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Rb2530 Or Rb26? In An R33

On Edge

By On Edge,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Motor choice  

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On Edge Veteran

On Edge

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi, i have been finally joined the broken RB club. :D

I have been considering many options of late in regards to what motor to build or throw into my GTS-T

The car is setup for track work and once this saga is over i would very much like to see it back on the track,

My goal is to have around 300rwkw that is reliable, an leave the motors almost untouched internally

I have the ability to build a 2530 or buy an rb26, so people in the know could you please give me some opinions

and also what is required for the rb26 to work eg. sump info.

Voice your opinion

what motor should i go for???

Edited by ON EDGE
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https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320346-rb2530-or-rb26-in-an-r33/
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PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted

Well really you got to think. You have an RB25 in there allready (not sure how modified it is, but if it does have a lot of aftermarket parts, you can use them all), so the most cost effective and easiest conversion is the 30 bottom end.

On Edge Veteran

On Edge

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  PM-R33 said:
Well really you got to think. You have an RB25 in there allready (not sure how modified it is, but if it does have a lot of aftermarket parts, you can use them all), so the most cost effective and easiest conversion is the 30 bottom end.

well true your right i have the parts for a 270-300rwkw setup, but would the rb26 have a logical reason to put it in????

zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted
  ON EDGE said:
well true your right i have the parts for a 270-300rwkw setup, but would the rb26 have a logical reason to put it in????

Well if thats the case than there isnt really a need for a 26.

If the motor was bog stock than i'd suggest 26 but not if it means buying turbos, injectors etc all over again

TiTAN Grand Master

TiTAN

Posted
Posted

expect to spend a couple thousand if you just want to drop your mods onto the 25/30 (money to cover block modification to suit RB25 head + misc modifications to make the loom/water lines etc fit. (more if you aren't doing the engine in/out work yourself)

i assume you have an R33? all the sensors/engine mounts/ballancer/water pump/oil pump etc bolt up to the block. careful using an RB25 sump make sure it doesn't have the fins that stick up below cyls 4-5 as the crank will hit them.

On Edge Veteran

On Edge

Posted
  • Author
Posted

would i get away with just using an rb30 sump??

  TiTAN said:
expect to spend a couple thousand if you just want to drop your mods onto the 25/30 (money to cover block modification to suit RB25 head + misc modifications to make the loom/water lines etc fit. (more if you aren't doing the engine in/out work yourself)

i assume you have an R33? all the sensors/engine mounts/ballancer/water pump/oil pump etc bolt up to the block. careful using an RB25 sump make sure it doesn't have the fins that stick up below cyls 4-5 as the crank will hit them.

rad100 Grand Master

rad100

Posted
Posted

nismoid..

this is the exact reason i didnt go rb2530 as the cops here in adelaide would send u over the pits as soon as the car rolled out the driveways which would mean that the car would have to have another rb25 dropped into it for it to pass insepction.. too much trouble IMO!

rb25 is a good engine.. just stick with that if its a streeter..

On Edge Veteran

On Edge

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  rad32 said:
nismoid..

this is the exact reason i didnt go rb2530 as the cops here in adelaide would send u over the pits as soon as the car rolled out the driveways which would mean that the car would have to have another rb25 dropped into it for it to pass insepction.. too much trouble IMO!

rb25 is a good engine.. just stick with that if its a streeter..

ive buggered the bottom end, no point staying with it imo when i can upgrade, may as well while its broken. Rb30 should resemble some sort of low down torque unlike the 25.

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