Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Theres been a fair bit of discussion about the O2 sensor for the C34 Stageas but I havent been able to find too much regarding the M35.

Are there options (in terms of a generic replacement, modifying the plug from another common car, or using the one from a 350z, Maxima, or something else) for us or do we have to source an OEM part from Nissan/IM (I believe the part # 22690−AL600) ?

Cheers,

Duncan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321100-lambda-o2-sensor-for-the-m35/
Share on other sites

Hi Dunc,

Assuming you have the VQ25DET engine the part number i was quoted by Nissan was 22690-AQ800.

Just ordered one from Highway Nissan, Springwood, QLD. Cost $157.90 inc GST.

These guys at Highway Nissan are pretty helpful with imports, recommend you give them a try if you're having trouble.

Hope that helps mate.

Hey Jason,

Was that for the front O2 sensor or the back one? Main North Nissan in Adelaide quoted me prices on each one seperately, front was $211.65, rear $225.43..

Ive ordered the part number I quoted through a friend for ~$160.. I got the part number from this thread (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?s=&showtopic=305709&view=findpost&p=5059745 )

Fingers crossed it is the right one :P

Cheers,

Duncan

There should only be one O2 senssor on the M35's.

I did query that with Nissan also but they confirmed there was only one listed for the VQ25DET.

I could be wrong but i think the 350Z has two. The original part number you quoted appears to be from the Touring Edition of the 350Z and also the M35 Stageas with the VQ30DD/XQ35DE engines.

Perhaps the part is interchangeable and if i could get my copy of FAST going i could confirm 100% for you, fingers crossed!

Can anyone else confirm this?

Cheers,

Jas

Edited - Early morning spelling issues!

Edited by HER_M35
There's a rear one? I don't think so.

Id only heard about one but I figured I was just mistaken :(

There should only be one O2 senssor on the M35's.

I did query that with Nissan also but they confirmed there was only one listed for the VQ25DET.

I could be wrong but i think the 350Z has two. The original part number you quoted appears to be from the Touring Edition of the 350Z and also the M35 Stageas with the VQ30DD/XQ35DE engines.

Perhaps the part is interchangeable and if i could get my copy of FAST going i could confirm 100% for you, fingers crossed!

Can anyone else confirm this?

Cheers,

Jas

Edited - Early morning spelling issues!

I might shoot euroequip or iamhe77 a PM to get their attention & find out if either of them have fitted that part :) If someone could FAST it that'd be tops also :D

There should only be one O2 senssor on the M35's.

I did query that with Nissan also but they confirmed there was only one listed for the VQ25DET.

I could be wrong but i think the 350Z has two. The original part number you quoted appears to be from the Touring Edition of the 350Z and also the M35 Stageas with the VQ30DD/XQ35DE engines.

Perhaps the part is interchangeable and if i could get my copy of FAST going i could confirm 100% for you, fingers crossed!

Can anyone else confirm this?

Cheers,

Jas

Edited - Early morning spelling issues!

arghhhh it's my TWIN!

+1.... maybe they were confused by the grounding point on the exhaust? :(

Hope you got it all sorted Dunc (sometimes Nissan dealerships need to be TOLD about the car)

Found the one and only O2 sensor, it hides pretty good :P Initial attempts to remove it by disconnecting the dump pipe failed miserably due to not being able to get the dump pipe off the turbo from below - not enough wiggle room for tools - or the tools on hand. Didnt have an O2 sensor socket. That was last night. Round 2, tonight, saw the use of an O2 sensor socket and the operation went quite smoothly :P

I used the part I mentioned earlier, went in fine, plug was all good & its not throwing any error codes. Chalking that one up as a win.

  • 1 year later...

*Should* throw a check engine light if it does fail.

That would be if it the ECU doesn't read Volts from the sensor all together. They can, I been told, become slower at reading, leading to some strange driving.

Lucky buggers you bunch are. You have one- I got 4.

I wouldn't bother changing if it isn't broke. A couple of hundred bucks of fuel is a lot for a O2 sensor to make up in efficiency!

There was some discussion on those in the Forced Induction thread a while ago.

I've got one of these to go in: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/MTXL.php

I think Scotty is using the older versions.

Aaron had the AEM one in his and it seemed good, but I didn't like that it couldn't be calibrated. That, and the Innovate one was reasonably priced.

Leon's running a different one again...

See if you can find the thread in the Forced Induction section, covering heaps of different widebands.

It seems there used to be quite a few innovative failures but now they seem better. Now the AEM ones seem to be failing.

Try the PLX, as long as it has a narrowband output you can plug it into the stock o2 position, although most instructions say to have the sensor 20 inches away. You have to make sure they point down which makes it hard to install so far down the exhaust.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @joshuaho96 Hmm considering the drama you've seen/experienced, have you looked into getting a built complete long motor shipped from Australia?  Considering the AUD is basically monopoly money when compared to the USD, at a glance this seems like a good option?
    • Bloody Skylines, they put you through the bloody wringer! Stick at it! Stunning drag strip BTW! Where is it? Can see part of the name on the slip and probably should just Google it!
    • I mean the other day I had to walk someone through diagnosing why their timing belt was walking off the cam gears. At least one of the issues was a bent tensioner stud. Local mechanics have found runout on the CAS mechanism causing weird failures. I'm also no saint here I've documented some of the things I've had to learn the hard way. Something I discovered recently is that my CA emissions catalytic converters weren't even welded correctly to align the downpipe to the main cat and they tossed the support bracket that goes from the transfer case to the downpipe to support everything there. I spend a lot of time chasing down these decidedly unsexy problems and the net effect is it feels like I never actually get to the original objective (flex fuel, VCAM, oil control, cooling, etc).
    • At times with how you make everything sound, all I imagine Americans doing when they see a gtr is standing there looking at it and bashing it with a gun like how a caveman would with a club and hoping it fixes itself 
    • I think this is just a product of how the US market works for this stuff. Shops are expensive and there's no real way of knowing what kind of results you're going to get, people don't really have the institutional knowledge. I have heard too much at this point to really put faith in anybody "full service" except maybe DSport and they aren't really a full service kind of shop. If you go to the right place I have no doubt they'll get it right for you. Some locals have set it up right but the cost really is nuts and even now they're still fighting issues. And you know I'm a crazy person who thinks things like twin scroll, relatively short low-mount cast headers, PCV recirc to intake, recirculating BOV, right-sized for ~400 whp, MAF load, validating all of that to a standard comparable to OEM test programs, etc are relevant. For what it's worth, multiple local owners at this point have been stuck in a perpetual cycle of blowing a motor -> getting someone to rebuild it -> some missed detail causes the bearings to wipe and spin just outside of break-in mileage or drop valves or some other catastrophe -> cycle repeats. I usually only find out about this because I'm perpetually helping random friends with diagnosing car troubles, Skyline or otherwise. The single turbo stuff if I'm honest is mostly secondary, it just doesn't seem to achieve the numbers in the ~2000-3000 rpm region that I would expect given the results I've seen here or in Motive's videos. I don't really know what we're missing here in the US to be causing this. Lots of people like to emphasize the necessity of finishing the project first and foremost, but I'm not made of money and I can't afford to be trashing a 15k+ USD engine build with any regularity. Or spending my relatively limited garage time these days unable to triangulate problems because too much was changed all at once. Also, even if it isn't a catastrophic failure I would consider spending the cost of single turbo conversion with nothing to show for it to be pretty bad. 
×
×
  • Create New...