Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I want to get into some sort of motorsport, but like most people my age I don't have a lot of money to play around with. I have read the looking to get into motorsport thread and tried to search for more information but I still have a few questions if anyone can answer. From what I've read Motorkhana and Superkhana are the cheapest forms of racing, and Superkhana probably interests me most. I'm just curious about what type of licence I would need (if any), if the car I drive needs to meet any requirements to enter, and how much approximately I would be spending each year to participate regularly (10+ times a year). Any info people can provide would be brilliant.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320666-cheap-motorsport-questions/
Share on other sites

What you need its different for every club/venue/organizers.

As for cheap; Track day x 1 = $200ish entry+ fuel $???+ service $???+the car if you bin it

I service my car after every track day, so, it costs me around $350 for a day-(entry/fuel/oils/fluids) + maybe retune, brake pads, new discs or anything else that goes bang.

I got some Dunlop semi-slicks which cost around $500 a tyre, they have had 2 track days on them and have maybe another 4 or 5 left (maybe).

The minister of war and finance has said I am not allowed to spend more than $5,000 per annum which means I can only really afford to track my car 6 times a year.

You can do it cheaper so don't let me put you off, its the most fun you can have with your clothes on, this is just me saying to work out a budget before hand.

Before entering a superkhana or motorkhana you need to have a cams license LS2 which is $100 a year. To get the cams license you need to be a member of a cams affiliated club. I join the mini car club of wa for $30 per year.

A superkhana round will cost you $60 + fuel.

A motorkhana round will cost you $40 + fuel.

For a motorkhana there is no need for a helmet. Superkhana you need a helmet, long pants and long sleeves.

Take into consideration tyre wear which depends on your driving style.

Thanks for the info guys. I read the motorsport post and it was really helpful. Still wanting some more info on the kinds of $$ people spend on budget racing. I'm trying to work out how much it will cost and do a budget to see how much I can afford to do. So the best thing I could do is to join a local club and get into it that way?

Join the WASCC and do some tuning days in your Streetcar to get an Idea of what you want. If you are interested in real racing I can help you with info on

www.iprawa.com we run limited modification cars and you can get into it relatively for motorsport if you don't expect to win races.

Edited by N I B

Sorry but there is no cheap motorsport

Drifting is comparatively cheap compared to track racing etc.

People whnige about tyre costs and things, but when your using $100-200 tyres compared to what your paying for some decent track racing tyres it works out a bit cheaper.

lol... i use $400 worth of tyres in a practice session at drift and i wouldn't class myself as being a top driver...

If you go to every practice that is 12x$400 = $4800 not inc the tyres you would use in a comp

compare to something like no-limits events which you could run a set of normally road tyres for a complete year or a set of semi for the complete year.

drifting is far from cheap lol...

The improved production series looks good fun, but maybe a bit serious for what I'm looking at. I have never done any motorsport before, so I am looking at Superkhana's and Motorkana's to learn car control and 'how to drive' in a cheap low speed environment. Anymore information anyone could provide would be awesome. Thanks to all for their responses so far. Keep it coming!

Look into doing some track days/super sprints, ensure you prep your car (enough oils and fluids) and just take it as easy, feel comfortable with it and don't push too hard, go in the newb group and have ball.

Its easy as and awesome fun.

The improved production series looks good fun, but maybe a bit serious for what I'm looking at. I have never done any motorsport before, so I am looking at Superkhana's and Motorkana's to learn car control and 'how to drive' in a cheap low speed environment. Anymore information anyone could provide would be awesome. Thanks to all for their responses so far. Keep it coming!

One of the SAUWA Driver Training events is to be held in June, and it's about to go public, so keep your eye on the Events section. We have instructors who will teach you car control is a safe environment, and its cheap :P

Buy a race ready 600cc motorbike with a trailer for well under 10k :down: Or get a go kart, both of these would be cheaper than a car. It doest have to be a boring car ;)

Edited by phenline

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's excellent but I'm still breaking it in so I'm not 100% sure where it'll end up. I would say it's about 15% heavier than stock and the smoothness of the slip zone is quite progressive but you need to be a little patient compared to stock or it'll bite hard and stall. Stock I got away with absolutely horrid clutch control. Like I said before I couldn't even tell where the clutch would grab when it was stock so releasing way too quickly without enough revs it would just slip and the revs would drop lower than ideal but that would be the end of it. Currently there's a bit of a nasty clutch judder if I don't apply enough revs + find the exact wrong point of the slip point in the clutch pedal but it feels like it's slowly resolving as I drive it more. I would not recommend the competition clutch unless you really need the extra clamp force. I think this clutch combined with the Nismo operating cylinder is going to be exactly what I want. Enough bite that you need to remember the release point to avoid stalling or rough shifts, but progressive enough that it's not hard to drive by any means and not heavy at all. I tried a "super single" clutch on my friend's 997.2 Turbo 6MT and that was absolutely horrid. It runs an electrohydraulic power steering pump for the clutch power boost so there's zero feedback in the clutch pedal and there was a horrific clutch shudder well after break-in due to the lack of marcel springs or hub springs in the friction disk. It felt like the slip zone was the thickness of a single toe twitch as well so it was almost impossible to avoid stalling it unless you gave it a ton of revs and just dumped the clutch instead of trying to be smooth with it. I was terrified of pulling out in front of traffic. I have also tried some kind of "super single" on an EK9 and that makes this twin plate Coppermix look like a stock clutch. Releasing the clutch pedal even slightly too quickly feels like you're getting rear-ended. The pedal is extremely heavy as well and there's no vacuum assist like the GTR.
    • Yeah, well I was probably way underguessing the $300 figure anyway. Just multiplied a "normal" by 4 for the purposes of pointing out it's not cheap, particularly if it has to be repeated.
    • We have an alignment shop out here that does what you're talking about but he wants like 800 AUD a pop. DIY is "cheaper" but once you start accounting for the value of your time I'm not sure it's worth it.
    • The main catch phrase for any car is "the eye of the beholder", and "personal tastes and preferences" And as for the plastic "flares", I honestly think they look cheap and tacky, and I cannot see them aging well, maybe if they were body colour they might look better to my eyes, but, I would still prefer it the were more like the older WRX STI models that had the wider body metal panels In saying all this 5hit, I wouldn't buy a new WRX again, even if it had the wide body metal panels    
×
×
  • Create New...