Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

*see attached pic to know what im talking about*

i've thought long and hard to figure out a way in which i can cover up that dastardly looking mounting point for a GT-R badge.. unfortunately the front bar/grille are one piece so swapping the grille out is not a option.

Hopefully someone can think of some way in which i can over the damn piece to make the front look alittle more normal de-badged, figured as their are afew of these front bars floating around, somone has bound to have run into some solutions before :blush:

thanks in advance guys!

Joel.

post-71179-1273325445_thumb.jpg

you've got the mesh on the wrong side.

make a cardboard template for the mesh to sit as flush as possible against the back piece.

drill pairs of tiny holes along the line of the template on the panel

cut a piece of mesh (if possible a finer mesh than what you've got) to size using the template

paint the middle piece of the panel black so it blends into the under-bonnet area better

thread some thin solid metal wire through one of the pairs of holes you drilled earlier

loop the wires through the mesh and back through the other hole in the pair

tighten the wire by twisting it.

if possible spray the mesh black, so that the whole thing just blends together.

It would also help if you took the time to make sure your bumper sat right. Your RHS headlight needs to go up a bit, and that gnarly gap (possibly from fibreglass sag or bad fitting of screws) between the headlights and bumper needs to disappear.

is it the same car as your profile pic? the one that shows the plate though cause it looks the same.

anyway back to the first question. i would just cut the section out and tidy it up a bit.

car is mine, same car as profile pick, just stole the photo from the old owners days, he kept his plates though so i thought it would be considerate to not flash them around without his permision

yea abit cautious of attacking the car with a hack saw but might be what it has to come to :blink: also anyone have a clue how to go about getting paint colour matched? (car was sprayed before i bought it and wouldn't mind getting some touch up paint for those chips in the bottom corner

cheers guys

you've got the mesh on the wrong side.

make a cardboard template for the mesh to sit as flush as possible against the back piece.

drill pairs of tiny holes along the line of the template on the panel

cut a piece of mesh (if possible a finer mesh than what you've got) to size using the template

paint the middle piece of the panel black so it blends into the under-bonnet area better

thread some thin solid metal wire through one of the pairs of holes you drilled earlier

loop the wires through the mesh and back through the other hole in the pair

tighten the wire by twisting it.

if possible spray the mesh black, so that the whole thing just blends together.

It would also help if you took the time to make sure your bumper sat right. Your RHS headlight needs to go up a bit, and that gnarly gap (possibly from fibreglass sag or bad fitting of screws) between the headlights and bumper needs to disappear.

you put way to much effort into a nub question hehe :blink:

the mesh to me appears to be on the right side of the grill and in my opinion it would be easier to cut the center bit out and tidy it up with some fiber glassing work rather than muck around trying to make sure you cut the mesh so it fits snug against the edge of the grill.

personally this how i would do it. but thats me,

yea mesh is definitely on the right side considered getting some black grill, replacing the silver grill and just painting the middle bit but don't really think it will work how i want it to, yea cutting it is definitely the ideal solution but i simply don't trust myself to do it.. im still trolling the R33 photo thread looking for ideas :thumbsup:

yea im actually considering it, just as a guide, does anyone know approx. how much a panel beater will charge for the cutting, painting where it was cut, fixing those chips under the numberplate, and fixing a 10c piece sized paint crack on the front bar (from scraping on the floor and pulling the bar into the guard)

if its not to expensive i might aswell get it all touched up and save myself some hassle... for interests sake anyone know where i can get the car paint matched? (don't think its the factory code anymore), do places like autobahn/supercheap still do it?

cheers guys!

couldnt tell you how much they charge, i would imaging you might be ablr to get it matched at those places but i would say you need the paint code,

if its not the original paint code i wouldnt know what to do there. maybe a panel beater/ paint shop could tell you where to get it matched

wouldnt bother it'll cost ya half the price of a new bar even although its a small job so just go diy get some zipties and give it a shot its not a show car is it?

nah mate yea might try it myself, worst comes to worst i could even bend the mesh so it comes into the grill alittle more covering up the cut completely and avoiding the need for the paint :D thanks heaps guys, ill probably try tackle it over the weekend! :)

Get the grill part painted black ( will cost $50 max from a spray painting shop) and mesh painted black too ( goto repco and buy a small can of black paint and take the mesh off then spray it). It will be less noticeable and the blacked out mesh will look better aswell

I did it to my car in the pic below

post-19216-1273716931_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gday, Due to not finding much up to date info on this topic I thought I'd make a thread to get peoples latest opinions/recommendations. Background info -  I've got a S1.5 R33 GTST as a fun project car, mainly for street use and occasional drag strip, apart from all the cosmetic things I'll be doing a full rebuild of the engine with forged internals. Since it'll be getting new cams (kelford) and springs to match I thought I might as well get new lifters and valves while I'm at it, the dash says 160k KMs but the engine seems pretty tired, compression measures about 130psi across all cylinders so I'd like to freshen everything up. This is where I'm tempted to just fork out the extra and go solid lifters while it's all apart, aiming for 400-450kw atw with a flex tune. Assuming all supporting mods (oiling, fuel and all bolt ons) with a lightly ported head and turbo to match (yet to make a decision possibly gtx3582r or similar from Hypergear) I've seen the Tomei kits with just the buckets getting around, Supertech sells most things - Supertech High Performance Cam Followers | Trusted Racing Cam Followers Questions -  Has anyone found the Hydraulic lifters to limit them at this power level? Is it usually found that you can just clean the stock lifters and find they work fine?  Does going solid lifters save any headaches/issues with hydraulic lifters in the future? Any recommendations on other things that will need to be replaced, I know I'll need to get the solid profile cams but can you use the same type of valves and springs/retainers and is it recommended to change the guides and stem seals?    Summary -  Basically looking for pros/cons and wanna know if I'll actually need the extra RPMs from solid lifters or it'll just be bragging rights to say it ReVs OvEr 8000 Cheers
    • Ha ha ha, this stuff they had was installing Toshiba PLCs that were made some time in the 1990s, and they were replacing GEM80 PLCs. To let those two talk (staged upgrade along a ~1.2km long building that was split into 4 sections), was a bunch of WinXP machines running Java gateways... There was no way to put something like ProfiSafe in... Most of the HMI machines were WinXP, with Java program, with a custom button board emulating a keyboard... About the only buttons in the operator stations that went direct to the PLCs was the eStop. There was some interesting design stuff in that place...
    • Stock bypass valves are good for plenty of boost.
    • Check for fuel flow out of the outlet end of the rail. Check for spark. Try to start with aerostart (or pressure can brake cleaner or similar solvent in a car) prayed in through TB. If you have fuel and you have spark and it will fire on substitute fuel, then seriously suspect that E85 sitting for ages in your fuel system has destroyed something and put it in your injectors.
    • Nissan stock oil pressure is typically about 1 bar at 1000 rpm plus about 1 bar per thousand revs on top.
×
×
  • Create New...