Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all

just a quick question, can a r32 gtr factory rear diff be reshimed to be tightened up abit? Like the r200s in gtst's and 13's and so on?

The gtr diff is mechanical and the gtst and silivas are clutch diff.

Will it still work the same??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320456-can-you-shim-a-factory-gtr-diff/
Share on other sites

not only can you do the mechanical centres...they come up much better than the lsd centres.

i run a shimmed factory diff in my race car

I vcan't think of any reason to buy a mechanical 2 way centre for a gtr...what they have does the job perfectly. 1 or 1.5 way centres are better of course but that is a different discussion

How did you shim your diff Duncan, because they are not a a LSD type, can they still be done like this? http://datnet.org/Technical-f35/Tech-Artic...scous-t530.html useing the same shims? or do i need to buy Plates and diffrent type of shims for a diffrent spot?

thanks all

sorry mate....anything with little gears that go round and round I give to someone to fix. So diffs are out of my abilities as are gearboxes and xfer cases.

this is what i did:

1. remove diff and take to diff shop

2. tell them "This diff is not tight enough, I want this to clunk when it goes around corners"

3. come back 2 days later and give them $400

4. put it back in car and love it.

so no idea of the exact shims, number, type or thickness. but the guys certainly knew what I was talking about and delivered exactly what I wanted.

Anyone ekes no if it's the same as the link above??

Like I said above... Swap the other two friction plates around. Won't cost you a cent (other than some more diff oil).

Nathan from O2 Autosports (on this forum as DRIFTER) as done exactly that on the GTR diff in his R32 drift car, and (with only that change) the diff is now tight enough to suit his drifting.

sounds so simple lol everything ive done so far on my gtr has been a pain nothing simple. haha

So theres 6 friction plates in a gtr diff, but only 4 are used, therfore the other 2 are in new condition? is that why it tightens it up?

just wanner get abit of info on how he did it, before i go pulling the diff out.

I have used a Nismo shim kit (part no. 3843s-rs521) which is the tighter of the two in an R33 GTR dif in and R33 GTST and it is an awesome upgrade.

Before the shim kit it would spin the inner wheel when doing motorkanas and deca days, it would be very unpredictable and would lock and unlock mid corner.

With the diff shimmed up it is great on the street and the track. You can roll around a corner with it unlocked, so no clunking or skipping a wheel and as soon as you toch the go pedal it locks up nice and tight.

I have done 4 or 5 motorkana days after i did the diff and i have never had a problem with it unlocking.

The kit is fairly easy to install ( i did it myself) and comes with jap instruction which i got translated as there is a few measurement need to work out the correct amount of shims needed ( i have 1 spare one left over).

PS i tried turning the orginal nissan friction plates around before i put the diff into the car and this was still no good.

Cheers NutR33

  • 2 months later...

just bringing this thread back to life, diffs geting really bad now. so gunna get it rebuilt. i wanner use the Nismo kit... wheres the best place to get em??? and has anyone got the part Number for the tightest one they make?? i want it tight haha

Hey dean get a diff shop to sort it out, it's not as easy as just throwing in a nismo or any other kit - there will be existing wear to take into account as well. the nismo kit is nothing special just some particular thickness clutch discs

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey everyone, I recently bought myself a 2001 Nissan Stegea M35, and I've had a few issues that I had to fix, my car would start intermittently and I had a bad rocker cover leak, after a couple days of looking I finally found a part number that interchanges with the OEM starter as the OEM starters at $1300 and I can't afford that, this starter was only $270 and I replaced the start and still had the same issues, I posted a video asking for help online and it went very well, some guy said it was probably a bad ignition switch so I took my dash apart and turns out my ignition switch was half screwed in and was loose, once it was tightened it fired right up, I found a local place called "Boost factory" and they sold me a part of OEM Nissan rocker covers, they were $600 which was a shocker but I couldn't find them anywhere else, so I installed them and fixed my oil leak as the old rocker cover was cracked and warped, I now need to replace my boost air inlet hoses as they have some cracks.
    • I am being real ocd and do not want to make amy mistakes so appreciate all help provided. I am overly cautious so asking for opinion even if i know the answer   few questions,   1.re tensioner, should spring be greased lightly?    2.tensioner has two washers , one pressure washer and other has recessed/ seat. I am going to put the recessed one facing tensioner where edges are cut out and pressure washer on top   3. my car has custom triger kit sold few years ago by guy who initially built the engine. I moved the crank gear and it moved in and out easy, only way to remove belt is to slide the crankshaft gear forward which I did. I have seen these being very tough to move , anything to do with my woodruff key?   it has a crank sensor shown in purple which I assume reads from the 12 teeth position mounted to the crankcase gear   4. timing belt doesn’t have arrow stating front or back just a arrow which I think is direction of rotation . Do you agree?   5.i figured out why my crankcase cover was worn as there was no washer installed over the crankcase cover before the harmonic balancer was put in place. It is missing, anyone knows the part number? It looks like this https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-crankshaft-timing-gear-rear-plate-washer-nissan-s13-ca18-a31-r32-rb20-r33-r34-c33-c34-c35-rb25?currency=USD   https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4535.382Zy2 https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4537.382dSz https://tinypic.host/image/IMG-4534.382q4U  
    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
×
×
  • Create New...