Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My 040 was loud as f**k harts

and then again it was vapourizing fuel to the point were I had to crawl it home from the hills to the bay,so I pulled it out and went back to stock

fuel was so hot in the tank by the time I got it home I could hardly bear putting my hand in there to pull the cradle out

been talking to Adam bout all this

he knows what he needs to do in regards to budget and process

^^^ something was wrong then lol

i wouldn't choose anything besides an 040 personally

and they aren't stupid noisy if you insulate them from the cradle - that's why there is rubber stuff between the pump and cradle with OEM setup

Still confused here lol, I've got a set of injectors sourced, daka 550s need sum plugs for $60 but will cost my less than 400... I'll hunt for a good deal on fuel pump slowly... Doubt I'd notice the pump with my zorst!!

Spoke to hypergear, 960 for the hiflow, said my stock actuator will hate life after 15 psi, and should look at a wastegate controller??? WTF is this? Said he can sort these issues for an extra $200... What's the story here...

And what's this about lines not matching up

with hypergear??? They arnt touching them r they??

Still confused here lol, I've got a set of injectors sourced, daka 550s need sum plugs for $60 but will cost my less than 400... I'll hunt for a good deal on fuel pump slowly... Doubt I'd notice the pump with my zorst!!

Spoke to hypergear, 960 for the hiflow, said my stock actuator will hate life after 15 psi, and should look at a wastegate controller??? WTF is this? Said he can sort these issues for an extra $200... What's the story here...

And what's this about lines not matching up

with hypergear??? They arnt touching them r they??

under $400 for a set of 550's is a really good find. i'd agree with hypergear about the wastegate actuator not coping too well above 15psi, thats over 3 times the level it was designed for, 5psi. wastegate controller?, maybe they mean to get a new wastegate actuator from them, it make sense for the price. i had to get one for my turbo upgrade and it set me back about $185, so not far off $200.

don't know about the lines though. you'd think if they where taking your turbo and highflowing it, it should bolt back up easy?? is that what hypergear said?

another thing that may be an issue depending on you target power level, is the AFM. if only around the 220kw mark to start with you might get away with leaving it till after everything else is installed. then when you go in for the tune just ask the tuner how close to the stock AFM's limits your getting. then you'll know for sure if it needs to be upgraded.

and just a couple things that happened to me with my upgrade. when installing new injectors i didn't want to split the plenum to get to the fuel rail, you can do the swap without splitting it but there is very limited space to pull the fuel rail back off the injectors. you should be able to get it back just far enough to do the swap though, i found it tricky but doable. i just removed as much of the small bits that are in the way as i could e.g throttle body, fuel lines iacv line etc.

my stock BOV started failing (blowing off during acceleration) at boost pressures of 14-15psi. had to source and aftermarket plumb back. blocking it off was bad, constant stalling and backfiring.

and at the moment i don't have a shift kit for the auto (happeing very soon :D ), my stock auto box doesn't like the extra power during full throttle gear changes. i have to back off to half throttle to let the auto grab the next gear before planting it again, it gets very annoying lol.

Take your wastegate actuator off and take it to bill at Ats,he will cut it and thread it With a fitting on the end,so that's it's completely adjustable

that's what I did and it's 40bucks and takes 10minutes

Take your wastegate actuator off and take it to bill at Ats,he will cut it and thread it With a fitting on the end,so that's it's completely adjustable

that's what I did and it's 40bucks and takes 10minutes

damn, $240/hr :)

40 bucks for an adjustable wastegate and a free chat with bill for advice and pointers is better than 200bucks for an actuator in my book

bill is the turbo messiah in Adelaide

I rang him to ask about the Rb20 actuators,he said you mite get lucky and get one with a tight spring,and if you get one with a sloppy spring,it's useless and not easily replaceable

so ive ordered a walbro gss342 fuel pump... havnt got it yet ... but can someone quickly run me threw the instalation.

ive spoken to rodders about it and hes keep to give me a hand... it comes with a 32 33 34 mounting bracket aswell :D nb for 118 new!....

im going to look at this constant wire up thingo ive been hearing about... can someone lead me down the right path there

also im looking at z32 afm and ive come across a cop tail plug for the z32... it says its good for a 31 s14 silvias 180 32... is this going to work?? or is there a specific rb25 plug?

im guessing the going rate is around the 200 mark for plug and afm?

You need to

1. try using the search function

2. read the diy in the stagea section and also the skyline section.

You will find things like:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Z3...=z32+afm+wiring

and (for stagea remove spare wheel cover and the floor panel to its right):

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/To...mp-t253097.html

(walbro is simpler but you get the idea)

  • 1 month later...

so... just wondering if you guys can think of anything i may be missing bout to get my tune...

255lph walbro fuel pump

HKS 2535 turbo adj actuator

z32 afm

pod with solid intake

3" strait threw zorst

profec b spec 2 EBC

advan fmic

620cc siemens deka injectors

100% plumb back turbosmart Kompact BOV

shift kit

will be tuned with nisstune

there no point doing an exhaust manifold is there??

also going to do a better radiator i think and a bigger trans cooler...

looks like you've got it all sorted. assuming your coilpacks are in good working order i'd just throw in a new set of spark plugs before sending it to get tuned. stock exhaust manifold will be good enough for the turbo you have chosen.

Adam what about Transfilter ,a remote OIL FILTER KIT ,same as Engine Oil set up but Trans oil ,Good luck ,

Cheer`s Chuckie.

is this really a worth mod tho??

think i made a good choise with the turbo... i do a bit of towing and 100% street driving... so nice bit of pick up :banana: and good re sale :ermm:

yeah am going to do that... get my .8 on :).... coil packs are fine at the moment... its not going to change anything if i change them after the tune tho is it?

Edited by chef_stagea
is this really a worth mod tho??

think i made a good choise with the turbo... i do a bit of towing and 100% street driving... so nice bit of pick up :P and good re sale :D

yeah am going to do that... get my .8 on :D .... coil packs are fine at the moment... its not going to change anything if i change them after the tune tho is it?

Well i think so as ANY FILTER ON OIL is a GREAT THING to have,& will help with TOWING,

As there`s no Filter on them,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Mate you saved be from dying in the Perth summer. AC wasn't changing direction and just going into diagnostics mode fixed it. You're a legend and I would shout you a beer if I could!
    • Unfortunately effort gone to waste, you will have substantial issues with how the manifold and wastegate have been integrated. You would be so much better off with a modified stock manifold like this: https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25detexgatedmanifold/   OR literally just getting a off the shelf Sinco or 6Boost manifold as myself and others have mentioned.  
    • Yuck. But it's kinda the same principle, moving timing around to make car run bad but sound good.... I went for a more spirited tuning drive to iron out a few things. Car no longer stalls, and it loved to dip RPM low when you clutch in. After tuning this (and the 4-5 tables that HPTuners/LS1 OEM ECU wants for idle air correction) it's now behaving somewhat normal. All expected because there's a new TB, new Intake manifold and that new TB which is 102mm vs 78... has an entirely different IAC passage which is smaller because ????? Unfortunately at this point I went to make further fine tuning changes to avoid it flaring up, you know... _tuning_ the HPTuners dongle died. Well to be more accurate - The USB cable died in a fashion that anyone who has ever charged a phone will recognize. After the app demanding I resync it 50 or so times (which all 'succeeded' but all failed) the device does not want to sync and I've logged a ticket with support to see if it's fixable. US Support said it was a 'storage issue' but after removing the SD card inside it and formatting it/fixing it the issue does persist. Unfortunately usually the fix is "Turn in your old dongle and pay $700 for the upgraded one" it's cheaper because I get some free licence credits I unfortunately don't need. However I'm 10 minutes down the road from HP Tuners AUS/VCM so at least I won't need to post it, and logged a new ticket for support over here. Definitely drives different. My SOTP dyno believes it's probably making 310-320kw instead of the 280 before.  It scrambles for traction a little now whereas it previously different. It drives like a bigger cam car up top even though the cam is smaller, likely due to the cam not being advanced 6 degrees. The timing is deliberately low and the fuel is very rich so who knows if this will improve on the dyno. It may, imperceptably. Also funny is removing the pineapples definitely makes the car squat more and axle tramp less. So this behavior of having more top end, squatting more, and scrabbling for traction more makes me think = more power. But I could have just been sitting on the threshold of that kind of behavior before. Time will tell if my butt dyno is calibrated right. I need the exhaust leaks fixed before dyno tune for obvious AFR related reasons - I repositioned the pipes but I'm not confident it's fully sealed even if it is better. At least the car does drive around while I cannot tweak/tune it for now. And I have aircon again. medium success!
    • Don't use that manifold. Please don't use that manifold. Sunk cost fallacy is not worth the later pain. None of these will be relevant to the change that will come from the different turbo and manifold. As in, the effect of the exhaust will be nil, regardless of what else is changed. And all the cam and fuel system stuff is not changing either way, so has no effect. The turbo and manifold (and to a small extent the wastegate)....big change.
×
×
  • Create New...