Jump to content
SAU Community

Na Rb26 Autech

darrinspencer
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Nigel Nichols Explorer

Nigel Nichols

Posted
Posted

Its about what it is, not just how fast it can go. For some people speed and horsepower is not the only criteria for a car. Rarity, history or simply because they want to can be part of the reason for ownership.

Factory wise I understood the Autech RB26DE was pretty good on the power stakes.

I understand the RB26DE 217hp (162kw)

R32 RB20DE is only 155hp (115kw)

R32 RB20DET is 212hp (158kw)

Maybe the one they dragged was nackered. Bare in mind all 200 built were also autos. 4wd too I think.

Certianly if I was able to find and afford one of those R32 Autech RB26DE's I would. I wouldn't expect it to outrun a turbo

Wonder how many are left.

Nigel

R34 -_- Community Regular

R34 -_-

Posted
Posted
...

Right.

I am assuming now that your a bit thick. So I'll spell it out slowly and carefully just for you seeing that everyone else seems to know whats going on.

Engine 1) Autech RB26DE, same compression, no turbo, more expensive than a RB26DETT

Engine 2) RB26DETT, same compression, twin turbo, less expensive than the Autech

It costs more and is cheaper to just f**king well buy a proper RB26DETT in the first place and not have to f**k about with god damn routing lines and manifolds and all the other bulls**t.

WHY WOULD YOU BUY AND TURBO AN AUTECH RB26?!?!

ANSWERS TO ABOVE RHETORICAL QUESTION (as in it didn't need answering but you know what 'cause your slow I'll answer it anyway): If you bought an Autech you wanted rare. And if you bought an Autech instead of a GTR your not going to turbo it. 'Cause if you did you would be a grade a cock smoker because you could have bought an equivalent GTR for less money.

OR

You got an Autech RB26 for a pittance, for absolutely sweet f**k all.

Does that answer your question as to why you would and wouldn't turbo an Autech RB26?

Get f**ked you top bloke, go somewhere else and diss everyone you arrogant son of a bitch

racer98 Community Regular

racer98

Posted
Posted
WHY WOULD YOU BUY AND TURBO AN AUTECH RB26?!?!

did you bother to ask or do research on the block and crank spec as well many other items you forgot to touch on about the internal spec's on the motor and not to mention its a hand built motor built at Autech and was built on a completely different asembly line?

R34 -_- Community Regular

R34 -_-

Posted
Posted (edited)

Your all a bunch of f*kn idiots. Firstly i didn't say anything like hey turb the f**ker, i just said is it possible to turb it.

Secondly i only asked if u could turb it too see if there was any more room for more power as any car is better with more power (unless its already high hp) and if your going to fork out a shit load for it just for the right to say in a nerdy way " hey look at me i have an r32 autech, it may not be that quick and it may look like a normal gts but ITS AN AUTECH and its rare coz they didn't make many (coz there not that great) and its cool coz i payed lots for it"

Either way i don't give a f**k what u think or say i know what this car is, if your going to pay lots for an N/A you might as well pay a meesly few extra dollars (compared to the rip off price you'd pay for it) and bump up the power and if you want to bitch about that then im going to say just what you said "why the f**k would you..." buy an expensive slow N/A

(if you say its just for the title then your just one of those f**ked up people that need to have something they think is special and wave it about in other peoples faces for attention)

And bro if i put a lump of shit in your hands and said it was hand made on the planet mars would you be impressed?

Edited by R34 -_-
zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted
Your all a bunch of f*kn idiots. Firstly i didn't say anything like hey turb the f**ker, i just said is it possible to turb it.

Secondly i only asked if u could turb it too see if there was any more room for more power as any car is better with more power (unless its already high hp) and if your going to fork out a shit load for it just for the right to say in a nerdy way " hey look at me i have an r32 autech, it may not be that quick and it may look like a normal gts but ITS AN AUTECH and its rare coz they didn't make many (coz there not that great) and its cool coz i payed lots for it"

Either way i don't give a f**k what u think or say i know what this car is, if your going to pay lots for an N/A you might as well pay a meesly few extra dollars (compared to the rip off price you'd pay for it) and bump up the power and if you want to bitch about that then im going to say just what you said "why the f**k would you..." buy an expensive slow N/A

(if you say its just for the title then your just one of those f**ked up people that need to have something they think is special and wave it about in other peoples faces for attention)

And bro if i put a lump of shit in your hands and said it was hand made on the planet mars would you be impressed?

lol :(

sheepus Enthusiast

sheepus

Posted
Posted

funny shit, why do people buy 260rs stageas when a gtr is lighter and faster? because its different, why do people build L series motors when they could just drop in a rb? because its different, at the end of the day a r32 autech will always hold alot more value than a r32 gtr because people will appreciate it for what it is, not what it isnt, and yes, a lump of shit hand made from mars is pretty impressive

Nic_A31 Grand Master

Nic_A31

Posted
Posted

The car it was made for holds the value...not the engine.

Unless you're saying the RB26s in Stag's are the valuable bit and different? no...the :OFASTSTATIONWAGON part is different.

It's not hard to knock a couple of turbo's off and make an engine identical to the one in mention...the Auto, 4 Door, R32 is what's 'different' since only 200 were produced.

bens180 Explorer

bens180

Posted
Posted

well im just gona put it out there that if i came accross a auech rb26 id be bumping up the comp maybe 30 botom end, go itb and straight pipe that shit, along wif some insane cams, dump it into an s chassis and go hav urself some fun with a rare/fun (even tho yes expensive) setup.

just my opinion, cool find

  • 2 weeks later...
Gerg_R31 Mentor

Gerg_R31

Posted
Posted
Your all a bunch of f*kn idiots. Firstly i didn't say anything like hey turb the f**ker, i just said is it possible to turb it.

Secondly i only asked if u could turb it too see if there was any more room for more power as any car is better with more power (unless its already high hp) and if your going to fork out a shit load for it just for the right to say in a nerdy way " hey look at me i have an r32 autech, it may not be that quick and it may look like a normal gts but ITS AN AUTECH and its rare coz they didn't make many (coz there not that great) and its cool coz i payed lots for it"

Either way i don't give a f**k what u think or say i know what this car is, if your going to pay lots for an N/A you might as well pay a meesly few extra dollars (compared to the rip off price you'd pay for it) and bump up the power and if you want to bitch about that then im going to say just what you said "why the f**k would you..." buy an expensive slow N/A

(if you say its just for the title then your just one of those f**ked up people that need to have something they think is special and wave it about in other peoples faces for attention)

And bro if i put a lump of shit in your hands and said it was hand made on the planet mars would you be impressed?

.... somebody lit the fuse on your tampon string

R34 -_- Community Regular

R34 -_-

Posted
Posted
.... somebody lit the fuse on your tampon string

let me guess your one of those ignorant dumb asses that skim through threads until you notice something and then post a reply to it without even knowing what its about? good job your opinions must be of real value and use to everyone yea?

Gerg_R31 Mentor

Gerg_R31

Posted
Posted
let me guess your one of those ignorant dumb asses that skim through threads until you notice something and then post a reply to it without even knowing what its about? good job your opinions must be of real value and use to everyone yea?

let me guess you take shit too literally and personally?

I have read the entire thread, and i understand that the rb26de autech was a rare motor, and you were asking if it can be turboed, but then others saying it becomes a rb26de+t which cheaper option would have been a rb26det which would be exactly the same minus the wank factor of having a rare motor that has been turboed,

then you blew up went ape shit then called n/a motors expensive and slow, you dont give a shit what others think blah blah yet you were so busy explaining yourself so obviously you do, or maybe you got no actual knowledge and expressing yourself online made you feel more of a man

end result you should probably take a deep breath and think twice about making yourself sound like a tool again

/end bullshit

(hope this gets it back on topic)

Owgasm Grand Master

Owgasm

Posted
Posted
let me guess your one of those ignorant dumb asses that skim through threads until you notice something and then post a reply to it without even knowing what its about? good job your opinions must be of real value and use to everyone yea?

Sheep.

R34 -_- Community Regular

R34 -_-

Posted
Posted (edited)

Haha nah actually mate (actuall f*k off ur not my mate) i only "blew up" coz some dick just like you dissed me for asking about turbn the na 26, so i defended myself in saying "why not' turb it if u were going to pay out the arse for an N/A motor and as for the wank factor??? if someone was to turb a rare motor that would pretty much be the same as the standard rb26 and cost more... pfft what your trying to say is that the only reason you'd buy a non turb rb26 is coz its rare and different regardless of its power you'd rather have the N/A over the T, and if for some reason down the track you wanted more power if you put a turbo on it your instantly a wanker? haha now that bit is just bullshit.

And about that 2nd to last piece of shit you typed maybe you should think twice about posting a reply with a single lined insult that didn't have anything to do with you and further more you didn't even mention anything about the autech, if you wana cut the bullshit and get back on topic why'd u join in and carry on someone else's argument from like 3 weeks ago.

/end bullshit

(hope this gets it back on topic)

Edited by R34 -_-
Raysboostin Mentor

Raysboostin

Posted
Posted

to be honest i couldnt care less how "rare" that engine is. if i went up to any regular car guy and told them i had an NA rb26 they would piss themselves laughing quickly followed by "why would u take the turbos off a gtr engine??" an engine like that is only any good to a collector or 1 of the 50 ppl in aus that would actually know about it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Really? That's piss weak. I didn't know they hobbled the shitboxen that badly. OK. So probs need to buy a flywheel too. But that's not too bad.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Hi all. I already posted some newbie-ish questions here and there but this will be my first "big" post. Last summer I went and fulfilled a kind of childhood wish, because I just thought I needed this experience in my life no matter what. The car I bought is a mildly modded 1995 BCNR33 Vspec. It was repainted to a metallic orange color all around and it had all windows reseated. Not so well done black respray in the trunk and a metallic black in the engine bay. From outside it looks very nice except for a minor paint error on the roof and the rear spats needing new adhesive tape. The inside is pretty clean and no broken plastics, missing or faded buttons. Even the adjustable mirrors and trunk antenna work like a charm. Despite a moderately long list of issues I don't (yet) regret buying this car. Most mechanical problems are just due to age, like worn rubbers here and there. The underside sadly has lots of corrosion, especially to the back. It looks like it either has been driven in the winter for a while or it lived near the saltwater in Japan, the rust is nothing terrible but it'll require to be looked after. Mostly panel gaps and all the mounted components underneath are a bit crusty, but I don't think anywhere has progressed so badly that there's going to be holes. Front right jacking rail is crushed and needs some care so it doesn't develop into a rust crater at some point. Worst part is definitely the strut towers. I thought they looked fine but after taking off the strut bar I noticed that it actually started bulging up on the passenger side. Probably would have passed on the car or negotiated down by some thousand Euros more if I had noticed this before buying, but here we are. Trunk area also has signs that there was a water leak to the interior once but nothing too crazy, I guess lots of Skylines had this at some point. As for the list of (known) issues, I'll try to make this compact. I hope the coloring is self explanatory. Mechanical: -Various busted or soon-to-be busted rubber bushings and ball joints. Will replace ball joints with OEM or better and bushings with polyurethane where possible. -Shaking steering wheel at above 80kph -downshift from 5th to 4th is a bit crunchy unless I rev-match, might just try to renew the shifter assembly, but it's not a priority issue -tailshaft centre bearing could use a replacement, is it worth going 1-piece tailshaft as it doesn't look too fresh all around? Chassis: -underbody corrosion on many spots and in hollow spaces, needs to be treated -corrosion on many bolts, hoses, lines, suspension components, subframes, will be treated when replacing of the bushings is needed as time goes on -strut tower top panels and some of the surrounding panels are rusty, so needs fixing. Will look into doing this with a buddy in the winter, otherwise bite the bullet and pay a professional -driver side door is misaligned to the body and needs to go a slight bit more inwards -both door windows are misaligned and have an airgap where the window meets the door at the B pillar -The Aerocatch latches for the bonnet have locks but no keys, need new keys. -driver side door window is kind of gritty and could use a polish -damaged jacking rails and front frame rails, from people lifting the car the wrong way, might have this fixed by a bodyshop Electrical: -Nismo tachometer is just bouncing and displaying nonsense, supposedly worked fine when the stock ECU was still in the car -An old Greddy boost controller sits on the dash which will be removed as it servers no purpose anymore. -a led segment rpm gauge is on the steering column, will probably also be (re-)moved once the Nismo tacho is working correctly -there was an attempt to make the sound system better by the previous owner but it was just inducing noise all the time, ripped out the amp and filters in the back, no music for now -trunk antenna goes up as long as the radio is on regardless of the mode, I want it to only rise if I choose Radio specifically or per switch -3rd brake light is a bit dimmer than the taillights but everything was converted to LEDs so mabye now it just seems dimmer? -reverse light flickers, have to test if that behavior changes when I fiddle with the gear stick. Hope I can get around changing the switch. -Left side taillight, blinker section has minor water intake and is humid after washing. Other side has a hole in it, probably for that exact reason. I'll probably reseal them entirely and plug the holes. Engine: -minor coolant drips on one or the other hose -rear turbo leaks oil onto the exhaust making the car essentially undriveable due to fire hazard -Oil filter relocation kit has an oil drip at the Dash lines, will probably make a new connection there and tighten real good and pray -throttle body assembly is slightly stuck for the first throttle pedal input after sitting for a while I'm always open to suggestions and advice from more experienced people, I'm sure half of this list is easily dealt with and just requires some time and effort to sort out properly. Once I have some proper pictures of the car I will post some in this thread, I just have to remember to take some more once I get the chance to. Will post updates when I have news on anything, I want to try to keep this thread as kind of a logbook as well. Ultimately my goal for this car is to just enjoy it. An engine rebuild is probably going to happen sometime as well, because it is old after all. It will never be fully new again, I am just not that rich. But I want it to look good, work well and not rot away while I drive it. I'm probably gonna spend a lot of money on this journey, hopefully not an unreasonable amount.
    • sunsetR33
      braided lines for the turbos

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Hi all. So one of my major issues at the moment is my rear turbo leaking oil on the exhaust (and the general area). I presumed it was the rock hard super old drain hose, which it was not. So now I am in the midst of removing the rear turbo to get access to the banjo bolt that goes into the turbo oil feed. As one of the previous owners accidentally? tore off the OEM oil feed hardline that reaches behind the turbo, they ran braided lines directly to the turbo, presumably PTFE. Now, regardless if the line has rubber or teflon inside, is it just generally a bad idea to do this? I imagine these lines get quite hot being between the engine, turbo core and exhaust manifold. I suppose it's not too far fetched to think the line may even have melted. I'd love to hear your opinions on this as as the replacement OEM hardline piece is 130 per unit. And cutting open the currently mounted line to see inside will mean I just have to get a replacement either way. So far I am hoping maybe the bolt just loosened or (god forbid) they forgot one of the crush washers.
    • WMDC35
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By WMDC35 · Posted

      If it's a factory 20de manual probably has the 6 bolt flywheel in which case the det clutches won't work as they're 9 bolt.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      All RB push clutches are interchangeable. AFAIK, the 4cyl ones are not. Different flywheels. The RB small box is not identical to the 4cyl boxes. Just very similar.
×
×
  • Create New...