Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

somewhere on the motor assembly. you just have to look around, sorry can't help you anymore cos I'm not pulling my door apart again after spending 5 hours to get to my passenger door lock actuator! (posted a thread here too about that)

I found it on Pg 10....

Ok mine is working like new again after doing the simple reset. I thought I was gonna have to take out all of the bolts again but Nissan/Infiniti made it easy to reset the motor.

I dont know if I missed it, but to do the reset remove the 3 bolts holding the panel and it is behind the smaller sticker on the metal door piece. Remove the sticker and its a little nipple poking out.

With the door open roll the window completely up without using the auto function. (Barely lift up until the window rolls up.

Close the door with you inside the vehicle.

Hold the reset button down while you press the window switch down to roll the window down. Do not use the auto roll down.

After rolling it completely down give it a couple seconds and then release both buttons.

Now you roll the window completely up without using the auto function and give it a couple of seconds before releasing.

Now you should be good. Roll down the window to open the door from the outside.

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Hi guys,

I was having the window issue (passenger side) a few days ago and ended up cleaning out and reseting the motor. It worked for 2 days and then today coming home i put the windows down. a few min later I felt a bit hot and noticed it went back up on its own!! Tried putting it down again and no deal. Also the auto up/down when open/close the door isnt working again. Annoying!!.. specially when you put a couple of hours worth of work into it a few days ago... Anyway.. just wanted to confirm your thoughts, definately motor that needs replacing? or actuator? Where exactly is the actuator? Throughout all these DIY's i saw a lot of motor accessing/cleaning stuff but no actuator.. Forgive me if im blind..

thanks

  • 2 weeks later...

OK I got the know how to reset the motor. If your window wind down when you auto wind it up, or wind down when you close the door. Here is what my Uncle told me to do. He is a mechanic in Nissan Service Centre in Ipswich Motorway. After you take the motor with the gearbox out from the door frame. Plug the electrical back and turn ignition on. Start winding up or down the window using the switch, looking at the rotating shaft, count 8 numbers of turns. That will reset the motor and the limit switch.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's f**ked up. I'd guess it's more likely that you have an entire S13 subframe in there. Does it still have HICAS mounting points? Seeing as it is quite possible that yours is the only such converted car in the world, you'll probably struggle to find someone who can tell you from direct experience. 'Twere I you, I'd be looking for 4 stud Skyline rear brakes and convert back. At a minimum. Preferably go find all the stuff you need to put it back to 5 stud (assuming you're happy to change wheels) and upgrade to some decent brakes. You don't even need much stock stuff. Don't need calipers or rotors, as you can go fully aftermarket. Just needs hubs and the other bits and bobs that are different to what you have now.
    • The engine has nothing to do with it. The physical space behind the headlight is the limiting factor. And the height. The height of the NS70 is the same as stock. So the clamp bar across the top goes on nice. The battery tray is big enough for it to sit on. The X is for extra capacity - it has even more lead in it than the non-X NS70. Heavy f**ker. But it's not a track car, so I will suffer a couple of extra kg. In the case of the R34, maybe the physical space there is not as deep (forward-backward, not up down). Hence why they say the 60 is the biggest. But I would never trust a catalogue to tell me what will fit. I have the car. I have the existing battery. I have the tape measure. I have the dimensions of all the available batteries. I find the biggest box that will go in. (With the right terminals in the right places, of course).  
    • Hello! I have been having a hard time finding the answer to this question… I have a R32 GTS-T Sedan than has been 4 lug swapped using S13 hubs, rotors, and brakes. The front has also been converted to S13 suspension.    When the swap was completed, the handbrake cables were never hooked up, as the S13 rear calipers are the “handbrake”, and not the typical drum on rotor that the R chassis are. Does anyone know handbrake cables that will work for this conversion? I’d like to not use a hydraulic handbrake and stick with the traditional cable style. My original thoughts were to go with S14 cables and try to make them work, since I’m pretty sure S13 cables will be too short.    Any help would be appreciated!
    • I did some research, considering you have a neo engine, how is that battery compatible? I checked centuries website and super cheap and says it's not compatible. Only this full size one is. https://www.centurybatteries.com.au/products/ns60-mf
    • No, lets be honest here. I went to Winton and did a track day, for all the mods and V8 power and craziness I posted up a time that a K24 stock motor Honda Accord can do on the same tyres (narrower, too) 250kw and learning how to drive the f**kin thing is the sweet spot.
×
×
  • Create New...