What Ecu Should I Get?

[jordanlisa69]

Right, time to get some expert help here.

Ive got a r33 series 1 factory manual rb25det with a poddie, boost tap running 7 psi, split downpipe to a 3 inch straight threw.

I need to upgrade the ecu because the standard ecu isnt letting me boost 10psi or over.

So what to get? i have read a lot about link and power fc. And really like the sound of how the power fc works.

I want to know what will be the best for my car out of any ecu you can get? I want to run 11psi.

Or what other options do i have?

Cheers guys!

Edited May 9, 2010 by jordanlisa69

[BTM]

PowerFC is the way to go for a simple plug and play.

If you're happy to run an RB20 computer, you can have that remapped to whatever specs you need.

Don't both with full wire in management for such simple mods, as both the options above will support you to insane set ups.

[PM-R33]

Ok first question, why can't you run 10 or more psi? What do you mean by the ECU isn't letting you?

Edited May 9, 2010 by PM-R33

[ryan101]

Nistune, best bang for the buck

[89CAL]

Ok first question, why can't you run 10 or more psi? What do you mean by the ECU isn't letting you?

Mine was the same on stock ecu. Wind boost up above 8psi or so I think it was and at around 4500rpm it would just cut the engine an ud get this massive horrible stutter. Like really massive throw u forward in the seat kinda stutter lol

[jordanlisa69]

Ok first question, why can't you run 10 or more psi? What do you mean by the ECU isn't letting you?

It goes into R&R mode. Sounds like its boosting but doesnt go anywhere at all

[jordanlisa69]

BTW Im in New Zealand

[BTM]

Nistune, best bang for the buck

Nistune is only for 34s. 33s require an RB20 computer to be chipped to run.

[GTScotT]

+1 for R&R over 10 psi

I am running a stock SMIC tho, which i suspect may be holding it back. with the change in AFs once an FMIC goes on i think i may be able to run over the 10psi.

This is not the first skyline I have thought the o2 sensor has effected R&R.

[SKYPER]

Knock???

If knock is detected or there's something on engine creating excessive noise (failing coilpack, wide sparkplug gap, loose mounting bracket, etc), knock sensor can make stock ECU switch to knock maps (some people know it as rich, retard, but the real name is knock maps). Knock ignition map on stock R33 ECU has O degrees of ignition timing when engine is on boost, foot to the floor, so that's probably why engine doesn't want to rev. I would suggest running higher octane gas, check for failing coilpack, check for wide sparkplug gap, check for anything loose on engine to see if it cures the problem.

If above doesn't cure the problem, then Link G4 ECU with optional IAT (Inlet Air Temp) sensor. Link G4 ECU has onboard barometric compensation for altitude and VCT control -

http://www.linkecu.com/products/engine-man...-ecus/g4-xtreme

Edited May 9, 2010 by SKYPER

[ryan101]

Sorry nistune, you would either need a rb20 ecu or a z32 ecu

[delljit]

Get nistune.. the good tuners will have no problem fitting a z32 ecu which will let you keep vct

[adis]

MINES ecu if you can find one.

Supports basic mods such as yours, no tuning needed. I had two, both ran safe AFR's even tho everyone else said they wouldnt run safe AFR's, wrong!

Made over 200kw with each one of em.

You buy it, plug and play, and for piece of mind pay 80 bux for power run just so you can double check that ARFs are safe. Save on tune 900 bux which you never get back.

[GTScotT]

+1 for faultless results from mines and blitz PnP ecu's in various cars Ive had exp with.

Re Z32 nistuned for R33: Spoke to unigroup week before last who advised against this as apposed to a PFC. I was told the Z32 would have some issues crossing over and may seem buggy. And according to the tuner at unigroup the VCT is too valuable to ditch for the sake of an RB20 ecu, something to the tune of 80% more power at boost threshold @ 3000rpm.

Their results are always excellent, so Im running with their advice for my setup.

[KiwiRS4T]

BTW Im in New Zealand

Where are you in NZ? EFI in Christchurch can remap your R33 ecu (make it tunable and tune it for you) or there are a number of people around the country who can fit a chipped ecu. A Link at $1800 would be better than a PFC but tunable chip would cost a fraction of that price.

If you're not planning any more mods an SAFC would sove your problem. To my knowledge Mines ecus are not user tunable so they will only suit one particular set up optimally (although they may run other cars).

[adis]

"To my knowledge Mines ecus are not user tunable so they will only suit one particular set up optimally (although they may run other cars)."

Correct, but if you are planning on only running minor mods, such as exhaust, cooler, pod and coilpack with 10-14psi, this is the ecu for you. No tune, no worries, great results, great instant results.

SAFC you need to buy it$$$

Connect it $$$

Tune it $$$

(all those costs for basic mods? I wouldn't, but that's my opinion).

[jordanlisa69]

Knock???

If knock is detected or there's something on engine creating excessive noise (failing coilpack, wide sparkplug gap, loose mounting bracket, etc), knock sensor can make stock ECU switch to knock maps (some people know it as rich, retard, but the real name is knock maps). Knock ignition map on stock R33 ECU has O degrees of ignition timing when engine is on boost, foot to the floor, so that's probably why engine doesn't want to rev. I would suggest running higher octane gas, check for failing coilpack, check for wide sparkplug gap, check for anything loose on engine to see if it cures the problem.

If above doesn't cure the problem, then Link G4 ECU with optional IAT (Inlet Air Temp) sensor. Link G4 ECU has onboard barometric compensation for altitude and VCT control -

http://www.linkecu.com/products/engine-man...-ecus/g4-xtreme

Spark is absolutely pure ae, i gapped new sparkplugs to .8mm and have new dsr heavy duty coils. and nothing is loose around the engine bay.

I can half throttle it on 8psi all the way threw the rev range but once she gets near 10 its all over.

[jordanlisa69]

Where are you in NZ? EFI in Christchurch can remap your R33 ecu (make it tunable and tune it for you) or there are a number of people around the country who can fit a chipped ecu. A Link at $1800 would be better than a PFC but tunable chip would cost a fraction of that price.

If you're not planning any more mods an SAFC would sove your problem. To my knowledge Mines ecus are not user tunable so they will only suit one particular set up optimally (although they may run other cars).

Im in Christchurch and have heard about them. but a link g4, from what i have read, would just be a waste of money as i could get the same result from a pfc?

[HEKT1K]

"To my knowledge Mines ecus are not user tunable so they will only suit one particular set up optimally (although they may run other cars)."

Correct, but if you are planning on only running minor mods, such as exhaust, cooler, pod and coilpack with 10-14psi, this is the ecu for you. No tune, no worries, great results, great instant results.

SAFC you need to buy it$$

Connect it $$

Tune it $$

(all those costs for basic mods? I wouldn't, but that's my opinion).

potentially cook your engine with unknown tune $$$$$$$

[jordanlisa69]

I have found out some info on the link and pfc comparing them to eachother.

unless your running over 600hp then the link will not be any benefit to me what so over compared to the power fc.

The power fc comes standard with a base map for my car which for when it is running rich it leans it out a tiny bit but you can set up the check engine light for when you want it to flash sensing as much knock as you like.

Im yet to find the g4 that plugs and plays as good as the power fc does?

and i am looking at a mines ecu also but i read they richen it up and make it even worse on gas so that its more safe for your engine.

And to adis, did you literally just buy it and plug it in and you had 200kw? or did it need a tune for your car? Because the mines comes suitable for a r32 and r33 but r33 has vct so it sounds like they would need to be tuned for your car on a rolling dyno or something?