R32 Gtr Alternator Replacement

[GTRPowa]

Sup,

I've been searching Google and read alot of threads on here but I can't really find 2 people agreeing on any one claim, so I'm stumped. Like others, my alternator started dying in heat, now it's totally dead. I've read threads which mention:

* Rebuilding it

* Replacing it with R33 items

* Replacing it with a HR31 item (Which I can purchase brand new)

* Calais forum talking about them police alternators, which someone at the ends claim they don't fit.

Have I missed any alternatives? The best choice for me would be to simply buy the HR31 alternator, and if need be, adjust the size of the +12 lug and field wiring plugs. I have an Auto Electrical background, I just don't know what physically fits what cause I've only had the one Skyline and none of my friends own them.

Can someone with actual practical experience give me some hard advice on what I should do? Most of the posts I see is 'should/could' - Has someone actually bought a new HR31 (RB30) alternator from Bosch, fitted it to their R32 GTR, and had it working?

Any good advice appreciated, thanks in advance, hope to be on the streets again soon. I didn't want to make yet another alternator thread, but the others don't seem to have a definitive answer.

[DAS KAMU]

buy a proper one from nissan

they are pretty reasonable

i get all my gear off them

[stimps]

get one from nissan? are you insane? are you actually a share holder? LOL

brand new alternator from nissan for a R32 is 880 dollars LOL

If you want a new one, get one from Ashdown and Ingram, automotive electrical suppliers, they have a aftermarket alternative 120amp, for 365 dollars.

I have an R32 and mine was acting wierd, i took it apart, found a blown feedbank diode, (theres 3) causing my output to pulse) So now it works, but the output voltage is still a bit low. So I found a spare one on the forums and im yet to try it. at the moment the car still goes, but the alt light is always on, ever so slightly.

You can NOT get replacement regulators for the original unit.

If you have a RB30 unit or one from a r33 it will fit , but the wiring might not fit. If you can work out which wire is which and connect them approriately you might get it right. Sometimes its just a matter of making the large wire fit, changing the lug etc.

I had a R33 alternator in a VL commodore for years, worked fine. but the alt warning light no longer worked. No big deal.

[GTRPowa]

Thanks for the reply Stimps.

Yeah mine has always had a lower voltage that it should when running (before it started dying). My turbo timer has the voltage and warning buzzers while driving etc so the alternator light doesn't bother me.

Well assuming you're correct with the fitment of an RB30 alternator to an RB26, my 2 choices would be a new Bosch one for an RB30, or the 120amp alternative you specified. Both are around equally priced, however I cant remember the output of the Bosch unit. I think they have some above OEM spec versions too. I'll look into that, thanks.

Edit: Have you used these aftermarket 120 amp alternators?

Edited May 18, 2010 by GTRPowa

[jiffo]

I had an Rb30 alternator on my Rb20.

Belt lines up OK, only need to sort the wiring.

[Nigel Nichols]

Hey guys.

Skyline alternators is something I have a lot to do with because I rebuld/refurbish them as a hobby from home.

I am only interested in rebuilding the Hitachi units. Here is some examples of my rebuilds.

http://www4.wave.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/Alt.htm

A bit of info on alternators.

All Jap R31, R32 and R33 Skylines use the Hitachi or Mitsi built alternators.They are all internal cooling fan type. R31 Aussie/NZ market use a Hitachi outside fan type or Bosch Internal fan type.

Physical fittment to the engine block they are all interchangable. Adjuster bracket, belt alignment are all matched. Wiring wise the outside fan Hitachi from Aussie R31's are different. All the others including the Bosch is the same. Some R33 Skylines use a 8mm BAT terminal, the rest have 6mm BAT terminal. Easy to sort.

The earth terminal (5mm) and the main two pin ignition/dash light plug are all the same except for (again) the Hitachi outside fan unit found on the Aussie R31's.

Some have a smaller belt pulley (69mm versus 73mm on other units). If your engine is to do a lot or high rpm work then the larger alt pulley is better as it will help avoid over reving the alternator when its not necessary.

If the alternator has a Hitachi number starting with LR170 it is a 70amp unit. LR180 are 80amp and LR190 are 90amp. The Bosch units found on Aussie R31's RB30's are 110amp.

No alternator should be running at its max amp output during normal operation. If it is it's not spec'd right for the job and will give up the ghost sooner than it should. No alt should be operating at more than 50% its max output rating. If you are going to have lots of high power drawing items running, air con, high wattage headlights, spots, or big sound systems then you are better to go for the 90amp plus units.

I have found that internal parts ARE available for "some" of the units. Don't even consider buying the parts from a sparky or Nissan. I recently priced a Voltage Regulator for a Hitachi built alternator for a RB20DET R32 Skyline. $153 from sparky and ....wait for it..... $675 from Nissan ex Japan. I can't buy parts wholesale as I'm not a register sparky.

However Ebay USA comes to the rescue. Brand new regulator.... $35 US. I recently ordered one and a rectifier and a slip ring to complete two other alts. Buy the number of item the seller has sold (over 18000) and the positive feedback from these sales they are quality parts. He is a surplus parts dealer.

Nigel

[ali-turko]

hey nigel

can you please post up a list of parts need to complete a full rebuild including part numbers??

thx mate

[stimps]

ok, i did a search on USA ebay and couldnt find that guy. Do you have any more info on how i can get myself a new regulator for a alternator from a RB20DET? Mine is low on output. (only 13.7) and the altnator light is on.

Hey guys.

Skyline alternators is something I have a lot to do with because I rebuld/refurbish them as a hobby from home.

I am only interested in rebuilding the Hitachi units. Here is some examples of my rebuilds.

http://www4.wave.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/Alt.htm

A bit of info on alternators.

All Jap R31, R32 and R33 Skylines use the Hitachi or Mitsi built alternators.They are all internal cooling fan type. R31 Aussie/NZ market use a Hitachi outside fan type or Bosch Internal fan type.

Physical fittment to the engine block they are all interchangable. Adjuster bracket, belt alignment are all matched. Wiring wise the outside fan Hitachi from Aussie R31's are different. All the others including the Bosch is the same. Some R33 Skylines use a 8mm BAT terminal, the rest have 6mm BAT terminal. Easy to sort.

The earth terminal (5mm) and the main two pin ignition/dash light plug are all the same except for (again) the Hitachi outside fan unit found on the Aussie R31's.

Some have a smaller belt pulley (69mm versus 73mm on other units). If your engine is to do a lot or high rpm work then the larger alt pulley is better as it will help avoid over reving the alternator when its not necessary.

If the alternator has a Hitachi number starting with LR170 it is a 70amp unit. LR180 are 80amp and LR190 are 90amp. The Bosch units found on Aussie R31's RB30's are 110amp.

No alternator should be running at its max amp output during normal operation. If it is it's not spec'd right for the job and will give up the ghost sooner than it should. No alt should be operating at more than 50% its max output rating. If you are going to have lots of high power drawing items running, air con, high wattage headlights, spots, or big sound systems then you are better to go for the 90amp plus units.

I have found that internal parts ARE available for "some" of the units. Don't even consider buying the parts from a sparky or Nissan. I recently priced a Voltage Regulator for a Hitachi built alternator for a RB20DET R32 Skyline. $153 from sparky and ....wait for it..... $675 from Nissan ex Japan. I can't buy parts wholesale as I'm not a register sparky.

However Ebay USA comes to the rescue. Brand new regulator.... $35 US. I recently ordered one and a rectifier and a slip ring to complete two other alts. Buy the number of item the seller has sold (over 18000) and the positive feedback from these sales they are quality parts. He is a surplus parts dealer.

Nigel

[Nigel Nichols]

Here is a spreadsheet of the parts I know of

http://www4.wave.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/A...Alternators.xls

There is a "main" sheet for bearings, brush etc and then separate shets for each type Alt I rebuild

stimps

Here is triodiodes Ebay Store

http://stores.ebay.com/triodiodedcelectricandtractor

What part number alternator do you have?

Nigel

[Rekin]

my 1993 Series 2 R32 GTST has;

Hitachi 80amp alternator

Purchased a R33 GTST Alternator;

90amp alternator

The R33 Alternator is a direct bolt-on for a r32 gtst. (physically the same)

Only difference is the battery bolt connector.

[Nigel Nichols]

my 1993 Series 2 R32 GTST has;

Hitachi 80amp alternator

Purchased a R33 GTST Alternator;

90amp alternator

The R33 Alternator is a direct bolt-on for a r32 gtst. (physically the same)

Only difference is the battery bolt connector.

I would expect your 80amp R32 GTST was a Hitach number LR180-731B or LR180-705B, both with 6mm BAT post and 74mm pulley.

Your 90amp R33 replacement by the sound would be the Hitachi LR190-722. 8mm BAT post with extended and 69mm pulley.

However there is a number of 90amp Mitsi alternators factory fitted to the R33 GTST's

(just quoting numbers so others know what they can use).

Nigel

[Nigel Nichols]

just updated the alternator info pages of my web site

http://www4.wave.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/Alt.htm

Nigel

[Rekin]

I would expect your 80amp R32 GTST was a Hitach number LR180-731B or LR180-705B, both with 6mm BAT post and 74mm pulley.

Your 90amp R33 replacement by the sound would be the Hitachi LR190-722. 8mm BAT post with extended and 69mm pulley.

However there is a number of 90amp Mitsi alternators factory fitted to the R33 GTST's

(just quoting numbers so others know what they can use).

Nigel

Looking at my r32 alternator;

It is: Hitachi LR180-73IC 12V80A

Didnt write down the numbers of the r33 alternator when it was put in, so cant confirm

Good work on the website, I reckon put a copy of it on skylinesaustralia as ive seen plenty of good skylines disappear from the internet and archive.org can only capture so much

[GTRPowa]

Very Nice Nigel,

Thank you, I think you've answered everything, and plenty more, for everyone else.

Those types of answers needs to go in a sticky. Seen the same question asked by others before but this is a definitive answer!

[IOWNU]

My R32 GTR had a VL alternator fitted.

You need to do some minor fiddling with the wiring but it works perfectly.

[GTRPowa]

If you want a new one, get one from Ashdown and Ingram, automotive electrical suppliers, they have a aftermarket alternative 120amp, for 365 dollars.

Excuse bump, I spoke with them today, they don't have listings for R32's.

The listings for HR31's are 70 and 80 amps.

The listings for the VL (although the same) are 70 amp only.

He also couldn't find the RB26 in any listings.

Do you possibly have a part number? Or know the way to find this 120 amp alternator? He basically said without the number for it it'd be a needle in a haystack.

[noone]

+2 for the part number request

have noticed my lights dimming on idle a little idles at about 850 rpm (might be alternator slowly dieing)

planning an beefed up fuel system so some more juice (electrically as well ) would be a good thing I reckon

[Dohmar]

+2 for the part number request

have noticed my lights dimming on idle a little idles at about 850 rpm (might be alternator slowly dieing)

planning an beefed up fuel system so some more juice (electrically as well ) would be a good thing I reckon

+3 for this request

I currently have the 90amp GTR alternator (which was rebuilt by a bunch of incompetent monkeys when it failed 3 years ago)

When I run aircon and I stop at the lights, the voltage goes down to 12v and the hicas starts tripping out whenever it dips below 13v... most times im running 13.5v when the aircon is on, constant 14v when its off with a dip to 13.5 at idle when ac not engaged.

spoke to the auto leccy today, he reckons its a case of not being enough amperage going thru (and i have added a sub, amp, etc) so its probably not a bad idea.

i do have a question for you all tho - is it normal for air conditioners to draw that much load? I thought the alt was supposed to maintain constant 14v even at idle, so im not sure why me revving the engine would cause the volts to rise - which leads me to suspect the alt

any advice is appreciated very much

-D

[R.3.2.G.T.R]

anyone found a replacement or can recommend an auto elec in western syd that can re-build them properly?

[t_revz]

anyone found a replacement or can recommend an auto elec in western syd that can re-build them properly?

any auto sparky shop can do them, they arent rocket science.

im thinking about starting an exchange service for skyline alternators and starters soon if i get this new job and have more time off