night and day. I've done it back to back on a circuit S13.

Plenty of companies make offset spacers for the conversion. PoweredByMax aren't pioneers in this field by any means...

[nsmo30tt]

hey Dave only reason I was considering doing the S14/R33 was because I found these:

http://www.splparts.com/SPL_SSB_S13C.html

[32_Dave]

hey Dave only reason I was considering doing the S14/R33 was because I found these:

http://www.splparts.com/SPL_SSB_S13C.html

duno if u realise thats a very expencive option. $200us for bushes a subframe would be like 80-100 bux bare. then u got solid diff bushes ontop adjustable arms if u dont have them, the list goes on.

if u got the cash by all means.

if anyone is keen on doing the s14/33 option i have a 33 subframe w. diff if keen. (BNE)

Edited June 11, 2010 by 32_Dave

[nsmo30tt]

Well..I mean I have a limit on how much I'm willing to spend, both ideas do seem good.. but in this case the price difference isn't going to be huge for me because either way i need to buy a new subframe and bushes.. so for me now it comes down to the best option.. so s13 or s14

Edited June 11, 2010 by 30edR32

[32_Dave]

Well..I mean I have a limit on how much I'm willing to spend, both ideas do seem good.. but in this case the price difference isn't going to be huge for me because either way i need to buy a new subframe and bushes.. so for me now it comes down to the best option.. so s13 or s14

well for bolt up reasons and price reasons s13.

pros:

can use all items off the 32 subframe

cons:

purchase of adj toe arms

otherwise s14 is the better option.

pros:

beter geom

cons:

would have to buy a dressed subframe (diff, lca etc etc)

more expencive bushes

diffrent diff

solid diff bushes

purchase of adj toe arms

if u have big rims, they will stick out more.

why u think i said go s13? sumed up the above thats why i went s13, and modified the subframe.

[nsmo30tt]

Okay.. I think I'll be going with S13, I have 9.5" on the back and theyre just about touching the guards even with camber.. and I still want to go wider

[Simon-S14]

there is a point... and that is to maximise the handling available... thats why you'd upgrade to a s14 cradle.

get bushes made by a machinist and its not so expensive after all.

[32_Dave]

there is a point... and that is to maximise the handling available... thats why you'd upgrade to a s14 cradle.

get bushes made by a machinist and its not so expensive after all.

not expencive if u already have all the other parts, bushes are the least of worries.

whats a fully dressed s14 or r33 subframe worth? and even then chances are all the arms are stock.

[Simon-S14]

with no diff, around 100-150 bucks.

[rad100]

so can this be done to a r32 hicas rear sub frame?

just unbolt and fit the alloy bushes?

or does it have to have a s13 or s14 subframe?

thats where im lost..

[nsmo30tt]

rad32.. from what I understand yes this can be done to a 32 hicas subframe.. but it's a better option to go with s13 non hicas if you have already locked your hicas.. and yeah pretty much just because there are a lot more s13 non hicas subframes than 32's

[rad100]

yeh my hicas isnt locked (yet)..

[Simon-S14]

al nissan subframes have same bush size

[msports180]

Next is correcting the same thing for the front end. You drill your front Lower Control arm (LCA) upwards. See pic 6 Then the only thing left to correct is your tie rods, simply buying new tierod ends can fix this. See pic 7

Picture 6:

Did you also raise the castor rod mount the same amount?

I thought you have to do both?

[nsmo30tt]

I'd like to know this aswell.. it does make sense

[32_Dave]

Did you also raise the castor rod mount the same amount?

I thought you have to do both?

me personally no didnt need to. but a mate of mine has, he did math to work it out, not just same amount as a riser bush.

[drf76]

so in what way are s14/r33 different...more anti squat or less anti squat. Im asking as some ppl on here are saying that s14 gains traction because it has more antisquat. Im confused. It actually opposite?

Simon u say u get more traction therefore i assume s14 has less anti squat design in the frame than s13/r32. But if u think about it by raising the frame right up in the nose ur increasing antisquat = less traction. Cancelling out what the frame has built into it. If u do this to a s13/r32 that means even more anti-squat = even less traction.

But then again, it is correcting roll centre which is the main aim I suppose. I wasn't sure when i did this to my 33 frame so i kept the front of the frame in the original position and only raised the rear. to gain more squat for traction. havent tested it at the track yet.

Has anyone tried different angles of the subframe for traction gain? is it worth worrying about.?

Thats why some solid bushes come with slip in spacers as subframe raisers create more antisquat. for eg http://www.splparts.com/SPL_SSB_S13C.html

Edited June 18, 2010 by drf76