Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm looking at importing a 1989 R32 GTS-t through Prestige Motorsport within the next few months (to have it imported after May). Obviously, I need to get a car built in May, but I'll persevere.

Anyway, I want to find out how much most people spent on compliancing their R32's, so I know how much money I'll have to spent on the car itself. It seems most examples go for around $8000, inc. the broker's fee, and exc. compliancing.

I have about $10000 all up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/32001-r32-gts-t-import-advice/
Share on other sites

$1500 sounds about the average price (still damn expensive though). It depends on what the R32 needs to be complied -- hopefully it has a few of the things (retractable lap-sash rears and a high rear brake light, for starters) already.

It'd be great if I could do it myself, it all just depends on what needs to be done.

Oh, and I need to know if people on their P's are allowed to drive R32's... From what I know, I think they are; the girlfriend of my mate's brother drives her boyfriends (my mates brother) R33 GTS25t; and she is on her P's.

Just want to get things absolutely clear; I've read that in a couple of states P platers can't drive some GTS-t's (eg. R33's), but are allowed to drive others (R32's).

you can drive anything you want.................for a price :cheers:

expect insurance 2 be around 3grand

yeh and compliance is a major rip off and half the compliancers do crap jobs

so if you know a friend that can do it 4 you or if you can do it yourself its prob a good idea

Just Car quoted me $3200 a year; inc. pod, exhaust, racing pedals + $1000 stereo. 3rd Party Fire + Theft is only $650, with the same mods, so I'm definitely getting that.

I'd still like to know what the R32 GTS-t needs to be complied, though.

Oh, and I know the general parts needed to comply, but I am referring to the R32 specifically.

it's not my place to say this, but prestige motorsport should really be able to tell you what needs doing.

their fee is enough that you shouldnt feel guilt about asking any, or too many, stupid questions.

I'm not up to speed on what is required to comply a 15yo import, but under RAWS the r32s need to have dotars compliant side intrusion bars welded into the doors.

this might be different with the 15 year scheme tho.

Oh, and I know the general parts needed to comply, but I am referring to the R32 specifically.

Mate if you go to Prestige Motorsports website it tells you on there what you need to do

It's stuff like side mirror, high mount stop light, child restraints, fuel filler cap etc

Its all on there though hey

Mate if you go to Prestige Motorsports website it tells you on there what you need to do

It's stuff like side mirror, high mount stop light, child restraints, fuel filler cap etc

Its all on there though hey

the best idea might actually be to ring dotars...since they are the people you ultimately have to convince.

but yeah, look into the side intrusion bars. they would be tricky to do yourself.

as for the rest of the stuff - flat mirrors etc, I guess the DIY may actually be a viable option.

James, did your brother need to get it engineered?

I agree with Zanda - Geoff has been importing a long time and will be able to answer just about all of your questions (if you cant find them on his website), Plus the money you paid him - should mean he provides you with a service as well as a car. I had no problems with Geoff - he's a friendly guy and was always happy to answer my questions - no matter how stupid!!

On your question with P PLaters not being allowed to drive certain cars - this law does not exist in WA - in the eastern states P Platers are restricted to a certain CC engine .

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Mate

To Tell you the Truth if you canget a GTST 32 for $10K in the road consider yourself lucky especially going through a Car Yard. The Hidden costs are Compliance, Tyres Stamp Duty Registrationm RWC Agency Fees fir Japan & Australia etc..

All up it will be costing you around 13-14k

So the question is is is really woth it for a 89 model GTST 32 where you can already pick on up in the country 1992-1993 for around $15-16

At least you can test drive the car etc,,

My Advise is please think again..

Thanks

Just a side note: I dont think just cars insure cars in WA

memphis, my r33 GTS-T is with JUST CARS, hmm and i live in good old WA, so he shouldnt have any problem.

TIP: if you are going 2 get a import at young age best way for insurance is

3rd Party for a year

then change 2 full cover after that and the price with change by half

Just Car quoted me $3200 a year; inc. pod, exhaust, racing pedals + $1000 stereo. 3rd Party Fire + Theft is only $650, with the same mods, so I'm definitely getting that.  

 

I'd still like to know what the R32 GTS-t needs to be complied, though.

$3200 that is cheap i got quote $4100 with me as 1st drive/ oldman as second driver.

but i guess my car value is alittle bit higher than a r32 ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's nothing that some paddle pop sticks and extra cable ties can't fix.
    • Hey guys, so Golebys has good prices on Bosch injectors, and also sell an adaptor to go from 1/2 length injector to standard with the Nissan 10.5mm top seal.  Does anyone know if that adaptor is to suit the 14mm or 11mm injector tops?  And re. The bottom seal, to suit my standard RB20 intake, would I be right in saying I can just slip the 14mm square section O ring over the bottom of the new injector and done? Thanks in advance guy, Cheers, Rowdy
    • F my life. I was changing the oil on my R32 GTR today as usual and ran into a bit of a snag. I drained the oil out and was getting ready to finish the job by tightening the drain plug, however The stupid magnetic oil drain plug snapped in half, right at the magnet part. After about an hour of trying to remove it, I used a drill bit, which unfortunately pushed the magnet all the way into the pan, and just leaving the hollow threaded part of the bolt remaining. I was able to remove the hollow portion of the bolt from the oil pan with some pliers but the magnet is still in there.  So, the question is, should I drop the oil pan to get the magnet piece out, or is it okay to leave it in there? I really dont want to drop the pan, i'm about to go nuts.  PSA: Do NOT buy a BLOX magnetic drain plug. This is the one i had.    https://bloxracing.com/products/magnetic-oil-drain-plug-m12x1-25mm?variant=37131252859052&country=US&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw47i_BhBTEiwAaJfPpgti1D2JwO7TDuMpXuqeQPCuIQSAfwxpWQH5rF9MD7sm5SCZDWLR_RoC_YoQAvD_BwE    
    • I actually have an aftermarket hanger, the detschwerks x1 hanger, but my dw420 has never really sat in it correctly, good to know I can just modify it a bit to suit. Yeah cheers man will definitely have a play with it and hope it solves my dramas.
    • Seriously though, it's the Shaft Autoservice high mount rear spoiler: https://az-style.shop/items/5ffaad5a72eb464137a6edb1
×
×
  • Create New...