Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I want to get into some sort of motorsport, but like most people my age I don't have a lot of money to play around with. I have read the looking to get into motorsport thread and tried to search for more information but I still have a few questions if anyone can answer. From what I've read Motorkhana and Superkhana are the cheapest forms of racing, and Superkhana probably interests me most. I'm just curious about what type of licence I would need (if any), if the car I drive needs to meet any requirements to enter, and how much approximately I would be spending each year to participate regularly (10+ times a year). Any info people can provide would be brilliant.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320666-cheap-motorsport-questions/
Share on other sites

What you need its different for every club/venue/organizers.

As for cheap; Track day x 1 = $200ish entry+ fuel $???+ service $???+the car if you bin it

I service my car after every track day, so, it costs me around $350 for a day-(entry/fuel/oils/fluids) + maybe retune, brake pads, new discs or anything else that goes bang.

I got some Dunlop semi-slicks which cost around $500 a tyre, they have had 2 track days on them and have maybe another 4 or 5 left (maybe).

The minister of war and finance has said I am not allowed to spend more than $5,000 per annum which means I can only really afford to track my car 6 times a year.

You can do it cheaper so don't let me put you off, its the most fun you can have with your clothes on, this is just me saying to work out a budget before hand.

Before entering a superkhana or motorkhana you need to have a cams license LS2 which is $100 a year. To get the cams license you need to be a member of a cams affiliated club. I join the mini car club of wa for $30 per year.

A superkhana round will cost you $60 + fuel.

A motorkhana round will cost you $40 + fuel.

For a motorkhana there is no need for a helmet. Superkhana you need a helmet, long pants and long sleeves.

Take into consideration tyre wear which depends on your driving style.

Thanks for the info guys. I read the motorsport post and it was really helpful. Still wanting some more info on the kinds of $$ people spend on budget racing. I'm trying to work out how much it will cost and do a budget to see how much I can afford to do. So the best thing I could do is to join a local club and get into it that way?

Join the WASCC and do some tuning days in your Streetcar to get an Idea of what you want. If you are interested in real racing I can help you with info on

www.iprawa.com we run limited modification cars and you can get into it relatively for motorsport if you don't expect to win races.

Edited by N I B

Sorry but there is no cheap motorsport

Drifting is comparatively cheap compared to track racing etc.

People whnige about tyre costs and things, but when your using $100-200 tyres compared to what your paying for some decent track racing tyres it works out a bit cheaper.

lol... i use $400 worth of tyres in a practice session at drift and i wouldn't class myself as being a top driver...

If you go to every practice that is 12x$400 = $4800 not inc the tyres you would use in a comp

compare to something like no-limits events which you could run a set of normally road tyres for a complete year or a set of semi for the complete year.

drifting is far from cheap lol...

The improved production series looks good fun, but maybe a bit serious for what I'm looking at. I have never done any motorsport before, so I am looking at Superkhana's and Motorkana's to learn car control and 'how to drive' in a cheap low speed environment. Anymore information anyone could provide would be awesome. Thanks to all for their responses so far. Keep it coming!

Look into doing some track days/super sprints, ensure you prep your car (enough oils and fluids) and just take it as easy, feel comfortable with it and don't push too hard, go in the newb group and have ball.

Its easy as and awesome fun.

The improved production series looks good fun, but maybe a bit serious for what I'm looking at. I have never done any motorsport before, so I am looking at Superkhana's and Motorkana's to learn car control and 'how to drive' in a cheap low speed environment. Anymore information anyone could provide would be awesome. Thanks to all for their responses so far. Keep it coming!

One of the SAUWA Driver Training events is to be held in June, and it's about to go public, so keep your eye on the Events section. We have instructors who will teach you car control is a safe environment, and its cheap :P

Buy a race ready 600cc motorbike with a trailer for well under 10k :down: Or get a go kart, both of these would be cheaper than a car. It doest have to be a boring car ;)

Edited by phenline

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jap premium will be 100 RON. You should use 98.
    • The exhaust gases are at their highest temperature as they leave the exhaust port and enter the manifold. They cool as they flow through the manifold because they transfer heat to the manifold and the manifold loses heat to the surrounding environment. Thus, inevitably, the exhaust gases are cooler as they enter the turbo compared to when they entered the exhaust manifold. So, yes, the exhaust manifold can easily get as hot as the turbine housing. Having said that, you will generally see the highest temperatures where the exhaust gases have to slow down or they are concentrated into one area - which is usually the collector on the manifold and in the turbine housing, because the gases slam into the metal at those places, increasing the convective heat transfer coefficient and transferring even more heat to the metal than they might just flowing past elsewhere. Exhaust manifold heat shields are a good idea - certainly for the stock manifold they are there from the factory. People seldom have anything like that on a tubular manifold because they are hard to achieve. Some might wrap a tube manifold with fibreglass tape - but this has a reputation of leading to cracked welds. The best case is generally to put ceramic coating onto the manifold to prevent it getting as hot (internal coating) and radiating/convecting heat into the bay (external coating). All the real heat from a turbo comes from the exhaust side. The gases entering are at ~800-900°C and the steel/iron gets nearly that hot. The compressor side is only going to heat the charge air up to <<200°C (typically not much more than 100°C). So that's nothing, by comparison. The compressor is not a significant source of engine bay heat.
    • Late to the party, specifically joined this forum as I just bought one of these and this thread has been a gold mine of info. If the OP is still around, mind if I ask what gas you been putting in yours? Mine has a Japanese sticker in the cap saying premium but it seems to get way worse mileage on premium (95) than 91. I always thought it was meant to be the other way round🤷 I do think Nissans claimed "6l/100km" is a bit fantastical 😂
    • Does exhaust manifold get hot as turno exhuast side? I have a turbo cover to managr heat in the engine bay but  nothing is covering the exhaust manifold before turbo   i know as turbo does compress air, the temp does go up however does that mean exhaust manifold would be as hot?
    • It's excellent but I'm still breaking it in so I'm not 100% sure where it'll end up. I would say it's about 15% heavier than stock and the smoothness of the slip zone is quite progressive but you need to be a little patient compared to stock or it'll bite hard and stall. Stock I got away with absolutely horrid clutch control. Like I said before I couldn't even tell where the clutch would grab when it was stock so releasing way too quickly without enough revs it would just slip and the revs would drop lower than ideal but that would be the end of it. Currently there's a bit of a nasty clutch judder if I don't apply enough revs + find the exact wrong point of the slip point in the clutch pedal but it feels like it's slowly resolving as I drive it more. I would not recommend the competition clutch unless you really need the extra clamp force. I think this clutch combined with the Nismo operating cylinder is going to be exactly what I want. Enough bite that you need to remember the release point to avoid stalling or rough shifts, but progressive enough that it's not hard to drive by any means and not heavy at all. I tried a "super single" clutch on my friend's 997.2 Turbo 6MT and that was absolutely horrid. It runs an electrohydraulic power steering pump for the clutch power boost so there's zero feedback in the clutch pedal and there was a horrific clutch shudder well after break-in due to the lack of marcel springs or hub springs in the friction disk. It felt like the slip zone was the thickness of a single toe twitch as well so it was almost impossible to avoid stalling it unless you gave it a ton of revs and just dumped the clutch instead of trying to be smooth with it. I was terrified of pulling out in front of traffic. I have also tried some kind of "super single" on an EK9 and that makes this twin plate Coppermix look like a stock clutch. Releasing the clutch pedal even slightly too quickly feels like you're getting rear-ended. The pedal is extremely heavy as well and there's no vacuum assist like the GTR.
×
×
  • Create New...