Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have a 1996 R33 gtst, resently had a problem arure,

I'll try to describe it..

The car hits boost starts to pull then at higher revs sounds like it is goin but its not

pulling anywere near how it should..

The car has a boost tap but only running around 8psi atm.. fmic and cat back exhaust..

I tryed running a straight line just from the actator straight to the cooler pipe (same result) i then tryed swaping the a.f.m (still same) the car was serviced 2k ago, im quite sure all the clamps on the cooler are tite, i replaced the spark plugs yestarday and all coil packs seem to be in good order.. I hav also changed the b.o.v thinking that it could be leaking .. (still same)

So im quite confused as to wat the problem could be../???

I know its real hard to diagnose with out seeing the car,

but just thought id ask the question

Thanx for any advice you can offer :banana:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320851-r33-s2-no-top-end-power/
Share on other sites

Yea i changed the fule filter 2k ago as well, and the car was running like it a couple days ago i changed and plugs and the coils seem to be fine not cracked or anything and its still running the same..??

also it seams just b4 in goes to hit boost it hesatates a bit, and again in higher revs more so under aggresive acceleration...???

Umm the plugs are ...... the bloke from aout barn recons there perfect for the rb alredy no need to re-gap them..?? im gunna change all the coils today as well c how we go..??

Another question iz there any advantage to moving the a.f.m to the cooler piping and having just a straight pipe of the frount of the turbo (all with starndard computer) ...???

re-gap to 0.8mm... if weaker coils, higher powered cars, also considering age..

it's a laugh if your getting technical advice from auto barn.. i would look at one of the sponsors on here to get your equipment.. (also for supporting the people that support you)

I recommend Kudos on here as he checked all info and gave reasons as to why choose different items... instead of just reading what the manual states..

Edited by .:: GimpS-R34 ::.

well today i pulled the fuel pump out seems to be in good working order, changed the coil paks, changed the plugs coulpe of days ago (gapped at 0.6mm) changed the air flow meter, checked all cooler clamps. changed the b.o.v just in case it was leaking... still same resault after all that ....???

Really running outa ideas...

Lol ahahah good point but im saying like no power dies in the ass bad! iv had a skyline 4 around 2 years i know how it was and how it should be lol.. i would say turbo yea but its not blowing any smoke and if u ease into it, it goes ok it when ur flat to the floor (to quike on the acceleratore) that it stuffs up..??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sharing results from recent Liberty Walk R35 GTR, since they are still considered as somesort of a V36 Skyline. We do them turbos too. This are high flowed SS-1 models with ball bearing conversion done.  Car have managed to pull 485awkws @ 20Psi so far pushing limitations of factory built engine. The build list for R35 GTR enthusiasts as follow : HyperGear high flowed stock turbos in SS1 (G25-660 specs) Custom titanium intake pipes. Vspec performance titanium front pipes. Vspec performance 4" titanium exhaust. Upgrade fuel pumps. 1200cc injectors. Ignition coilpacks Hks intake plenum. Hks intercooler piping. Greddy intercooler. Greddy bovs. Top-secret coolant reservoir. Emtron ecu. Straight E85. Built gear box.  
    • Nah no bearings, just slip fit.  Would be a reasonably challenging but not impossible job to modify it to run bearings but I'm hoping that's not necessary as I may have well built one myself if I end up spending hours modifying it!
    • Brumbys with good shells are bloody expensive, I've looked at 2 "cheaper" cars, and walked away from both,  plus after some research spare parts are fairly sparce I'm starting to think that I missed the boat on finding a clean one that is straight (ish) and without alot rust I'm starting to think about a old Hilux as panels and other parts are much more available as they sold tens of thousands of them I use to be indecisive but now I'm not sure
    • A Brumby would probably fit a big metal toolbox in the back... this is how it begins  
    • Picked up a new OEM boot seal for the MX5 today as the old one got ripped a bit by me being a idiot by seeing if I could fit a large metal tool box in it, it didn't fit, and ripped the seal with the corner of the tool box I am still waiting on time to get the cams and new balancer installed, as well as the repairs to the boot Time will not be an issue soon though
×
×
  • Create New...