Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

what's a valet boot locking switch?

weird thing my 32 does is the climate control screen comes on and off randomly (mostly off now)...

valet boot locking switch is on the inside of the boot lock, when its on you cant pop the boot from the cabin. but with that your spose to have seperate keys for the boot and ignition but mine are the same so whats the point there? :)

also, my screen goes loco sometimes too.. instead of going off, every LCD part goes ON, sometimes only parts go on. It's a loose connection in there but I managed to score another climate control box for 5$ :)

Shaun

  • Replies 121
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

1. Every time I switch the ignition off the engine keeps on running for anywhere between 30sec & 2minutes. "After a few months of driving took it for a service & they fixed it...(nice guys didn't even charge me) they said it was something called a turbo timer & just ripped it out :)

2. Occassionally after a few drinks, I use to jump into the car & notice the dash & steering wheel are gone & moved over to the (as we know it) passenger side. I now realised that I was in the 56 thunderbird left hand drive :)

3. Dunno bout you guys, but does your fuel cap swap sides. Sometimes I go to fill up & could have sworn black & blue the cap was on my drivers side :confused:

I believe the headunit turning off during gear changes is probably a ground issue (as said).

On my car there is a ground wire connected to a bolt at the top of the gearbox near the shifter. If this has at some stage wrapped around the gearstick underneath the gear-boot it may cause problems if that ground was used for something.

Let me see what the weird thing about my car.

My driver's side electric window switch is really sensitive. One small touch and it will wine down, even going over bumpy road sometime.

My climate control off button is jammed for some reason and now I can't switch off my climate control.

And now my antenna is stuff too. It will go up but wouldn't retract automatically, have to get out and shove it back down.

i have a funny button in my ash tray and when i push it, the car goes much faster :)

but the weird thing with my car, is the dimmer switch for the dash, that was put in for compliance is in the most stupid position its so easy to bump...

well my car doesnt have that problem, in fact, it doesnt have a dimmer switch at all lol

:)

My climate control makes a knocking sound when i turn the car on does about 8 or so times also does it when the aircon changes fan speed.

My seat belt makes a clicking noise which I also now can rarely hear after exhuast install. :bonk:

Yeah I noticed when I pulled the climate controll out in my 34 that when I put it back and switch the car on for the first time after that it makes a horrible knocking too. I think it's some type of system reset thing, maybe a system check. I'm an electronic engineer and it puzzeled me :wassup:

hmm where to start!!!

I get a click click noise when i start moving, the same noise but much worse at high rpm/high boost, sounds like a driveline noise.

where do i start with wiring! theres heaps of it! sunroof closes to about 3" opening then you have to take your hand off and press switch again.

aircon doesn't work cos some gimp took it out!

main concern is my battery can go flat very quickly, its only a piss weak lil thing, but like when i was installing a cd player and testing stuff out it went flat.

i left it for 2 weeks and it wouldn't start, charged it started it, moved it around. i stuck my head in and could tell just by looking that it was flat (fuel guage not reading, interior light not on) my skyline has sat there since july and i start that every so often and she first first time

Has two annoying things as well.

One is a stupid noise it makes under no or low engine load ever since I had the E boost fitted. (really annoys the wife)

Listen to it here

http://www.cwp.id.au/skylinenoise.mpg (1.47mb)

The other tink is it seems to loose power for a sec at around 5000rpm when the boost is on or over about .7 bar (I suspect that this wont be an issue when the new computer is fitted)

how did u get compliance widout dimmer switch...
Probably the same way mine did... I have searched all over and I would bet my leftie that my car hasn't got one fitted.

The only wierd thing about my 'line is that it makes most falcodore drivers think that they are Peter Brock or Dick Johnson.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...