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Picked up my car from Unigroup engineering today

Results are as follows

GCG r33 gtst housing high flow pumped out 254.7kw at the wheels but detuned to 243.8 due to intake pipe gettin vacummed sucked.

Specs are as follows

Greddy profec 2 boost controler

Bosch 040 intank fuel pump

Standard air box with filter

R33 gtst GCG high flow turbo

3inch dump pipe and exhaust in stainless with a xforce twin tip muffler for the sleeper look

Just jap return flow front mount intercooler painted matt black

Nismo 555 cc injectors

Z32 air flow meter

Power fc

NGK coppers .8 gap

Standard coils

The 185.5kw was made on stock turbo, SMIC, standard airflow meter, standard air box and 3 inch exhaust, at 12psi

post-68689-1273663809_thumb.jpg

Ive actually taken the time to look at alot of results, and no matter how mild or wild the setup, the exhaust cam gear being retarded 3 or 4 degrees seems to tune out that dip before 4000rpm when using stock cams.

If you check, most setups that have stock cams will have that dip bar those with the exh cam gear. You may want to look into that along with the rev210 intake mod.

Great results too, congrats :P

Thanks for support guys.

Thank God for SAU, great resource of knowledge and Top bunch of blokes.

i am very pleased with the result however i will need to sort out that intake pipe issue. i just finished reading the how to guide and its an option. Are there any other intake options available eg aftermarket.

ideally i am trying to keep the car looking very stock and sleeper looking. not interested in attention as its all about the go for me.

One more thing, the car seems to be hooking up well with very limited wheel spin. I was expecting spin city but the car feels refined and linear in its power delivery. I am running stockies and they hardly brake traction when comming on boost. A little side ways action is all i get.

have others experienced this with 250kw?

it depends on suspension setup/tyre choice/how hard and fast the power ramps up.

if i put lots of preload into my wastegate its all in a little after ~3500rpm and pushing 300+kw and steps out in 3rd but if i back the preload off and the boost ramps up much slower it holds on in 2nd fine and almost holds 1st with only 235 rubber

Got practically the same (245awkw) in my Stagea with GCG turbo and same gear as yours but chipped ecu instead of pfc (chart in rb25 section). Had a adjustable exhaust cam gear - set it to 4deg ret as per SK's suggestion and a year later when i got it set on dyno the ideal setting was near enough 4deg bang on. Stagea being awd and lsd did not spin wheels with 17/245 8in rims in the dry.

i am very pleased with the result however i will need to sort out that intake pipe issue. i just finished reading the how to guide and its an option. Are there any other intake options available eg aftermarket.

ideally i am trying to keep the car looking very stock and sleeper looking. not interested in attention as its all about the go for me.

We sound very similar in that regard!

I have also been on the search for an intake pipe to connect from the airbox to the standard turbo compressor inlet. The how to guide is supposed to be very effective. I was going to spray the metal pipe black as well for even more stealth.

The only aftermarket one I have found is:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SILICON-INTAKE-PIPE...=item255a132f3d

When I ask him whether it will bolt up to the std airbox he keeps saying "yes it should", which is not the sort of rock solid answer I am after.

The guys on here keep saying to get someone to make a custom one up.

We sound very similar in that regard!

I have also been on the search for an intake pipe to connect from the airbox to the standard turbo compressor inlet. The how to guide is supposed to be very effective. I was going to spray the metal pipe black as well for even more stealth.

The only aftermarket one I have found is:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/SILICON-INTAKE-PIPE...=item255a132f3d

When I ask him whether it will bolt up to the std airbox he keeps saying "yes it should", which is not the sort of rock solid answer I am after.

The guys on here keep saying to get someone to make a custom one up.

a few of those things dont fit at all (especially r34) so just be wary. The factory one is fine with a insert.

a few of those things dont fit at all (especially r34) so just be wary. The factory one is fine with a insert.

I have a silicone intake like this. Not the same one. It fits with the standard airbox (sorta). It moves the position of the airbox over a bit so my airbox is only held in by 3 bolts. So yeh, it works fine but just not 100% perfect fitment wise.

the metal piece you insert (the mod that's been referenced) is not really visible at all. Do that, it will look more stock than the silicone and cheaper.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...2A#entry3594870

Similar power to you and with good/new 225 tyres holds traction pretty well. I have noticed now that the grip isn't quite as good (tyres are now about 10k kms old, 12 mths old). Will spin up the top of first and in 2nd if road isn't flat. With fresh tyres it would hold. Be careful with the power. I have stock suspension and brakes.

Edited by benl1981
Picked up my car from Unigroup engineering today

Results are as follows

GCG r33 gtst housing high flow pumped out 254.7kw at the wheels but detuned to 243.8 due to intake pipe gettin vacummed sucked.

Specs are as follows

Greddy profec 2 boost controler

Bosch 040 intank fuel pump

Standard air box with filter

R33 gtst GCG high flow turbo

3inch dump pipe and exhaust in stainless with a xforce twin tip muffler for the sleeper look

Just jap return flow front mount intercooler painted matt black

Nismo 555 cc injectors

Z32 air flow meter

Power fc

NGK coppers .8 gap

Standard coils

The 185.5kw was made on stock turbo, SMIC, standard airflow meter, standard air box and 3 inch exhaust, at 12psi

Hello,could i ask how much your tune cost,i need one myself,you can pm if you like. Genelle. :cheers:

$750 standard unigroup price

These guys go the extra mile before they tune your car.

They bench flow injectors to determine flow rates and spray patterns.

They smoke test your motor to determine whether there are leaks in the piping system

yavuz has a degree in mechanical engineering and he has specialised his work to car tuning which makes him a pro at what he does. Over 15years experience in car tunning, he started on carbies. He is a power fc freak as well.

good service and very informative, worth paying the extra to know he has put the time into refining your machine. remember , tunning brings the whole package together, can make or break your motor. When he tells you he has tuned your car to be driven hard, you know it will last the distance.

Good luck

I have also been on the search for an intake pipe to connect from the airbox to the standard turbo compressor inlet. The how to guide is supposed to be very effective. I was going to spray the metal pipe black as well for even more stealth.

I say screw the silicone intake pipes that are out there. I thought I'd get one so that I didn't ever face the issue of having the standard rubber one suck closed. I was a bit disappointed with the fit. I tried trimming stuff as best as I could but it just didn't sit right. Since I'd trimmed it I couldn't really send it back. I also wondered whether the standard rubber one was actually a stiffer construction, it just didn't impress me (can't remember the brand so some might be better). Some silicone ones I've seen have a metal spring/reinforcement on the outside but this pipe doesn't see positive boost pressure so I'm not sure that would even do anything. The rubber one has all of the extra external reinforcement to brace it all. I just threw the silicone one out after seeing the metal pipe mod. A local exhaust shop was really good and I got a piece of 3" stainless for free. A knife, couple of hose clamps and some tools to cut/ tidy up the pipe was all that was needed. To keep it looking more stealth make sure the hose clamp screws/ bolts are underneath. Put the 2 ribbed rubber section you cut out over the pipe and match up the cuts so the only difference is the two stainless bans of the clamps showing. This is a great mod as you won't suck the metal closed and it's cheap to boot.

Edited by Fry_33

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