1983 R30 5 Door Hatch

[RiCkY TuTtY]

hey guys as above i have a 1983 R30 5 door Hatchback with L24e EFI

wat im asking for is info on the motor, gearbox and diff in detail if possible

i have the basic outline of the suspension so thats not a worry, just the drivechain sides

Thankyou in advance

[RiCkY TuTtY]

i also have the exact problem with this fella also which didnt ever come up with a fix also - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/L2...ta-t101555.html

[jrh001]

Hi,

Check for air leaks; perished or split rubber hoses and loose clamps.

For detail on engine, gearbox and diff you'd need a service manual. There's one on eBay, http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ORIGINAL-NISSAN-SKY...52?cmd=ViewItem

JH

[RiCkY TuTtY]

Hi,

Check for air leaks; perished or split rubber hoses and loose clamps.

For detail on engine, gearbox and diff you'd need a service manual. There's one on eBay, http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ORIGINAL-NISSAN-SKY...52?cmd=ViewItem

JH

g'day JH cheers for the reply, have inspected rubbers of all sorts and electrics but can only come to the cold start mechanism as it doesnt like idle wen cold start (idles irratically) and there seems to be an issue with the TPS as connecting/disconnecting and adjusting made no difference....

hahaha nice find on the manual i already was watching it but thankyou for taking the time to find it!

[RiCkY TuTtY]

but i also have the problem of the r30 being sluggish during idle to around 3500rpm then picks up, aswell as between idle and 3500 it seems to have a slight miss too... if that helps

the only thing that isnt original is that i had installed VL RB30 Injectors due to originals #1 and 2 leaking real bad

[jrh001]

....as it doesnt like idle wen cold start (idles irratically)...

Hi,

Check the air regulator (see blue circle in the pic). The regulator opens when the engine is cold and then closes when the engine has warmed up. Make sure the air hoses are clamped up tight and the connector is OK. You might have to remove the hoses and check that the shutter inside rotates.

Don't know about the injectors, someone else will know.

JH

[RiCkY TuTtY]

Hi,

Check the air regulator (see blue circle in the pic). The regulator opens when the engine is cold and then closes when the engine has warmed up. Make sure the air hoses are clamped up tight and the connector is OK. You might have to remove the hoses and check that the shutter inside rotates.

Don't know about the injectors, someone else will know.

JH

when u say check the rotation of the regulator which hose should i pull off whilst the cars running i assume? i have pictures as follows

[jrh001]

Hi,

In your pics, you should be able to poke a flat bladed screwdriver into the hole, find the edge of the shutter and gently lever it open. It should open and close smoothly. Also, you can check the resistance across the two electrical connectors (should be about 70 ohms).

If it's still on the car and all connected... with the engine running, squash the rubber hose between the front of the regulator and the throttle body. If the engine is cold, squashing the hose should decrease the idle. If the engine is warmed up, squashing the hose should have no effect.

JH

[RiCkY TuTtY]

Hi,

In your pics, you should be able to poke a flat bladed screwdriver into the hole, find the edge of the shutter and gently lever it open. It should open and close smoothly. Also, you can check the resistance across the two electrical connectors (should be about 70 ohms).

If it's still on the car and all connected... with the engine running, squash the rubber hose between the front of the regulator and the throttle body. If the engine is cold, squashing the hose should decrease the idle. If the engine is warmed up, squashing the hose should have no effect.

JH

that checked out all OK as soon as the hose squashed on cold it stalled, also it just seems to go thru fuel like no 2mora

[jrh001]

that checked out all OK as soon as the hose squashed on cold it stalled...

And what happens when the engine is warmed up and you squash the hose?

[RiCkY TuTtY]

And what happens when the engine is warmed up and you squash the hose?

i will go find that out now for you give me 5

[RiCkY TuTtY]

by squashing the hose either side it was only to lower the revvs some wat by only 100-200rpms?

after it warmed up it didnt make a difference via squashing hoses

[jrh001]

after it warmed up it didnt make a difference via squashing hoses

Oh well, there goes that theory. Air regulator seems OK.

So the engine: won't idle properly when cold, is sluggish to 3500rpm, has a 'slight miss', consumes lots of fuel.

And you've checked: No obvious intake air leaks, air regulator OK, electricals OK.

Suspects: TPS (I think it's only an on/off switch with no adjustment). Two injectors replaced recently. 

See if anyone else can help diagnose the problem. BTW how old is this engine?

cheers,

JH

[RiCkY TuTtY]

Oh well, there goes that theory. Air regulator seems OK.

So the engine: won't idle properly when cold, is sluggish to 3500rpm, has a 'slight miss', consumes lots of fuel.

correct

And you've checked: No obvious intake air leaks, air regulator OK, electricals OK.

correct

Suspects: TPS (I think it's only an on/off switch with no adjustment).

im having the same thought too as i had no response when connecting/disconnecting/adjusting etc

Two injectors replaced recently.

sorry i should have been more specific - ALL injectors where replaced with RB30

See if anyone else can help diagnose the problem. BTW how old is this engine?

203,000km's

cheers,

JH

Edited May 16, 2010 by RiCkY TuTtY

[N2K10]

correct

correct

im having the same thought too as i had no response when connecting/disconnecting/adjusting etc

sorry i should have been more specific - ALL injectors where replaced with RB30

203,000km's

I got a few of those, dont want them. $50 an ok price?

[N2K10]

hey guys as above i have a 1983 R30 5 door Hatchback with L24e EFI

wat im asking for is info on the motor, gearbox and diff in detail if possible

i have the basic outline of the suspension so thats not a worry, just the drivechain sides

Thankyou in advance

Swap you a mars bar for it

[RiCkY TuTtY]

Swap you a mars bar for it

HAHAHAHA u crack me up everytime u do that

[N2K10]

HAHAHAHA u crack me up everytime u do that

I can't help myself

[Factory 5]

I reckon if the TPS is buggered it will make the car only rev to 1500 to 2000 rpm.

another thing worth looking at is the water temperature sensor, that actually goes to the ECU. if it is buggered, or the wiring is corroded it will not read the engines warm temps, thus thinking its 'cold' and dumping fuel in.

And another culprit is the cold start injector. is a separate injector that operates on startup only, if its stuck open it will be dumping HEAPS of fuel down. that nasty thing can really cause problems....

[RiCkY TuTtY]

I reckon if the TPS is buggered it will make the car only rev to 1500 to 2000 rpm.

it could be just me then with the TPS just because it did nothing to watever i did with it

another thing worth looking at is the water temperature sensor, that actually goes to the ECU. if it is buggered, or the wiring is corroded it will not read the engines warm temps, thus thinking its 'cold' and dumping fuel in.

there is a set of wires that run to the dizzy/temp sensors but there is one single plug (flat-single) that when i connect it the actual temp gauge goes thru the roof! but as soon as i disconnect it, the temp reading goes back too normal? - I will post piccies soon

And another culprit is the cold start injector. is a separate injector that operates on startup only, if its stuck open it will be dumping HEAPS of fuel down. that nasty thing can really cause problems....

where abouts would this cold start injector be if i may ask?

Edited May 16, 2010 by RiCkY TuTtY