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Patched it up to keep dust and water out. I spoke to a bunch of mechanics who concluded (from my description) it'd be okay as is unless I was putting out massive kW. In retrospect I exaggerated the hole, about 1-1.5cm to 5-6cm. Anyways, couldn't afford to keep the car while at uni and work is unstable, so it's now sadly gone.

Missing the fun of driving a real car! I'll be back on the skyline horse soon

  • 6 months later...

if anyones still reading this thred, im having a similar problem,

didnt seem to be present on my test drive, went back the next week to pick the car up and it doesnt let me go from N to 1st most changes (a real bitch at the lights with the HD clutch)

previos owner said it only just started happening before i picked it up, so im thinkin it could be a few things.

1: he thrashed the shit outa it before finally selling it to me and so synchro dammage?

2: clutch not disengaging fully (haven't had time to addjust clutch point on gearbox but pulled the little rubber stopper off the clutch pedel giving about 1cm more pull on the clutch and moved the contact point right up the clutch position comparison to where it was....still having the problem...? 0.o)

3: piviot pin mentioned on page one of this thred, will check that out when i get time to get under the car

4: old/low gearbox oil or inconsistant clutch fluid(bubbles)

anyone have any other suggestions?

hoping its not option 1 as dont have the $$ for a rebuild :(

cheers guys ;)

Don't really see how thrashing it will damage the ability to get into first gear though. Does it feel like first is locked out or does it just grind?

Unless he was revving the shit out of it and tickling the shifter into gear, its not easy to ruin first gear, is it? Get the fluid in the box changed, get the nulon additive(g70) then see how she goes. If she still isn't right, check the whole clutch hydraulic setup. Maybe a failing master or slave?

I had the exact same problem in my old skyline. The spring in my master snapped into 4 pieces. The pedal occasionally got stuck but also did not build any pressure due to shit contaminating the oil.

^ That's what I'd do.

1. Check pivot bolt

2. Change gearbox oil (including the nulon additive, it's good stuff).

3. Check master and slave cylinders

4. Check/change clutch fluid

For me it was totally caused by the old clutch being gone. Do you ever have any flaring?

sargeRX8, not grinding just locked out, sometimes a little grind in low rev shift 1st ->2nd ? hoping thats also an oil issue

galois, ahh whats flaring?

What fluid should i refil with and where can i pick up some of that nulon aditive?

sargeRX8, not grinding just locked out, sometimes a little grind in low rev shift 1st ->2nd ? hoping thats also an oil issue

galois, ahh whats flaring?

What fluid should i refil with and where can i pick up some of that nulon aditive?

Whoops stuck in auto mode lol, slipping! Flaring is what an auto does when it goes to change gears and takes too long to engage the next gear, causing the car to rev because your foot is still on the throttle.

I think I used castrol gtx-m, but can't quite remember. There's a box oils thread in the transmission system. Penrite syn is apparently the best, though it's been a long while since I was looking at that.

Nulon additive and whatever oil you choose will be available at hopefully one of your local autobarn/supercheap/autopro/repco-type stores.

It's also quite easy to do yourself, JUST MAKE SURE you undo the filler plug first because if you undo the dump plug and find you can't undo the filler you're stuffed (this would have happened to me if I hadn't tried to undo the filler first!).

Don't need the filler plug. Is you measure 2.8L of oil going into the box, you can fill from the shifter hole if its an R33 GTST.

Castrol vmx is the stuff I used. If its locked out then it might be something more but as we suggested, change the fluids and see how it goes. First gear gets locked out when you are at moving speed. Maybe the mechanism which locks out first gear is stuck? Change the oils, check the plug at the bottom for metal shit to see how much is on it.

ah right, yeh no slipping mate, once shes in gear shes solid just the locking out issue.

thanks for the advice on the fluids, i will be changing them as soon as i get somewhere to do it ( my current appartment block isnt suitable) hopefully move into another house with garage soon.

dunno if this helps problem solve but she also doesnt like goin from N -> R most times, i know most boxes are stiffer getting it into reverse though so im fairly confident better fluid will solve that issue...

also after reading about ur master cylinder sarge, noticed as i was driving home from work last night, (i could be going crazy) but it feelt like the contact point is varying between nice and low to right up high every now and then,

(noticed this between an easy start at one lights then got locked out at the next, when i got her in n released the clutch she grabbed alot quicker?)

could have something to do with locking out first as its not dissengaging properly when the contact point dropps down low.

pouring through the gearstick seems alot easier then into the actuall box so ill try that way (yeh shes an R33 GTST)

Don't need the filler plug. Is you measure 2.8L of oil going into the box, you can fill from the shifter hole if its an R33 GTST.

Castrol vmx is the stuff I used. If its locked out then it might be something more but as we suggested, change the fluids and see how it goes. First gear gets locked out when you are at moving speed. Maybe the mechanism which locks out first gear is stuck? Change the oils, check the plug at the bottom for metal shit to see how much is on it.

I've seen a lot of different numbers quoted (on here, 2.5L-4.0L haha), so if you're going to go this method make sure the volume you use is from the manual for your specific model. The other thing you can do (which I'd completely forgotten about before) Is pull the temp sensor out and use that hole as it's on the same level as the filler hole.

Either way, you want a plan for if the filler bolt is stuck.

ah right, yeh no slipping mate, once shes in gear shes solid just the locking out issue.

thanks for the advice on the fluids, i will be changing them as soon as i get somewhere to do it ( my current appartment block isnt suitable) hopefully move into another house with garage soon.

dunno if this helps problem solve but she also doesnt like goin from N -> R most times, i know most boxes are stiffer getting it into reverse though so im fairly confident better fluid will solve that issue...

also after reading about ur master cylinder sarge, noticed as i was driving home from work last night, (i could be going crazy) but it feelt like the contact point is varying between nice and low to right up high every now and then,

(noticed this between an easy start at one lights then got locked out at the next, when i got her in n released the clutch she grabbed alot quicker?)

could have something to do with locking out first as its not dissengaging properly when the contact point dropps down low.

pouring through the gearstick seems alot easier then into the actuall box so ill try that way (yeh shes an R33 GTST)

Have you got a stock clutch? Are you sure? HD clutches might not slip when they're running out.

Lol if you pour through the gearstick just be careful of spillage in the cabin!! With a handpump though it's fairly easy to use the filler plug.

Have you got a stock clutch? Are you sure? HD clutches might not slip when they're running out.

Lol if you pour through the gearstick just be careful of spillage in the cabin!! With a handpump though it's fairly easy to use the filler plug.

im certain its a HD clutch, i think the guy i bought it off gave me the proof of perchas/installation slip thing for the clutch, will have a look for it tomorow

well i run through that list,

pivot pin

oil

master/slave cylinder (btw anyone know any way i can test these without swapping for new ones?)

then ill drop the box and start from there with the clutch

just need to find a house with a garage :(

Listen for noise coming out from the master. It shouldn't squeal, squeak or make any noise really. It should be smooth the whole way down and the whole way up. You don't really want to test them by removing them as you will then need to bleed the whole clutch system again. You kind of do want to hit the nail on the head, first time. If you really wanted to you can find someone who has a worm camera(flexible camera with a light at the end, super cheap sell them) and try to get into the box and check out the clutch. Or at least check the inside. If you find a f**kload of clutch material in the bellhousing, you know its worn to the shit house.

You don't need a garage. Any flat surface and the car lifted up will be enough. I done my clutch, my self, in my back yard. First time Ive ever done a clutch. Hard but not impossible. I too was told I had a HD clutch in there. I probably did but it was roasted. Either they done a DIY them self and didn't bother getting the flywheel machined or they didn't bed the piece of shit in as the surfaces were glazed/burnt which indicated alot of slipping. If you've changed the oil and its still locking out, it could be internal box issue. If it was the clutch it self, it would still go in but grind in. You said its completely locked out. If you can get partially into the gear but not all the way in, it could be a syncro or just something normal. But completely locked out... Wouldn't be the clutch. Its a strange problem you got there... Take it to a shop have them sus it out without removing anything just so you can get an idea of whats up. Call some box specialist and ask them what are the causes of first gear being locked out.

^This guy, know's what he's talking about. A bunch of good ideas, and damn impressive changing the clutch first time, by yourself in the backyard. Bet you learnt some new swear words haha (It's probably what I'll do next clutch too lol).

Birds on here is a transmission specialist/rebuilder so I'd politely shoot him a PM and ask about 1st gear lockout.

should i have the engine running while listening for master cylinder noies? or will the hydrolic system work without running the car?

say i do find a worm camera, would going through the grommet to the pivot pin get me a good look at the clutch/ bell housing?

hard to tell if its partially goin in or compleatly locked out, could be a combination of both, only happens sometimes (more increasingly atrm) and from what i can tell locks out if the gear isnt spinning ( from stopped N to 1st,) if i change down from 2nd to 1st while rolling it goes in alright?

wouldnt adjusting my clutch point right up high elimenate the possibility of it being a worn clutch? its got alot of play before it hits the contact point on release, so the clutch is wide open when im trying to shift yeh?

ill search for birds now and see if he can help me, cheers guys

yeah, that would be really useful!

i was planning on doing a transmission oil change soon too, not sure if it'll help...

Hey man,

Sounds like you have the same issue as i do... Mine gets better once i have been driving the car for 30+mins...

I changed the gearbox oil and added a smooth gear changing product however there was no difference :rant:

if you find a way to fix yours...PLEASE LET ME KNOW!!!!!! :woot:

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