Jump to content
SAU Community

Needing Some Help With Dyno Places


Isola
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Does anyone know of any places in Brisbane that do 4WD dynos and don't want testicles as payment? I want to get an at the wheels measurement of the power from my GTS4 so I know what I'm working with/towards for upgrades. I see a couple of places charging by the hour, but would it really take an hour to just to measure the power?

I would prefer Brisbane, but don't mind an hour or so drive if it saves me enough money. They don't even have to be an "import" garage, even just anyone who does custom fourbies that has a dyno. I don't need any tuning or anything like that done, just a simple power check.

Thanks :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Drop the drive shafts man and just get any normal dyno tuning house to do it. 4wd dyno's are an absolute rip. The read outs are the same as well. Confirmed this a couple of months ago when brandon got a dyno done. So fk 4wd dynos breh and save some money :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No Idea on how much any of these charge, but these places all apparently have 4wd dynos. What you want is a "Power Run".

Advanced Performance Centre

2928 Logan Road, Underwood

Contact:Nic

Phone: (07) 3341 7223

Email: [email protected]

Website: www.apc-racing.com.au

Bob Romano Performance Motors

387 Lytton Road, Morningside

Contact: Chris

Phone: (07) 3395 8255

Email: [email protected]

Website: www.bobromano.com.au

101 Motorsport

Unit 1 / 10 Judds Court, Slacks Creek

Contact: Grant

Phone: (07) 3209 5855

Email: [email protected]

Website: www.101motorsport.com.au

999 Automotive

Unit 3 / 806 Beaudesert Road, Coopers Plains

Contact: Lochlan

Phone: (07) 3272 9992

Email: [email protected]

Website: www.999automotive.com.au

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Performance Injection Tuning Services

Unit 10 / 42 Export Drive

Molendinar QLD 4214

Australia

Phone : 0411 34 00 33

Matt Spry

+1

Matt Spry is probably the best tuner in brisbane, dont mess him around though make sure your car is 100% ready to run

Link to comment
Share on other sites

im pretty sure power runs dont cost the same as tuning man i know that 999 charges around 50-80 i think for a power run, im sure it wont be much more than that at other places

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Excellent, thanks to everyone for the suggestions! I wasn't aware that a rear wheel reading would be the same as an all wheels reading so that's a big help :ninja:

I thought over $100 and being charged by the hour seemed excessive. Now I know to ask for a power run. I have lots of phone calls to make now.

Thanks again for all your help everyone. Mods I have copied all these suggestions out, so you may feel free to close this thread if you need to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

+1

Matt Spry is probably the best tuner in brisbane, dont mess him around though make sure your car is 100% ready to run

The PAYING customer can do what he likes :ninja:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Godzilla would be another recommendation.. in Tingalpa too.. he's now a sponsor on here so i would send him a PM and see what he says.. he installed and tuned my PFC originally so i also highly recommend him.. great bloke ... and you get to check out that sexxx of a 32GTR he's got...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

oh, just a power run?

list your mods we can probably guess roughly what your pushing

Your guess is as good as mine on that one. This car keeps throwing out little treats every time the guys and I work on it. I was told it was completely stock, but that was BS. The latest puzzlement is the turbo, we have no idea what that is.

That's kind of why I want to run it and see what it puts out, to see just how unstock it is without pulling it apart.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your guess is as good as mine on that one. This car keeps throwing out little treats every time the guys and I work on it. I was told it was completely stock, but that was BS. The latest puzzlement is the turbo, we have no idea what that is.

That's kind of why I want to run it and see what it puts out, to see just how unstock it is without pulling it apart.

if you take off the heat shield can you see the id tag? that would tell all

Link to comment
Share on other sites

probs would make 170-180kw. what your aim?

bang for buck

- gtr inj

- fuel pump

- rb25 turbo

- dump / front

- intercooler

- nistune chipped ecu

stock ecu is limited around 200kw.

Edited by 32_Dave
Link to comment
Share on other sites

yo

from what ive read over time im going to lock in an educated guess

i say 140-150kw as is (i havnt had a good look at your car in ages bro)

-exhaust

-pod

-fmic??

and then 170-185kw once all "bolt ons" are fitted and shes been tuned

-full 3" zorst

-pod

-fmic

-fuel pump

-rb25tubz

-dr drift (or ROM) ecu/nistune/emanage/adaptronic/etc

-ebc to 12-14psi

-gtr injectors

yeeeeww :P

let me know how it goes man! goodluck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTX2860R Gen 2 is an option. No, it doesn't actually do much. The basic problem with wanting 600 whp out of the factory twin turbo setup is a few things. One is that the twin turbo piping is just so, so inefficient. The front and rear turbos are not actually working evenly. The rear turbo is always moving more air than the front. On top of this the OEM rear compressor inlet is rubber that likes to collapse causing a huge intake restriction. The merge doesn't even wait until the intercooler to happen, and it happens at a 90 degree angle. This is why you see some discussion about "turbo shuffle", where in certain conditions one turbo can actually force air to go backwards into the other compressor and stall it out, then once the other turbo recovers it stalls out the first turbo in a cycle until you do something to break out of it. The other issue is that the RB26 is just not that efficient an engine. It needs a surprising amount of ignition timing to reach MBT for a given cylinder pressure so all that time in which the cylinder is pressurizing before TDC is just wasted energy. An N54 might be around 10 degrees BTDC on a stock turbo getting into the boost. An RB26 is closer to 25 BTDC. Net effect is a turbo roughly the size of what HKS uses on the GTIII-SS (smaller than the R3/GCG Japan "GT2860-1" -7s) is only good for maybe 550 crank hp or low 400 whp while a roughly comparable turbo on an N54 can deliver something like 700 crank hp and obviously drivetrain losses are greatly reduced when you aren't burning a bunch of power on keeping a hydraulic pump + transfer case preloaded all the time. So yes, you can make a lot of power but there's a reason why people go single turbo for the numbers you're asking about. Don't forget that the RB26 can't even do a straight line pull without oil starving on the stock oil pan either. Baffles can help, but really you just need more oil capacity.
    • Yeah sure, which messenger app is it?
    • would you like to be added to the messenger group?
    • Found some from 2009. The lobster bends were smoothed out on the inside with minimal gaps (perhaps 2mm) where the silicone joiners were used. 
    • And if you have to drive it in a civilised (or excessively woke) US state, find a way to register and insure it in a redneck state, so you can roll coal in it without worrying about legalities.
×
×
  • Create New...