1983 R30 5 Door Hatch

[jrh001]

...where abouts would this cold start injector be if i may ask?  

See pic, blue circle

JH

[blind_elk]

sorry i should have been more specific - ALL injectors where replaced with RB30

This won't help. The injectors are designed to run a 3litre engine, not a 2.4 litre engine. They will probably be overfuelling the engine to buggery - no wonder it drinks petrol.

[RiCkY TuTtY]

This won't help. The injectors are designed to run a 3litre engine, not a 2.4 litre engine. They will probably be overfuelling the engine to buggery - no wonder it drinks petrol.

280ZX - 180cc

L20et - 188cc

RB30 - 200cc

RB30ET- 250cc

L28ET - 265cc Low Impedance

RB20DET - 270cc

RB25DE - 270cc

VG30et - 270-280cc (turbo ones)

280ZX Turbo - 280cc (turbo ones) ??? not sure about this one.

7MGE Toyota - 295cc

FJ20ET - 360-370cc

RB25DET - 370cc (sidefeed) No good

RB26DETT - 440cc Low Impedance

it does say here (from another topic) that rb30 injectors are 200CC but i have seen other ppl state them being 188CC.... THEN i see ppl saying l24e injectors are 188CC aswell so even if this is the case.... its not THAT much of a difference but feel free to correct me if im wrong as i am only going off wat other ppl have said around here on SAU?

im pretty sure the RB30 injectors are not that different to L24's?

Edited May 16, 2010 by RiCkY TuTtY

[Factory 5]

I sold my last supply of L24e inject's for $20 each, sold 8 in one hit...

I will have 4 spare pretty soon (within the next 2 months), as Im upgrading to turbo spec ones.

[RiCkY TuTtY]

I sold my last supply of L24e inject's for $20 each, sold 8 in one hit...

I will have 4 spare pretty soon (within the next 2 months), as Im upgrading to turbo spec ones.

cheers for that bud appreciated

however i did notice a difference when i had unplugged the Cold Start Injecter tho.... may have sourced problem but will prove over next few days...

one other thing that is a must is replace the ignition leads... there 1982 Yakuza's imprinted

[RiCkY TuTtY]

im assuming aswell that R30's dont have any sort of diagnostic system do they? i inspected the ECU but to no luck finding any LED's like RB30's ECU's do, and i would guess that there not setup like RB20's with a seperate plug to force Diagnostic Mode?

[RiCkY TuTtY]

bought $18.18 worth of V-Power at $1.44 witch gave me 12.62L and that gave me 100km......

12.62L/100km little bit steep for only a 2.4L?

bought $20 of normal unleaded at $1.30 which gave me 15.4L going to see how far that travels...

Edited May 19, 2010 by RiCkY TuTtY

[Silent Shadow]

My carby L24 gives around about that sort of millage.

[Factory 5]

that mileage is the average (last 3 Ive had did that)

premium is better, i get 80km a tank extra

the Bosch ECU realy realy SUCKS BALLS. its a BASIC clock circuit that opens and shuts injectors in a certain timing. fully SHIT. but reliable. doesnt take big mods without tinkering.

[RiCkY TuTtY]

ok so some bad news... i tried following this topic - http://www.zdriver.com/forums/showthread.php?p=274780 where u re-locate the cam gear for a stretched timing chain but have now lost tension and is unable to slip back-on even with pressure to pull upwards....

anyone keen to help out?

Edited May 23, 2010 by RiCkY TuTtY

[Daewoo]

ok so some bad news... i tried following this topic - http://www.zdriver.com/forums/showthread.php?p=274780 where u re-locate the cam gear for a stretched timing chain but have now lost tension and is unable to slip back-on even with pressure to pull upwards....

anyone keen to help out?

Couple of things can cause this... How much is it missing by??? Did you jam a spark plug socket or block of wood down the timing case before you removed the chain from the camshaft???

If it is only missing by a couple of mm, it will most likely be the sprocket and camshaft are a little out of alignment, and you need to leaver it on as best you can, and then turn the camshaft a little each way until it pops on...

If it is more than a few mm, it is probably because the tensioner has poped out (because you didn't jam it up with a spark plug socket or piece of wood)... look down the timing case on the left side of the motor as you are facing it... there is a little piston that pushes against the chain guide to keep pressure on the chain and stop it flopping about... it can only slide out, and not in by itself, it has a little flap that locks it out... you push on the back of the flap to lift it up and let the piston slide back inwards... If it is still horizontal, you can fix it without too much problem... slide something down to put a pressure on the tensioner so it can't pop out any further, and then undo the bolts on the outside, left hand side, of the timing case that hold the tensioner spring in... don't let the spring shoot out or it is hard to find... then use a long screw driver to lift the flap that lets the tensioner move outwards but not inwards... that will let the tensioner slide all the way back in again... Say a quiet prayer if you got out of it that easily...

unfortunately, if it has completely poped out, you are in a world of pain... you can try and get it to line up again, remove the spring as above, use wire to tie the chain up and keep tension on the timing chain (to stop if falling off the bottom sprocket) while holding it against the right side of the timing case to give you room to work.... then get a hook of coathanger under the tensioner, and try and lift it up and get it started in the hole... then use a long screwdriver to keep pressure on it while you use another screwdriver to lift the tab and let is slide all the way back in...

Make sure no little kids are around to hear your swearing, 'cause this a very frustrating job, and very difficult... if the tenioner pops out and falls into the sump, you are screwed, and you need to remove the timing case, which also means removing the harmonic balancer and the sump... almost impossible with the engine in the car...

I tried to find a good photo so I could draw onto it the bits I am talking about, but alas, can't find anything...

Best of Luck,

Cheers,

Daewoo

[coupe72001]

By the sounds of it the timing chain tensioner popped out. I've made this error a lot - and am expert for swearing for a while and then just dealing with it - with the engine still in the car.

Disconnect battery and remove spark plug number one. Remove your grill and radiator. Pull everything off the front of the engine (fan etc) bar the water pump. Don't remopver the head, just the rocker cover. The harmonic balancer (or crank pulley if your prefer) can be loosened by chocking the cam with an adjustable wrench - it has lugs in the centre of the cam for this purpose. If you don't chock the cam the engine will turn over without the bolt loosening. Loosen your sump a little. Remove the 2 little number 10 bolts from head to timing cover. Remove timing cover. Pop your tensioner back in its home (having fished it out of the sump with a magnet). reassemble with new (timing cover etc) gaskets as necessary. Make a real effort not to damage head/sump gasket as replacing them sucks. At least setting up the timing chain/cam position is really easy with timing cover off. Be sure that number 1 piston is at TDC exactly when you position your cam sprocket.

For future reference I enjoy shoving a broom all the way down the timing cover to prevent the tensioner popping out.

Best of luck.

[Daewoo]

By the sounds of it the timing chain tensioner popped out. I've made this error a lot - and am expert for swearing for a while and then just dealing with it - with the engine still in the car.

I like to think I learned not to do this the first time, when, at 17 with my first Datsun 1600 it too 8 weeks to do a headgasket change...

For future reference I enjoy shoving a broom all the way down the timing cover to prevent the tensioner popping out.

I didn't have a Datsun for 13 years, but still had the wedge shaped bit of wood in my toolbox...

Daewoo

[RiCkY TuTtY]

Couple of things can cause this... How much is it missing by??? Did you jam a spark plug socket or block of wood down the timing case before you removed the chain from the camshaft???

the locating pin on the camshaft is off by barely a millimeter.... i know stupid me i didnt put anything down there....

If it is only missing by a couple of mm, it will most likely be the sprocket and camshaft are a little out of alignment, and you need to leaver it on as best you can, and then turn the camshaft a little each way until it pops on...

i have tried this to the best of my ability but unfortunately it wont budge due to the tensioner

If it is more than a few mm, it is probably because the tensioner has poped out (because you didn't jam it up with a spark plug socket or piece of wood)... look down the timing case on the left side of the motor as you are facing it... there is a little piston that pushes against the chain guide to keep pressure on the chain and stop it flopping about... it can only slide out, and not in by itself, it has a little flap that locks it out... you push on the back of the flap to lift it up and let the piston slide back inwards... If it is still horizontal, you can fix it without too much problem... slide something down to put a pressure on the tensioner so it can't pop out any further, and then undo the bolts on the outside, left hand side, of the timing case that hold the tensioner spring in... don't let the spring shoot out or it is hard to find... then use a long screw driver to lift the flap that lets the tensioner move outwards but not inwards... that will let the tensioner slide all the way back in again... Say a quiet prayer if you got out of it that easily...

i will be giving this a try 2mora, hopefully i will have luck, send out a prayer for me!

unfortunately, if it has completely poped out, you are in a world of pain... you can try and get it to line up again, remove the spring as above, use wire to tie the chain up and keep tension on the timing chain (to stop if falling off the bottom sprocket) while holding it against the right side of the timing case to give you room to work.... then get a hook of coathanger under the tensioner, and try and lift it up and get it started in the hole... then use a long screwdriver to keep pressure on it while you use another screwdriver to lift the tab and let is slide all the way back in...

i hope that i wont have to find this out!

Make sure no little kids are around to hear your swearing, 'cause this a very frustrating job, and very difficult... if the tenioner pops out and falls into the sump, you are screwed, and you need to remove the timing case, which also means removing the harmonic balancer and the sump... almost impossible with the engine in the car...

I tried to find a good photo so I could draw onto it the bits I am talking about, but alas, can't find anything...

Best of Luck,

Cheers,

Daewoo

thankyou so much for ur generosity with taking your time to help me out!

By the sounds of it the timing chain tensioner popped out. I've made this error a lot - and am expert for swearing for a while and then just dealing with it - with the engine still in the car.

Disconnect battery and remove spark plug number one. Remove your grill and radiator. Pull everything off the front of the engine (fan etc) bar the water pump. Don't remopver the head, just the rocker cover. The harmonic balancer (or crank pulley if your prefer) can be loosened by chocking the cam with an adjustable wrench - it has lugs in the centre of the cam for this purpose. If you don't chock the cam the engine will turn over without the bolt loosening. Loosen your sump a little. Remove the 2 little number 10 bolts from head to timing cover. Remove timing cover. Pop your tensioner back in its home (having fished it out of the sump with a magnet). reassemble with new (timing cover etc) gaskets as necessary. Make a real effort not to damage head/sump gasket as replacing them sucks. At least setting up the timing chain/cam position is really easy with timing cover off. Be sure that number 1 piston is at TDC exactly when you position your cam sprocket.

For future reference I enjoy shoving a broom all the way down the timing cover to prevent the tensioner popping out.

Best of luck.

i hope with also Daewoo's instructions aswell i wont have to find this out!!!

Thankyou both so much for ur help and information! Highly appreciated!

[coupe72001]

A few highly dodgey tricks:

Choose if the tensioner isn't all the way popped out, make sure your block of wood, broom etc is cramming it all the way back into its home. You want no tension on the chain at all before you try to get the sprocket back on.

Try not to shave splinters of wood into the engine.

Jiggle your cam back and forth using a wrench on the lugs till the cam sprocket hole is perfectly lined up with the little lug on the cam. You'll be able to see without the cam bolt and washer (and a bloody great broom handle) in your way.

Finally, if it really is only 1mm off, and you are sure the cam and sprocket are lined up, try threading the cam bolt in and s-l-o-w-l-y tightening it. Not recommended in the manual, but I have got a sprocket to click home this way.

[RiCkY TuTtY]

A few highly dodgey tricks:

Choose if the tensioner isn't all the way popped out, make sure your block of wood, broom etc is cramming it all the way back into its home. You want no tension on the chain at all before you try to get the sprocket back on.

Try not to shave splinters of wood into the engine.

Jiggle your cam back and forth using a wrench on the lugs till the cam sprocket hole is perfectly lined up with the little lug on the cam. You'll be able to see without the cam bolt and washer (and a bloody great broom handle) in your way.

Finally, if it really is only 1mm off, and you are sure the cam and sprocket are lined up, try threading the cam bolt in and s-l-o-w-l-y tightening it. Not recommended in the manual, but I have got a sprocket to click home this way.

Very dodgey work there a coupe! but that could surely work, from wat u guys have explained to me as well as a mechanic (next door to my party hire shop i work at) that by trying to do that fiddly business with the tensioner (i dont think it has 'sprung out') it should work

MY dilemma is that im worried about the most is, is that - has the chain moved on the cranks worm gear for the chain....

Edited May 24, 2010 by RiCkY TuTtY

[coupe72001]

If the chain is on the wrong tooth then the groove in the sprocket won't line up with the timing mark on the cam tower.

You'll have too unbolt the cam sprocket, and carefully reposition the chain by a tooth. A sharpie (pen) is great to mark which chain link/tooth you were on as a reference. Jiggle your cam so the cam sprocket hole and its lug line up again and take 2. I'm usually one tooth off every time - but with the tensioner chocked and the chain slack repositioning is easy enough.

[Daewoo]

Further to what coupe72001 was saying...

When you are building the engine on a stand with all the covers off, and good vision, I think that there are shinny links on the timing chain, which you line up with a dot on the crank gear, and one of the numbers on the cam sprocket... shinny links schminny links I say...

Fist job, get the tensioner back in... don't worry about the chain (but don't let it fall in so fat that you can't reach it)... with the spring off the tensioner, it shouldn't pop out again, so you don't need to jam it back too hard... Jam a spark plug socket, broom handle, or proper wedge like this in there to stop it moving back out, but without a spring, the timing chain should be able to turn with the crank, or just let it fall off the bottom gear so it doesn't come into the part of the setting up at all...

Set the engine to Top Dead Centre (TDC) by turning the crank backwards and forwards a little bit with a screw driver in number one spark plug, when the screw driver stops going up, and starts going down, that is TDC...

Pull the chain back up tight so it seats properly on the bottom gear... (make sure the two rows are over the two rows of teeth)...

Insert the gear under the chain... Line up the wedge cut out of the cam sprocket with the tiny line cut into the camshaft retaining plate... shuffle one tooth at a time either way until it lines up perfectly... turn the camshaft backwards and forwards with a big shifter on the lugs about half way along the camshaft... rock it backwards and forwards until the sprocket lips onto the pin like a finger in a bum...

Job done...

Daewoo

[RiCkY TuTtY]

this pic i have just taken and thats all i can see at this point in time...

on the L/H side looking down under the guide i cant see anything but black

*NOTE* i had tied the chain to the bonnet so it will not fall

**NOTE** i dont have a good enough torch or any source of light to shine down there either

***NOTE*** when u look at the pic, the L/H side of the pic is south and the R/H side is north of the motor

Edited May 25, 2010 by RiCkY TuTtY

[Daewoo]

this pic i have just taken and thats all i can see at this point in time...

on the L/H side looking down under the guide i cant see anything but black

*NOTE* i had tied the chain to the bonnet so it will not fall

**NOTE** i dont have a good enough torch or any source of light to shine down there either

***NOTE*** when u look at the pic, the L/H side of the pic is south and the R/H side is north of the motor

Can't really see anything from the picture...

You need to look between the left hand guide, and the very left hand side of the timing case...