Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb30 Block Modifications

hpt_simon
 Share

Recommended Posts

hpt_simon Contributor

hpt_simon

Posted
Posted

hi,

tried a long search , and read god knows how many posts trying to find informations.

so, my question is: what modifcations do people do to rb30 blocks internally? i know in the rb26 you drill out the oil returns abit mone, no idea how much, and same as rb30 polish the inside of block to relieve stress and take all casting marks out. what else do people do?

how much do you drill the oil returns out to ?

do you also drill the main bearing oil outlets bigger¿

any modifications to the water ways?

and i saw on some other forum how they modified the block for oil jects, as i think rb26 ones wont fit and there is too little material to use banjo bolts.

im going to be building a 800bhp dry sumped track car with rb30, and want to keep it as reliable as possible (if this is possible :cool: )

thanks again

simon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/319756-rb30-block-modifications/
Share on other sites
  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted (edited)
hi,

tried a long search , and read god knows how many posts trying to find informations.

so, my question is: what modifcations do people do to rb30 blocks internally? i know in the rb26 you drill out the oil returns abit mone, no idea how much, and same as rb30 polish the inside of block to relieve stress and take all casting marks out. what else do people do?

how much do you drill the oil returns out to ?

do you also drill the main bearing oil outlets bigger¿

any modifications to the water ways?

and i saw on some other forum how they modified the block for oil jects, as i think rb26 ones wont fit and there is too little material to use banjo bolts.

im going to be building a 800bhp dry sumped track car with rb30, and want to keep it as reliable as possible (if this is possible :P )

thanks again

simon

Deburr, oil drains out to 8mm, oil feeds out to 7mm, grout to bottom of welsh plugs and use Nitto RB30 rods as they have an oil jet built into them that jets oil to the underside of piston using a feed off the big end bearing.

hope that answers your questions Simon...hows the Vi-PEC?

Edited by Swiper the Fox
Cartman Rising Star

Cartman

Posted
Posted
Deburr, oil drains out to 8mm, oil feeds out to 7mm, grout to bottom of welsh plugs and use Nitto RB30 rods as they have an oil jet built into them that jets oil to the underside of piston using a feed off the big end bearing.

hope that answers your questions Simon...hows the Vi-PEC?

Is that the I beams only that have that feature?

hpt_simon Contributor

hpt_simon

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Deburr, oil drains out to 8mm, oil feeds out to 7mm, grout to bottom of welsh plugs and use Nitto RB30 rods as they have an oil jet built into them that jets oil to the underside of piston using a feed off the big end bearing.

hope that answers your questions Simon...hows the Vi-PEC?

thanks for the answer dude.

so drains to 8 and 7mm oild feeds? to where? head? mains? .....sorry dont have block infront of me to check how retarded my doubt is :P

i heard of the nitto feature, but i already have custom rods (longer, for rb26 pistons) and these dont have that feature. so as i need to take the block to get worked on anyways, was hoping there was another mod to fit the rb26 jets or some other type of jet :P (or i could just drill the rods for this, and modify the bearing for it?, but this would mean i alwasy have oil coming out..........well, thinking about it, souldnt be that bad hahha, as i have esternal pump, and could just gear diferenty to keep pressure up)

vipec. is brilliant, didnt get to use it much, as my engine was on its way out :P, in the process of full stich weld the chasis and get money to keep the projcect going. but one thing i have to add about the vipec ..or link ecus, is the ability to change all digital, analog etcetc outptus to suit your needs, thats proper top end ecu stuff, and very very very handy.

when you say grout the block? you mean take the lower welsh plugs out and put special cement in there?, if so, up to what level? as this is going to be a road / track car (high revving 3 liter thingy)

nothing else people do to their blocks¿

simon

Edited by hpt_simon
Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted (edited)
How do the nitto rods compare to argos? quality and price wise?

about the same with both...although the Nitto's feature 7/16 rod bolts insted of the Argo's 3/8 bolts...the finish on the Nitto's is incredible. They also have the added bonus of having a built in piston oil squirter...very clever. The Nitto's are slightly more expensive as i get a good discount at Argo, but im happy to pay a bit more for Nitto. I have a mate who builds engines for Triple 8 racing who was an avid argo fan in the past but was highly impressed with the new Nitto items...if anyone knows what they are looking at its him.

Edited by Swiper the Fox
datsqik Enthusiast

datsqik

Posted
Posted

I fitted some Nitto rods in a 30 last week and they definately look strong. Slightly heavier than the Argos though. The argos use a groove in the side to allow some oil to get thrown in the direction of the piston and the Pauter rods use 2 grooves in the side for the same thing but they can also be ordered with a oil hole right thru the rod to the pin. I personally think the Nitto rods are one of the best on the market and would recommend them to anyone building a tough rb30. The little end on these is undersized so they can be honed to suit the pin being used unlike some rods on the market that are to loose right from the word go.

NYTSKY Grand Master

NYTSKY

Posted
Posted
I have a question about grout filling.. would this be recommended on a street car or is that just pure stupidity?

I know a guy who has a 2.9L RB with a half grout filled block. Drives it on the weekends.

Just make sure you have a very good cooling system.

nsmo30tt Enthusiast

nsmo30tt

Posted
Posted
I know a guy who has a 2.9L RB with a half grout filled block. Drives it on the weekends.

Just make sure you have a very good cooling system.

Sweet.. Think I might give that a go.. you think that big rad with stock viscous fan and shroud on with 1 electric fan on the front and aircon rad removed with an early opening thermo is a good enough cooling system?

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted (edited)
Ive filled them with harblok to the top of the lower welsh plugs (about 30mm from the bottom) without any over heating problems. Ive just done another to 15mm from the top which also has darton sleeves but thats a drag only car on meth.

I do them all as a matter of course now. Some of the circuit racers have commented that they have lower logged temps after grouting. When you really think about how a thermostat controlled cooling system works it actually makes sense.

If i did my own engine block i would have raced at Compak Attak as where the block split on the friday before the event was at the bottom of the water jacket. So from now on they all get grouted.

Edited by Swiper the Fox
Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted
so how exactly do you grout fill an engine or should my question be where can you buy proper grout fill for engines from?

I buy my Hardblok from Rocket. Probably cheaper for you to drop the block off at your local engine shop and get them to do it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


×
×
  • Create New...