Abs Removal. How To!?

[RBceffy25]

Heya!

I am about to do an R33 brake conversion and Ichiba 5-stup upgrade on all four corners of my ABS equipped Cefiro.

I would prefer to remove the whole ABS system to reduce weight, increase engine bay space and just generally tidy up excessive line etc.

What is the correct way to do this?

Or do I just leave it alone all together?

[Nic_A31]

Even for track use, ABS can be very helpful, and its easy to disable (fuse).

If you must remove it, pull the globe from the dash, disconnect the loom under the rear shelf and remove the ABS computer, remove all the brake lines, ABS hub, sensors, etc.

Keep in mind the hard lines on Cefiro are Cefiro only...as they're a mix of using S13 master cylinder (which will also need to be replaced) running along an R32 firewall. Making your own solid brake lines isnt hard, if you're doing the R33 conversion you'll need to make up your own flexible brake hoses too (or dodgey modify the banjo bolt), so just do them all in one hit, but yeah, I reckon keep it...more con's than pro's if you remove it.

[lachlanw]

dont cut the banjo bolt . wind a screw into the lil bit that stops the bolt going right in and pull it out with pliers .

[RBceffy25]

Even for track use, ABS can be very helpful, and its easy to disable (fuse).

If you must remove it, pull the globe from the dash, disconnect the loom under the rear shelf and remove the ABS computer, remove all the brake lines, ABS hub, sensors, etc.

Keep in mind the hard lines on Cefiro are Cefiro only...as they're a mix of using S13 master cylinder (which will also need to be replaced) running along an R32 firewall. Making your own solid brake lines isnt hard, if you're doing the R33 conversion you'll need to make up your own flexible brake hoses too (or dodgey modify the banjo bolt), so just do them all in one hit, but yeah, I reckon keep it...more con's than pro's if you remove it.

Do you have it?

Its seems to be a rather shitty system or mybe mine is faulty?

When i hit bumps on the road while braking the ABS has a tendency to kick in and then off again making it quite annoying. This happens when under braking and the driven wheel(s) skip off the ground when on a bumpy surface, causing a bit of slip in the diff or something and (i assume) the ABS computer reads this as high speed or hard braking braking and jumps into action when i dont want it to.

I like to be in full control of my cars functions but the ABS seems do have a bit of a mind of its own at times.

I have all the gear to do the conversion including braided lines etc.

I have also just been informed that there may be some legalities involved if i remove this. Is this the case?

If I keep the abs will it work with the hubs and calipers i have?

Or do I need ABS compatible hubs or something?

While on this toppic,

What the difference with the ABS diff? I have been told its longer but will this affect my decision to put a shimmed, 4.11:1 R33 center in it?

[Nic_A31]

Not sure on legalities, read the Australian Design Rules.

I've yet to give my ABS a work out in the Ceffy but it has been usefull in my 94 J30 Maxima. I can't relate the symptoms you described to any ABS Nissan I've driven, might just be yours? Cefiro's had that supersonic suspension setup from the factory that had (auto) adjustable damper rates...the ABS might be tied in with this.

I've never taken a look at how the ABS sensor at each wheel works...you should be able to use the same knuckle and wheel hub though.

Like I said, you can just pull the ABS fuse if you like, for times when you don't want it interfering if it is doing so, and then put the fuse back in for driving around on the street?

The extra weight isnt that much, and can be a lifesaver in the wet/limited traction situations.

[RBceffy25]

Not sure on legalities, read the Australian Design Rules.

I've yet to give my ABS a work out in the Ceffy but it has been usefull in my 94 J30 Maxima. I can't relate the symptoms you described to any ABS Nissan I've driven, might just be yours? Cefiro's had that supersonic suspension setup from the factory that had (auto) adjustable damper rates...the ABS might be tied in with this.

I've never taken a look at how the ABS sensor at each wheel works...you should be able to use the same knuckle and wheel hub though.

Like I said, you can just pull the ABS fuse if you like, for times when you don't want it interfering if it is doing so, and then put the fuse back in for driving around on the street?

The extra weight isnt that much, and can be a lifesaver in the wet/limited traction situations.

Sweet as, i think i'll just leave it alone and as you said, take out the fuse if im on track or somthing.

At the end of the day my intention with the ceffy is for a streeter so probably best left as is.

The only other thing that bothers me is that the ABS unit sits right above the turbo/dump and when hard driving is applied i tend to lose a bit of stopping power, i would say, from the brake fluid being overheated. I have a makeshift heatshield in place, which seems to work ok but maybe a more permanent shield is needed if i'm to keep the system.

on a side note

I use tein HA coilovers that came fitted on the car from japan

[huddy]

It's not hard to do, done it with good results.

pm sent with pic

[Nic_A31]

Highmount turbo? Either way it's a good point, heat right next to brake fluid is not cool. It's also next to your power steering resevoir as well

http://www.7tune.com/newtune/justin/cefiro/5.jpg

(more on that drifter, here)

More permanent heatshield and opening an air duct into that corner would help.

If you're making your own solid lines, you could drill some holes into the firewall and run them back in there, under that gutter/drain,

[huddy]

yeah nice pic. I was there at setonai circuit with justin and laurence. we were there for msc event. even got a pic with orido as he was there judging...

...anyway back on topic

my reason for removing initially was because the unit was leaking... brake fluid leak is terrible for paint/metal... still happy it's gone though.

[Nic_A31]

Brake fluid leak is AWESOME if you're sanding back and respraying the engine bay like I did...made the sanding job easier haha

[RBceffy25]

It's not hard to do, done it with good results.

pm sent with pic

Cheers huddy!

[daisu]

Keep in mind the hard lines on Cefiro are Cefiro only...as they're a mix of using S13 master cylinder (which will also need to be replaced) running along an R32 firewall.

S13 master cylinder is the same shape as the R32 master cylinder. Therefore the hard lines should be identical to the R32.

[Nic_A31]

Isnt the R32 wider? and shorter?

in terms of how far the hard lines have to travel to meet up with the hoses?

[daisu]

Dunno now, but thinking about it the strut towers/wheel arches are going to be the same shape as the S13, so the R32 lines probably wouldn't fit. Not sure how different the firewalls are, but the master cylinders are the same shape (S13/R32).

[Nic_A31]

Hard lines don't really go by strut towers or wheel arches though.

Firewall (according to parts thread) is same as R32)...they run along the firewall then drop down to the chassis rail and then breach the wheel arch, the rears go down the firewall and run along the inside of the right chassis rail, then seperate when they reach the cradle.

Strut towers are wheel arches are closer together than S13....AWD Cefiro's can probably get away with R32 solid lines, to say the least.

Wonder if anyone has done it ? I need to make some new ones up for mine, was just going to use the old bolts, some tube and get a tube bender.

[adrnln]

I have just removed my ABS completely and replace it with R32 brake master and booster and used the line from the front half of a R32 shell a mate was going to throw out.

You need to replace the master cylinder because ABS masater has two line coming out going to the ABS and then the ABS distributes to all four calapers. Non ABS units have three lines coming out, one to front left, one to front right and one to rear for both sides.

R32 solid lines will fit but a few man handling bends will be needed, but they all fit up on the fronts.

The rear all you have the do is get the shortest of the solid lines, undo the line that goes to the rear at the little junction box just under the brake booster and contect it to the brake master.

Bleed as you normally would but a few more time then normal to get all the air out and brakes will be better then ever.

I will try take some pics and get a list of things required for the change out

But see attached pic of a non ABS brake master.

Billy

[huddy]

here's the pic I pm'd before... for everyone else's info...

[Nic_A31]

Thanks huddy

[adrnln]

Still one of the better things I have done with the girl. Braking some much more responsive. Less gear under the bonnet too.