Jump to content
SAU Community

Rounded My Sump Plug!

Mean_R34

By Mean_R34,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

Mean_R34 Mentor

Mean_R34

Posted
Posted

Last night I decided to service my car. In the process of undoing the sump plug, I rounded it to the point I can't.

Tried plumber's stilsons, hoping the teeth would grip it but to no avail.

Filed back the head to square. Had a thought of hacksawing the head and using a large blade screwdriver but the bolt seems to be a fairly soft metal.

Anyone got any ideas from here?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320914-rounded-my-sump-plug/
Share on other sites
THR34T Mentor

THR34T

Posted
Posted
Last night I decided to service my car. In the process of undoing the sump plug, I rounded it to the point I can't.

Tried plumber's stilsons, hoping the teeth would grip it but to no avail.

Filed back the head to square. Had a thought of hacksawing the head and using a large blade screwdriver but the bolt seems to be a fairly soft metal.

Anyone got any ideas from here?

drill through the plug n get a new bolt? lol

ashneel Grand Master

ashneel

Posted
Posted

get a smaller size socket that you dont need to buy a cheapo one and bash it onto the sump plug and undo it. did the same wheni had my R33. was the only way to get it out. or as mentioned above drillit out but just be carefull you dont f**k the threads up ont he sump

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

^ Yep smaller socket

or

Easy out - one of those mobile people that get manifold studs out of the head (Thread Doctor), should be able to do it.

They are quite reasonable priced if thats what it comes too (couple hundred or less)

krzysztof Mentor

krzysztof

Posted
Posted

get a better pair of vice grips.. if there is still a head on the nut, regardless if its rounded, jam some vice grips on there but do them up soo tight that its almost hard to get them to clamp, after this your better of knocking the vice clamps with a hammer (leftie loosie rightie tightie), than trying to undo them with your hands as the impact will have a better effect..

if you can't undo them with this, which i find hard to believe then get someone to weld a bar on there, if your doing it right it'll either come out or your'll snap the head off the bolt, if this happens i wouldn't bother with an easy out as its well and properly stuck all you'll end up doing is snapping the easy then its just a bigger pain in ass..

next step work out what size its meant to be and drill and re-tap the thread..

good luck

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted (edited)

i remember that sparkplug thread. some guy got work done at a workshop, and came home to find that. shocker!!

oh yeah. vice grips would be my first step. super tight. you may even need multigrips to close the vice grips :thumbsup:

Edited by Munkyb0y
Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

Amen to vicegrips. These suckers are so great with bolts and no sump plug on any engine should be too tight for vice grips. If it is, then the person who put the sump plug back in did an awful job of it!

Don't think I have to tell you to use a new sump plug and washer afterwards lol.

Mean_R34 Mentor

Mean_R34

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for all the advice guys. I did think of the tack weld, but looked around and no welder.

I might go with the smaller cheapo socket + hammer.

The spark plug is a great idea, but might drop my road clearance belong 100mm. :)

^ Yep smaller socket

or

Easy out - one of those mobile people that get manifold studs out of the head (Thread Doctor), should be able to do it.

They are quite reasonable priced if thats what it comes too (couple hundred or less)

A COUPLE OF HUNDRED??!! How is that reasonable Ash?

_Ryan_ Grand Master

_Ryan_

Posted
Posted
Thanks for all the advice guys. I did think of the tack weld, but looked around and no welder.

I might go with the smaller cheapo socket + hammer.

The spark plug is a great idea, but might drop my road clearance belong 100mm. :)

A COUPLE OF HUNDRED??!! How is that reasonable Ash?

sif a sump wouldnt be cheaper?

paulR32gtr Mentor

paulR32gtr

Posted
Posted
....or get a file and file the nut to a smaller socket size, at least this way no drilling, no bashing, no vicegrip.....involve and you could actually use it again.

Yeah just file it flat on opposite sides and use a big shifter spanner ... don't know about using it again though!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • soviet_merlin
      Thanks Santa (the neverending trials of the 400,000klm, 400kw, RB30, manual swapped Stagea)

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Thanks Duncan! Yeah it's street use for me only. Maybe occasional track day. Any difference in noise when running with the two pumps? I would expect the lift pump to be more quiet than the main pump so hopefully not? And yes, unfortunately quite a big price difference to the simple hanger setup. Though I'm usually willing to trade money for better reliability and future-proofing. Buy once, cry once and all that. I'd be very happy to never have to deal with fuel pump / wiring issues again  
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Bonnet clearance?
    • joshuaho96
      Magnetic Drain Plug Snapped in Half

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
×
×
  • Create New...