Jump to content
SAU Community

Needing Some Help With Dyno Places

Isola

By Isola,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

Isola Grand Master

Isola

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Yeah, pretty much know what I'm aiming for parts wise thanks guys. The bigger question is what's in it already? So much "stock" stuff that's modified, that I may not need injectors/turbo etc because they might already be in there. For all I know, at the moment I'm only being limited by my AFM and tune! (one can dream anyway)

3" inch front/dump is on the list though to bring the whole exhaust up to size

Edited by Isola
Link to comment
Share on other sites
astrotristan Grand Master

astrotristan

Posted
Posted
Yeah, pretty much know what I'm aiming for parts wise thanks guys. The bigger question is what's in it already? So much "stock" stuff that's modified, that I may not need injectors/turbo etc because they might already be in there. For all I know, at the moment I'm only being limited by my AFM and tune! (one can dream anyway)

3" inch front/dump is on the list though to bring the whole exhaust up to size

full 3" will be hot

and yeh you're right, your ecu could already be ROMed from jap for 1bar/fmic/zorst or similar

keen to see what it makes :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Bunta Grand Master

Bunta

Posted
Posted
full 3" will be hot

and yeh you're right, your ecu could already be ROMed from jap for 1bar/fmic/zorst or similar

keen to see what it makes :P

Trouble with thast is it is probably also tuned to run on 101 octane or higher, not the shite they serve us up here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Brandon Veteran

Brandon

Posted
Posted
Yeah, pretty much know what I'm aiming for parts wise thanks guys. The bigger question is what's in it already? So much "stock" stuff that's modified, that I may not need injectors/turbo etc because they might already be in there. For all I know, at the moment I'm only being limited by my AFM and tune! (one can dream anyway)

3" inch front/dump is on the list though to bring the whole exhaust up to size

Just wait for some dyno day and jump in for a power run. Only cost like 50bucks for them instead of hiring a dyno (setup + run just for 1 car would be close to 1hr I would imagine, around 150/hr for 4wd dyno). And since 32 is just a fuse away from awd to rwd, I wouldnt be paying extra for awd at all.

Checking the turbo might be hard depending on how accessible they are but injectors should be easy. You can normally tell by the colour of them and jump on Nengun to check what size they are.

Andy: that 10kW is pretty subjective because temperature plays a bit part in dyno and every car is different (not really comparing apples with apples). Unless you got 2 dynos side by side and do the same car on the same day, the claim of gtr's awd power is higher than rwd mode power is quite hard to answer (due to attessa system).

Just for everyone's information, my car was tuned at Gavin Woods' using 4WD dyno and had 340awhp (end of august). But during the dyno day at EFI which was 2wd dyno, it only managed 330rwhp (21st november).

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Bunta Grand Master

Bunta

Posted
Posted
Andy: that 10kW is pretty subjective because temperature plays a bit part in dyno and every car is different (not really comparing apples with apples). Unless you got 2 dynos side by side and do the same car on the same day, the claim of gtr's awd power is higher than rwd mode power is quite hard to answer (due to attessa system).

I was talking about back to back runs on the same dyno with awd engaged vs disengaged, a friend of mine did it in Sydney and results were 10 to 15kw higher for rwd, which makes perfect sense as the AWD would rob some power.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
8znR33 Proficient

8znR33

Posted
Posted

depending where you go if you go toa place with dynopacks with the hubs it might be slightly more cause they have to take your wheels off but like sme places e.g. 999 i know that they have the dynodynamic (or what ever you call it) they have the rollers for all four wheels and i dont see how i would cost heaps more to just extend their ramps like 30cm or what ever so that your front wheels will sit on the rollers, its designed for that.

But im pretty sure power runs at 999 around 50-80 still even if its not a dyno day. but if you really want to find out why dot you just call them upand see how much a power run will cost ya.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Brandon Veteran

Brandon

Posted
Posted
I was talking about back to back runs on the same dyno with awd engaged vs disengaged, a friend of mine did it in Sydney and results were 10 to 15kw higher for rwd, which makes perfect sense as the AWD would rob some power.

Ok thats the first I've heard of and now I believe you. =P

I know it make sense but I've never actually know anyone that's done that before (running same car on same dyno on awd and rwd mode). Now you make me wonder how does the other awd car fair on the same test since they're dont have the same awd system (e.g. evo, wrx etc). But then again, loss gonna be different for all anyway so no point in trying to dig the facts out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
8znR33 Proficient

8znR33

Posted
Posted
Ok thats the first I've heard of and now I believe you. =P

I know it make sense but I've never actually know anyone that's done that before (running same car on same dyno on awd and rwd mode). Now you make me wonder how does the other awd car fair on the same test since they're dont have the same awd system (e.g. evo, wrx etc). But then again, loss gonna be different for all anyway so no point in trying to dig the facts out.

im not 100% sure how all the awd systems works but the gearbox to the front drive shaft would still be attached to the front diff and still be turning it wouldnt it? just because you take out a fuse does it mean that the front diff disconnects or something?? to get a true reading of power at the rears wouldnt you need to take out the drive shaft to the front??

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Bunta Grand Master

Bunta

Posted
Posted
im not 100% sure how all the awd systems works but the gearbox to the front drive shaft would still be attached to the front diff and still be turning it wouldnt it? just because you take out a fuse does it mean that the front diff disconnects or something?? to get a true reading of power at the rears wouldnt you need to take out the drive shaft to the front??

Only the R33 and the R34 have a preload to the front in a r32 you can just pull the fuse and run true rwd with out hurting the Attessa clutch packs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Isola Grand Master

Isola

Posted
  • Author
Posted
keen to see what it makes :D

me too, because it's been running 12psi this whole time and we never knew. Now it's set up for 12/14 on the MBC. 14 seemed safe as we don't know what the turbo is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
8znR33 Proficient

8znR33

Posted
Posted
Only the R33 and the R34 have a preload to the front in a r32 you can just pull the fuse and run true rwd with out hurting the Attessa clutch packs.

ahhhh trueeee. ok gotcha :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites
yaface Community Regular

yaface

Posted
Posted
me too, because it's been running 12psi this whole time and we never knew. Now it's set up for 12/14 on the MBC. 14 seemed safe as we don't know what the turbo is.

Stop being a slack ass jew and take the heat shield off the f**ker!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      2000 BNR34 new owner

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      GTX2860R Gen 2 is an option. No, it doesn't actually do much. The basic problem with wanting 600 whp out of the factory twin turbo setup is a few things. One is that the twin turbo piping is just so, so inefficient. The front and rear turbos are not actually working evenly. The rear turbo is always moving more air than the front. On top of this the OEM rear compressor inlet is rubber that likes to collapse causing a huge intake restriction. The merge doesn't even wait until the intercooler to happen, and it happens at a 90 degree angle. This is why you see some discussion about "turbo shuffle", where in certain conditions one turbo can actually force air to go backwards into the other compressor and stall it out, then once the other turbo recovers it stalls out the first turbo in a cycle until you do something to break out of it. The other issue is that the RB26 is just not that efficient an engine. It needs a surprising amount of ignition timing to reach MBT for a given cylinder pressure so all that time in which the cylinder is pressurizing before TDC is just wasted energy. An N54 might be around 10 degrees BTDC on a stock turbo getting into the boost. An RB26 is closer to 25 BTDC. Net effect is a turbo roughly the size of what HKS uses on the GTIII-SS (smaller than the R3/GCG Japan "GT2860-1" -7s) is only good for maybe 550 crank hp or low 400 whp while a roughly comparable turbo on an N54 can deliver something like 700 crank hp and obviously drivetrain losses are greatly reduced when you aren't burning a bunch of power on keeping a hydraulic pump + transfer case preloaded all the time. So yes, you can make a lot of power but there's a reason why people go single turbo for the numbers you're asking about. Don't forget that the RB26 can't even do a straight line pull without oil starving on the stock oil pan either. Baffles can help, but really you just need more oil capacity.
    • inark
      Vic Wasteland Thread - 15.0

      By inark · Posted

      Yeah sure, which messenger app is it?
    • Mohsen
      Vic Wasteland Thread - 15.0

      By Mohsen · Posted

      would you like to be added to the messenger group?
    • iamhe77
      M35 Stagea intake suction pipe

      By iamhe77 · Posted

      Found some from 2009. The lobster bends were smoothed out on the inside with minimal gaps (perhaps 2mm) where the silicone joiners were used. 
    • GTSBoy
      2000 BNR34 new owner

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      And if you have to drive it in a civilised (or excessively woke) US state, find a way to register and insure it in a redneck state, so you can roll coal in it without worrying about legalities.
×
×
  • Create New...