Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm about to put an oil cooler on my RB28, which ones do people who do a bit of track work use,

Has anyone used Mocal, Serck, Setrab ? and what size--10 row - 50 row ??

also where to mount. my last GTR had one mounted behind the passenger side front indicator with the plastic indicator surround cut out, don't think that got enough air, oil temps still went up pretty quick on the track.. I've seen them mounted in front of the radiator, but does that affect water temp ??

thoughts ?? :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319663-oil-coolers/
Share on other sites

Im running a setrab 30 row just infront of the rad with earls oil filter/block adapter and pirtek lines I had made up.

Bit of a random setup but does the job.

One thing I learnt but, try to steer clear of cheaper kits that use a barb and hose clamp for the end oil line fittings, proper crimped lines are best.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319663-oil-coolers/#findComment-5220458
Share on other sites

Im running a setrab 30 row just infront of the rad with earls oil filter/block adapter and pirtek lines I had made up.

Bit of a random setup but does the job.

One thing I learnt but, try to steer clear of cheaper kits that use a barb and hose clamp for the end oil line fittings, proper crimped lines are best.

yeah I'll definatly be using the good fittings, do it right, do it once....

have you tested it on the track, if so what sort of temps do you see ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319663-oil-coolers/#findComment-5220566
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just one more post to show the final result and the original "janky" solution for a laugh. Everything feels really tight and no wobbling at all, very pleased 🙂
    • After drying a few days, time to put her back together 
    • The hot exhaust light will come on not from just the cat being blocked, but it's just a temp sensor, and it's designed to warn you to not do things like park in long grass.   If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on.   Second if the cat is rattling, I'd suspect it's not blocked, but instead falling apart inside.   The easiest "fix" until you can get a cat put back in, is to unbolt your one, bash the rest of the insides out, and then bolt it back in.   For a daily driver/street car, I am in agreeance of put a cat in the car. If it were race car I wouldn't care if it were removed.
    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
×
×
  • Create New...