Genuine Nissan 7.5w30 engine oil

[bendertiger]

Castrol type r racing, 5-30w, compare the back of that pack to a genuine nissan oil, the castrol will ****ing beat the nissan 100%. As for filters, I'd bet you $30 that they are rebadged shit from taiwan or somewhere, just keep popping in repco filters every service and your laughing, oh, and I change oil every 5000.

[GTST33]

Thanks turtle

[Gson]

just got the castrol R synth 10w 60...took the car for another hard spin last night! seems to work fine! the oil pressure stays real high.... i suppose this thicker oil will hold it pressure a lot better than thin oil!

[JimX]

Why do you think higher oil pressure is better? I used Castrol synthetic for around a year (5000km drain interval) and it ended up blocking a lifter. Look up the comparisons of synthetic oils, the wear properties of Castrol is average at best. You can buy better for the same money (Motul, Mobil, Fuchs, etc).

[Gson]

Why do you think higher oil pressure is better?

i have just allways thought that a low oil pressure is bad! but i suppose you CAN go too far the other way!

well i will put a different oil in next time!

[Bobby^]

I just replaced my oil with Castrol Magnatec 10W 40 and a repco filter and the car seems to run much better. Ive decided to just move thru all the different types of oil that people recommend. 1 down, 20 to go.

On a side note, my car sits on 1/4 pressure at idle and up to 3/4 at full.

[R33_KRAZY]

ne1 thouht of using a slightly thinker oil an jus putting a higher capacity sump on ur motor if ur gonna give it a belting....thats wat i do..works fine presure anlwayz stays good...bout half an i neva have 2 worry about not being ne oil there 2 pump up...can ne tell me if this is actually the right way 2 go about it..???? thanx

[Beer Baron]

its just plain old mineral oil that some oil company makes for nissan

Actually it's not. It's a blended (or semi-synthetic) oil.

Richard

[RedBaron]

Hi guys,

A silly question, but what is a "normal" oil pressure level?

Thanks

[Jimbo2000]

2ish

i use 10-30 penzoil

[GTST33]

Hi guys im wanting to know what Motul 300V oil you would recommend (viscosity), 10w40, 15w50, etc, which one would you recommend? My car is pretty stock just exhaust, BOV, air filter.

[Amaru]

I use Motul 300V Chrono 10W40 and the stuff works brilliantly for me...

[Koshi]

I use GReddy GR-1 5w-30 for aggressive weekend night driving, and GR-2 10w-40 for the summer times here where it can reach over 100 F ambient.

[Lupes]

Bit of a bump. Since it hasn't been explained properly, the viscosity of the oil is one of the most important factors when deciding which oil to use.

Newer engines use thinner oils because they have much smaller tolerances than older higher mileage engines. As rings, bearings, lifters etc wear these tolerances become larger, and a thicker oil can be used to take up the gap and reduce wear that would be caused if a thinner oil was used.

Viscosity is a little tricky to explain, but I'll try to make it easy.

For an oil to be classed as say a 5W oil, it needs to be able to flow a certain amount at a low temperature. This first number is the oil's "cold" viscosity.

The standards for measuring oil viscosity are determined by the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) and all engine oils use the SAE's standards for measuring viscosity.

The "W" suffix simply means that the oil is suitable for use during winter, meaning the oil will not become too thick under the lower overnight temperatures (usually only oils with a cold viscosity of 20 or lower will be classed for winter use, although I have seen a few 25W oils)

The second number is the oil's "hot" viscosity. This is a little harder to explain. Multigrade oils contain polymers which react under heat, and actually expand as they become hot. This is what prevents multigrade oils from becoming too thin under hot conditions. That's all well and good, but what does this second number have to do with that?

If you were to warm a monograde 40 weight oil to a high temperature (I say high temp because I'm not sure myself what temperature they measure the oil viscosity at), it would be thinner than a 15 weight oil at cool temperature.

So, if you were to test a 15W-40 engine oil, it would have the viscosity of a monograde 15 weight oil at it's low temperature, and when warmed up it would have the viscosity of a monograde 40 weight oil at a high temperature.

Hope that makes sense.

Edited May 24, 2009 by Lupes

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

Bit of a bump. Since it hasn't been explained properly, the viscosity of the oil is one of the most important factors when deciding which oil to use.

Newer engines use thinner oils because they have much smaller tolerances than older higher mileage engines. As rings, bearings, lifters etc wear these tolerances become larger, and a thicker oil can be used to take up the gap and reduce wear that would be caused if a thinner oil was used.

Viscosity is a little tricky to explain, but I'll try to make it easy.

For an oil to be classed as say a 5W oil, it needs to be able to flow a certain amount at a low temperature. This first number is the oil's "cold" viscosity.

The standards for measuring oil viscosity are determined by the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) and all engine oils use the SAE's standards for measuring viscosity.

The "W" suffix simply means that the oil is suitable for use during winter, meaning the oil will not become too thick under the lower overnight temperatures (usually only oils with a cold viscosity of 20 or lower will be classed for winter use, although I have seen a few 25W oils)

The second number is the oil's "hot" viscosity. This is a little harder to explain. Multigrade oils contain polymers which react under heat, and actually expand as they become hot. This is what prevents multigrade oils from becoming too thin under hot conditions. That's all well and good, but what does this second number have to do with that?

If you were to warm a monograde 40 weight oil to a high temperature (I say high temp because I'm not sure myself what temperature they measure the oil viscosity at), it would be thinner than a 15 weight oil at cool temperature.

So, if you were to test a 15W-40 engine oil, it would have the viscosity of a monograde 15 weight oil at it's low temperature, and when warmed up it would have the viscosity of a monograde 40 weight oil at a high temperature.

Hope that makes sense.

Yes that make sense.

I was told that, with R32's, since they are older cars, "Back in the day", the engineers only had mainly Mineral Based engine oil hence that's why they used mineral based oil while designing the car...

If this is true, is there any point putting in a Fully Synthetic based engine oil in a older car..?

This relates back to your 2nd sentence... So is it OK to use Fully Synthetic based engine oil or would it be BETTER to use the Mineral Based engine oil..?

[Lupes]

The only problems I have heard of with swapping from mineral oil to synthetic oil is that some synthetic oils contain more detergents which remove carbon deposits from within the engine, which can potentially create leaks as the deposits can act as sealants to old gaskets etc. The other thing you need to think about is viscosity of course, because most synthetic oils are low-viscosity, running thin oil in an old engine will usually result in the engine burning off the oil between changes.

If the engine has been looked after previously you shouldn't have much of a problem, and I would always choose a synthetic over mineral in a rebuilt engine (with an exception to the running-in period)

Edited June 10, 2009 by Lupes

[(OO)SKYLINE(OO)]

The only problems I have heard of with swapping from mineral oil to synthetic oil is that some synthetic oils contain more detergents which remove carbon deposits from within the engine, which can potentially create leaks as the deposits can act as sealants to old gaskets etc. The other thing you need to think about is viscosity of course, because most synthetic oils are low-viscosity, running thin oil in an old engine will usually result in the engine burning off the oil between changes.

If the engine has been looked after previously you shouldn't have much of a problem, and I would always choose a synthetic over mineral in a rebuilt engine (with an exception to the running-in period)

Yeah sure...

Others have said to me the similar things you just said.

Thanks for that buddy!

[numleg]

Yes that make sense.

I was told that, with R32's, since they are older cars, "Back in the day", the engineers only had mainly Mineral Based engine oil hence that's why they used mineral based oil while designing the car...

If this is true, is there any point putting in a Fully Synthetic based engine oil in a older car..?

This relates back to your 2nd sentence... So is it OK to use Fully Synthetic based engine oil or would it be BETTER to use the Mineral Based engine oil..?

^This is something i have been told by a few people in the tuning/performance industry.

Given that the RB26/25/20 is an old motor(s) designed in the 1980's when oil technology was nothing like what we have today, I see no reason why a good quality mineral oil of the correct weight and changed regularly (5000km) will not provide good long term protection for an RB motor.

However as soon as you change turbos (specificaly roller/ball bearing) you are adding a much newer component built and designed around much newer/better oil technology. At this point i would say yes you do need to move on to modern semi-synth/full synth oils.

But as I change oil at <5000km service intervals, I figure the oil doesn't get to the point of breaking down and failing to provide proper protection. As such I dont see any need to buy top priced oils which are developed to work better over longer periods of time.

[Godzilla34]

I buy woolworths motor oil

[SargeRX8]

I put the new penrite hpr stuff, extra 10 full synthetic. I get a much more comfortable oil pressure with this than I did with the every day stuff. I used to use expensive oils but it really is a waste if you just drive the car as a daily IMO. $40 a bottle too. Used to cost me almost double before.