Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So in the past few months I've done the following to my rs4... Fmic, pod, 3" turbo back, boost control and a sift kit.

I have plans to do nisstune this month I spose. But have been thinking am I better off holding out on nisstune and doing fuel/turbo 1st??

If so, what's the best set of injectors to run, I've hears good things about s15 jdm ones..??

Fuel pump? Walbro over a Bosch sounds to be the way to go?

And turbo? Should I hiflow mine? Get a hiflowed vg30 or what?

Anything eles I'm missing?? Fuel rail isn't nessasary Is it?

Is the weakest part of my engin now going to be my unopened block?

Thanx guys :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/320927-few-questions-for-my-next-few-mods/
Share on other sites

So in the past few months I've done the following to my rs4... Fmic, pod, 3" turbo back, boost control and a sift kit.

I have plans to do nisstune this month I spose. But have been thinking am I better off holding out on nisstune and doing fuel/turbo 1st??

If so, what's the best set of injectors to run, I've hears good things about s15 jdm ones..??

Fuel pump? Walbro over a Bosch sounds to be the way to go?

And turbo? Should I hiflow mine? Get a hiflowed vg30 or what?

Anything eles I'm missing?? Fuel rail isn't nessasary Is it?

Is the weakest part of my engin now going to be my unopened block?

Thanx guys :thumbsup:

s2? if not a nisstune is hard to do

i've heard go bosch over walbro

you can use xr6t injectors and space the rail a bit - only should be ~$500 and the are around 600cc i think (dunno about s15 injectors tho)

if its a s2 then highflow the stock turbo cos its got the bigger rear housing (same as r34) and good for nearly 20psi and 270rwkw

you will need a z32 for that much boost tho

block should be ok for all of that tho if the tune is good

personaly i'd do the fuel pump and nisstune asap

a tune as you are now should get you at least another 20kw and should get your fuel consumption down

then highflow

then injectors (or both at the same time)

and a retune

whats your power goal? and budget?

Can you nistune an RB25? last time I checked with them they didn't make a board for 25's? could be wrong?

Also your unopened block should be good for 400hp+ with a decent tune so I wouldn't worry too much :thumbsup: (emphasis on good tune lol)

Edited by streatracer

A good tune will not be cheap so you only want to do it say twice.

Get a better fuel pump. Bosch is better than Walbro although if you are going for 300kw then an intank Walbro and exterior Bosch is a good combination.

Assuming you have an S2 get the Nistune set boost at 12psi and get a good tune.

Next stage ideally needs to be done altogether although just the turbo will be ok if money is tight but it does mean an extra tune: Highflow your present turbo and set to 1 bar (15-16psi) and retune...should give you around 220kw (or for a few hundred more get a new GT3076.

Then injectors (S15 JDM 480s -not sure if they fit the neo -or new 550s) and a Z32afm. Your stock fuel rail will be ok for well over 300kw. A good tune should give you 150 - 160+ kw depending on how good your fmic is. Your unopened block "should" take this power ok so long as it is in good nick to start with, you use a quality oil and have ensured a good fuel supply and you have a top quality tuner (this last is critical).

Yes s2 sorry!!

I'm going to be doing things slowly slowly... I'm thinking what I'll do it just tune it once for obvious reasons...

Does any one no what Bosch fuel pump to grab, 044 or 040? I no 019?? Is too big!?

How many psi will my stock afm b good for, I don't c my self pushing over 16 psi would I?

And injectors I no the jdm s15 ones go into s1 but idk bout s2... What's needec to get the xr6t inj fitted?

I'll put my fuel pump in, save up n get hiflow or gt3076, inj and nisstune at once.. What can I hope to see power wise you rekn :)

Can you nistune an RB25? last time I checked with them they didn't make a board for 25's? could be wrong?

Also your unopened block should be good for 400hp+ with a decent tune so I wouldn't worry too much :) (emphasis on good tune lol)

rb25 neo can be tuned - r34 ecu runs the show, its the r33 ecu that is untuneable

Yes s2 sorry!!

I'm going to be doing things slowly slowly... I'm thinking what I'll do it just tune it once for obvious reasons...

Does any one no what Bosch fuel pump to grab, 044 or 040? I no 019?? Is too big!?

How many psi will my stock afm b good for, I don't c my self pushing over 16 psi would I?

And injectors I no the jdm s15 ones go into s1 but idk bout s2... What's needec to get the xr6t inj fitted?

I'll put my fuel pump in, save up n get hiflow or gt3076, inj and nisstune at once.. What can I hope to see power wise you rekn :P

044 is an external fuel pump

040 is the same pump as an 044 but set up as an internal pump - the conversion has been covered on here heaps of times and needs a little modification but will be good for all the mods you want to do

do the fuel pump relay rewire to get a constant voltage at the pump

the afm will max out after the turbo

stock turbo is good for 12psi max

nisstune for 12psi and leave it for that, it will see you with good gains over the stock tune and you should save on fuel if you get a good tune

then save for turbo, afm, injectors (afm and injectors max out at around the same time)

then tune again and your done

its in the tutorial section on here

basically run a wire from the battery directly to the fuel pump and use the existing pump wiring to switch a relay that connects the direct wire to the new pump

its more a trick for older skylines due to the current draw of the bigger pump and the older wiring

in 32's you sometimes only get 11 or 12 volts at the pump due to voltage drop across the wiring so you dont get full flow out of the pump

Just a thought, maybe go for a bosch 044 and mount it in-tank and adapt the factory sock to fit. This way you won't loose any capacity due to the pump sitting higher in the tank, plus the sock will keep any large lumps of poo from getting into the pump.

the fuel pump wiring mod is also because on the stock setup a fuel pump control module steps the voltage down a bit at idle, this slows the pump down. i think the intention was to get it to run quieter during idle. this lower voltage feed will cause aftermarket pumps to fail/burn out as most of them require 12v+.

also, make sure that the seimens/deka injectors either, will plug into the neo's injector loom, or they come with a plug kit (cut original plugs off and wire into new plugs).

QWK32.. thanx mate.

does any one know witch seimens ones im after?? has any one used them b4?

im still undecided on fuel pump... i think ill go 040... but ive heard walbro are easyer to install??

is there different ways to hiflow a turbo..?? i really do no stuff all about turbos them self lol!.. still unsure to get this hyper gear high flow

or a gt3076??... will a gt3076r fit btw??

when you get a turbo high flowed they:

split housings

remove old impeller

machine housing to accept bigger turbines

fit bigger steel turbines to the core (usually by puting a new core in)

balance core/blades

put it back together

bosch are harder to fit but flow more and are generally more reliable

Bosch 040 flows more will probably last longer. In either case directly wire them (at least 2 tutorials in Skyline section).

I had good results from my GCG (ball bearing) highflow but some people have had good results from hypergear which is quite a bit cheaper - have a read of the threads in the forced induction section.

Not a bad idea to save up for the lot and do it all at once (although you could do the fuel pump asap) so then you are only getting one tune. I don't know where you live but get a really good specialist tuner - not just the shop that installs the turbo etc. A good tuner can get the best out of your mods while minimising the odds of blowing up!

There has been some good suggestions and some bad ones in this thread.

Before you go racing off buying parts. you need to set a realistic power goal and budget before you can decide what you need to upgrade. You don't want to do things twice.

I have just finished the gt3076R and siemen injectors along nistune etc. Costs run away very very quickly

Booked in for tuning this Friday. Will let you know how it goes. Good or bad.

Darren I c your points there, I've looked into it more now, seems the 040 is too loud, so walbro it is!

Also can someone fill me in with the hiflow, y is hypergear only like 1k?

Do they all fit gt30 internals? Or are there budget ways to do it? Naturaly I'd spend the few extra dollars to get a safer more reliable turbo...

siemens 550cc injectors for 400hp, or 650cc for 450hp. links as per my pm.

walbro 255lph pump for $150 fits intank. bosch 040 intank for $200 isnt that loud really.

hypergear turbos are journal bearing. for $1500 + you get into the ball-bearing Garrett range.

a GT3076r bolt-on for skyline 6-bolt housing is the way to go for 400hp. get your current stock turbo highflowed to a gt3076r

either bill at ATS marion rd, or stao at hypergear - get some quotes for a bolt-on upgrade.

horsepower inabox sells a bolton for $2250, ATS for around same price. garrett ball bearing good for 270kwaw

nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator if you feel the need, around $150 prior to getting the nistune ecu tuning.

~ or go all out, grab a twin turbo manifold kit for the rb25 and grab 2x gtr turbo's :cool:

Whoah, first post for a while... good to see you are finally stepping up Adam. 040 is not loud, come for a sit in mine to check. 044 external is mega loud, or at least it is on my cousins old Supra.

Seimens - Deka injectors are easy to find (Google it) and are around $360 for the set + $40 shipping. I have seen no definitive reviews on them but for the cost they can't be beat. S15 injectors shouldn't fit yours as I believe the neo injectors have a different feed position (Top vs Side).

Highflow is the safest bet for 'official' purposes, should net you 220awkw with the auto, 3076r is a more sizable turbo and is direct bolt-on if you buy the right kit. It should get you to 260awkw easily, then you can start worrying about g/box etc (If I'm not mistaken). It is defectable though, as are all aftermarket turbos in S.A. so bear that in mind. I think there was one SAU member with an R33 skyline who ran up to 360rwkw with an ethanol tune on a 3076r, search the forums for his story under forced induction I think. 3076r is a capable turbo and not too much laggier than the stocky, should be all the way on song by 3500.

As far as highflow prices are concerned, you will pay more for BB core highflows and they are apparently easier to look after and more responsive than journal bearing cores (Has been debated as to response difference.). I would try to talk to someone who has had both to make an informed decision (Tangles?).

As everyone has said (and we have previously discussed) go with the nistune set-up being that it's an S2, and for that sake of cash flow I would wait until you have the turbo/fuel pump/injectors for the tune as each tune will cost upwards of $250 in S.A. I would spend a lot of time talking to people about where to get it tuned, as I was extremely unhappy with my experience and it wasn't cheap.

Cheers!

Edited by stageaharts

Bosch pumps are good but the 044 is the choice, I think it still flows 200lph at 75psi and can be mounted internally.

Seimens Deka's are a great budget injector, just make sure you get the XR6 4 hole ones in 3/4 length. Im running 250awkw of E85 through 610's with no issue. (Fuel rail will be 10mm higher)

Bush bearings are great for the low noise stealth effect. They initially take a bit to get spinning but once they are... I think they support higher shaft speeds with the right oil. With the small rear housing on my rebuilt stocker, and a t04e front wheel mine makes positive boost by 2000 revs and hits 20psi by 2700. Extremely responsive for that power I think. If you get a highflow done don't go a big wheel on the rear as the stock housings wont allow that much flow anyway and all you will gain is lag.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's about the same time for me from Bunnings, or the Fasteners. My big push away from takeaway food, and gluten in general keeps me away from the Bunnings Snags too! Weather up here, I've been out for two walks today in the beautiful sunshine. Had a few little drizzles, and some wind, that honestly, a tin of beans and I could compete on how harsh she blows Thankfully, being this bit inland, we're not getting anything much really. Will probably pick up a bit more when/if Cyclone Alfie decides to come ashore. A few areas in the GC though, and south into NSW are really getting smashed though! Right now, I'm just annoyed Alfie hasn't hit, as I'm not allowed to crack into the BBQ foods like the bacon and eggs until the Cyclone hits "In case we lose power"...
    • I love fastener joints, the price difference between them and joints like Bunnings or Super Cheap is amazing, and they either have exactly what you want, or they can get it to quick They have even given me some for free when I only needed a couple of specific size In saying this, I have paid premium for fasteners from Bunnings if they have the sizes I need, but only for convenience really, as my local is only 10 minutes away, the Sushi joint near them is also a consideration  How's the weather Matt? Stay safe mate
    • Wideband is worth setting up if only for tuning purposes. I would not mess with the ignition system unless there's a misfire. HKS crank trigger is popular out here for the relatively easily sourced Denso crank sensor, not a bad idea to install as well regardless of power level on a standalone. Boost leak test is worth thinking about. Oil pressure sensor tied to a fuel cut isn't a bad idea either. Getting the tune figured out is a good idea. Without putting eyes on it and getting under it there's no way for us to tell you exactly what it needs but most likely you're down to the last 10% that will make a big, big difference in how happy you are with the car.
    • Doing a refresh of my 33 and can see a few websites stating they sell the entire main carpet for our cars, but they all have generic photos which is fine, i understand they are custom made to order.  Just seeing if anyone has got it done or had any experience with this, as i would only want to do it if the fit and finish was as good as oem https://carmatsdirect.com.au/products/moulded-carpet-or-vinyl-for-nissan-skyline-r33-1993-1998-coupe https://knoxautocarpets.com.au/moulded-carpets/nissan/skyline/skyline-r-33-1993-1998/
    • Any plans for E85? If so, add flex fuel sensor.   I'd probably add in the sensors I mentioned above if the Link will support using them for engine protection. With water pressure, you need to be able to effectively set it that "If temp > X, and pressure = atmospheric, shutdown" as at running temp, you should be able to read pressure in the cooling system. If pressure suddenly disappears, it means the water went some where, and this is a quicker reaction than waiting on water temp to go up (Which, can take a little longer than you'd like, considering it now has to wait for hot air to heat it up) Oil pressure, Oil temp, both would be on my list too if you're looking to add sensors. Wideband O2. And at least one EGT sensor. If you're feeling deluxe, put in individual runner EGTs. Single EGT sensor is more so forget about a specific number, get used to "What is normal EGTs", and then keep an eye on it, if it starts going away from "normal" it's a sign something is wrong (Also, things like the tune can still start going out of spec, but EGTs may not show it, for example one injector starts running leaning, so ECU richens everything up, now 5 out of 6 cylinders are rich, and running cool, with one cylinder lean and running hotter, so it's not perfect) Then there is your other things to look at non sensor related, but you may have already done, or have underway, and that would be things like building a sump for more oil, and better oil control under high G-Forces (Cornering, brakes, acceleration). Basically, the above is worth looking/thinking about, if the ECU can do protective stuff with it, and you continue to use it how you are (Drive it to the track, thrash it, drive home, repeat once every 3 to 4 months)
×
×
  • Create New...