Turbo Upgrade On Stock Rb25det

[rabs_33gtst]

Hi guys...i know im going to seem like a bit of a noob, however i need all the help i can get. My turbo is making a "whoooooo" noise when spooling and i have asked around and from what i can tell is most likely the result of the compressor wheel is rubbing agains the housing. How long will this turbo last??

Secondly as i need to save up money for an upgrade, i would like to know what my best options are for a turbo upgrade on an series 1 r33 rb25det, WITHOUT!!! the need to upgrade ecu, manifold, injectors, fuel pump etc...(will do it eventually, just want the car back running on the road asap). Realistically i only want to run 12-16psi (eventually) with the appropriate mods and just want a good aftermarket turbo that i can fit onto the car now and modify to suit my needs later.....

The stats:

A/T transmission

Stock interals

Stock ecu

Stock injectors

Stock fuel pump

Stock exhaust manifold

Stock dump-pipe

Stock AFM

Greddy FMIC

Turbosmart boost-tee with Autometre Boost guage (12psi)

KKN 3'' POD

Kakimoto 3'' exhuast with cat

Turbo smart BOV

M1 spec oil catch can

GReddy turbo timer

Recently removed Plumback piping (as a result of BOV and Catchcan which now vents into atmosphere) and blocked the appropriate lines, and removed the charcole canister and blocked the appropriate lines.

Some suitable options i have found are:

Rebuilt/upgraded stock turbo from MTQ (have a stock turbs with coolant/oil leak) - $1650

HKS 2540

KKR 430 (not sure what mods are needed exactly)

this is all i have so far and have to go away for work for 2 weeks on thursday....so any imput would be greatly appreciated, so i can get my car back running on the road....

Cheers

Brendan

[paulr33]

there's no point doing your mods with upgrading the ECU or tuning it

you may as well leave it as a stock GTST with stock everything

the stock GTST goes from 140rwkw with basic mods and a tune to 200rwkw

without a tune it would be pretty ordinary

[rabs_33gtst]

I get what your saying, and i dont want to run the turbs on the setup i have at the moment forever...... basically i want an upgraded turbo that i can bolt onto the car now and run it without having to have upgrade ecu and get it tuned right away...(not going with another stock turbo, because thats the reason im having the trouble i am now), and modify the ecu, injectors, fuel pump etc once i have the money. More of a progressive upgrade timeline than getting it all done at once...cause that would mean 3 - 6 months without the car because of my work schedule...

The stats are just where the car is at atm....i just dont want to waste my money on a shit turbo...i would rather purchase a decent turbs which will bolt onto the car and run how it is at the moment and then i can get a tune and upgrade ecu etc, once i have some more money...

Thanks

Edited May 8, 2010 by rabs_33gtst

[paulr33]

you can fit any new turbocharger you like and just drive around like a normal car on the stock ecu

depending on how much it flows and how different it is its likely you wont be able to load it fully up

ie if you ramp it on boost and trash it, its either likely to lean out / detonate or hit the stock ecu airflow cut (aka boost cut, or rich and retard)

so as long as you are ok with driving normally and dont expect lots of power and mega response then its ok

[perzn_34]

im running a hks ht-rs with stock ecu, stock fuel, stock dump pipe and stock boost gauge that shows just under 1bar .. runs fine but rich probs becouse of atmo bov, getting it dynoed at the "big dyno day" next week end ill tell you about the results.

[Super Drager]

im running a hks ht-rs with stock ecu, stock fuel, stock dump pipe and stock boost gauge that shows just under 1bar .. runs fine but rich probs becouse of atmo bov, getting it dynoed at the "big dyno day" next week end ill tell you about the results.

I highly doubt your running 1 bar on a GT-RS with a stock ecu, oh and a stock dump pipe WON'T fit onto a HKS turbo.

[paulr33]

technically it's possible and he could be

you could probably run twin T88s on the stock ecu

its just if you load it up and bring it on boost, its probably going to run like ass

it will work, but it wont be ideal

there is so much power / response / gains to be had from a good tune (regardless of how, piggyback, remap, standalone)

[GTScotT]

he probably means the stock front pipe bolted to the hks dump that comes with the kit, and for all we know the ecu could have a FCD wired in.

On topic, check out hypergears new ATR43SS, the results are amazing, and im fairly sure if you got stao to build it into the stock turbo and ran the stock R33 actuator at low boost it will run FINE. Not impressive as already said above, but it shouldnt give you any headaches in the meantime while you save up for a tune.

GL

[NYTSKY]

Please dont think you can put any turbo on, no matter how similar it is to the stock one. You will need the ECU tuned to suit.

You could get the stock one highflowed, but without a tuned ECU it will feel worse than the stock one. You will hit R&R everytime you give it some and have reduced fuel consumption.

Either buy a good second hand stock turbo or wait till you have enough money to buy a tunable ECU.

[rabs_33gtst]

Thanks for all the imput guys...im leaning towards getting the stock one hiflowed at MTQ here in brisbane...then asap getting an ecu and tune....now to find work out which ecu to pick for an A/T that isnt going to cost me an arm and a leg Haletch cough cough..... ......Leaning towards and Adaptronic e420c....but would also like to know my other options....SAFC NEO? Microtech? Wolf 3d? - want to spend between $400-$1500...less is better as i dont plan any other mods apart from fuel pump, injectors and the current mods that i have now..

[paulr33]

please be aware that a lot of those ECU options are manual only, that is they wont support the R33 GTST auto box and will assume your car is manual. so be sure to select a solution that will work with the auto box correctly, the powerfc doesn't as its a manual ECU only.

from memory the remap option is the best for auto (and probably most cost)

so check out a remap or nistune, even if it costs more

[PM-R33]

I highly doubt your running 1 bar on a GT-RS with a stock ecu, oh and a stock dump pipe WON'T fit onto a HKS turbo.

Not sure what you are on about but a HKS GT-RS does bolt onto a stock 6 bolt dump pipe.

Considering a GT-RS actuator is 1bar, yes he is. I ran mine on the stock ECU at 1 bar for a while before i got a tune. It just runs rich and shit.

[perzn_34]

LOL my HKS GT_RS is bolted on to the stock dump pipe with two bottom bolts missing of the connection, im 99% sure ecu is stock as what the last owner told me and yess runs rich like a bitch

[rabs_33gtst]

Thank you Paulr33 and all the others for the help.....I know what your saying because i have been online and to the shops and its f*&ked trying to nail a decent ecu for an A/T....does anyone out there know about or have any experience with Motech, Adaptronic, Haltec, Wolf, Apexi ecu's etc that will work with the A/T???????? Adaptronic guys recommend manual, but say that they have had 33's with A/T run it with no problems (AT YOUR OWN RISK LOL). Would love to do the Manual conversion (and it was on the cards before this drama), but is something i will have to work around now too. Will def look into a remap, nistune and work out where to go next.....

Cheers

[Aberax]

What about a NisTune? That uses a stock Skyline ECU, it just has a daughter board inside so you can tweak it more while retaining factory features. I could be completely wrong, but that is my understanding of NisTune

[HoWiE_Au]

Damn i hope im not stuck with my Wolf3d V4 plug and play ecu i bought lol . I have a auto box too. I told the wolf3d tuner Trevor simkin in shepparton victoria, that i have a auto and he said no probs ????

[Rolls]

If you do the turbo, change the waste gate spring so that it won't run much more than a few psi, you REALLY do not want to risk blowing up your motor.

Optimally once the turbo stuffs its self you could just take the rear/front wheel out and drive it until you can afford to do nistune/exhaust/turbo/injectors/fuel pump all in one hit, otherwise you are going to risk popping your motor from leaning it out.

Edited May 25, 2010 by Rolls