Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone.

I ordered the Works Bell column shifter kit last week and thought I would post up my thoughts and the install procedure.

I was going to wait for my brother to give me a hand, but after looking at the kit and instructions, it looked really simple.

First step was to remove the center console and find a white plug that controls all the shifting. All you do is plug in the supplied plug:

IMG_0374.jpg

From there, I run the cables to the under side of the steering wheel. I removed the cover under the wheel:

IMG_0378.jpg

There are some small ribs that need to be removed so that the 'back plait' fits correctly.

IMG_0379.jpg

I used the V35 template that is included and drill the 6.0mm holes:

IMG_0380.jpg

Once that's all done, I bolt on the paddles, hook up the wires (You also have to run power to the kit - I just ran off the cigarette lighter and ground the black wire to the chassis) then its just a matter of putting it all back together.

IMG_0384.jpg

IMG_0385.jpg

The kit is nice quality and feels solid - the raw carbon looks sexy too.

The paddles are fully adjustable. You can change the angle, height and amount the paddles protrude. I set mine up as high as possible, but with enough space so my high-beam and window squirter thingo still work.

First thing I noticed was how much damn petrol I am using.... could have something to do with keeping it in 2nd all the time and enjoying the corners a little too much.... :P

Shifting feels good - only a small movement - feels similar to a M3/Golf GTI.... without the nice quick shift and down blip.

I paid $422.00 shipped to my front door. Expensive... but if I had the choice again, I would get it again in a heartbeat. I have always driven manual cars and changing to auto in the Stagea was one of my biggest concerns.. but this makes me much happier. :ninja:

I will post up some clearer non-iPhone pics tomorrow.

Chris.

Edited by spoolin12
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321164-m35-works-bell-paddle-shift/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

excellent......great work......damn it if I hadn't spent so much money today(post coming tomorrow if it works) I would be ordering it.

:ninja:

this one's moving up the list.

P.S. Watch keeping it in manual gears to long....the trans will overheat.

Hi Chris,

Many thanks for taking the time to post your photos and text !

It's always great to see people taking the time to share their experience of installing our products on their cars.

It helps others see what is involved in install and could also be very useful for other people to refer to when installing the Works Bell paddle shifter system on their own cars.

took it for a drive today and it feels sweet! super solid and sexy raw carbon finish!

Great work and glad to hear you are so happy with the Works Bell paddle shifter system !

- The Tuners Group

Edited by TheTunersGroup
very VERY nice kit!!

im assuming the paddles dont move with the wheel as they look attached to the column surround. am i correct??

Yep, it mounts directly to the column. They do offer another kit that moves with the wheel, but you have to change to a non-airbag wheel.

I have attached a couple of better shots below:

_BI_8701.jpg

_BI_8708.jpg

Chris.

Looks great.... Let us know how you go with gearbox temps.

I know when I use my car in manual mode the gearbox gets a bit too warm (and that is with an additional Trans cooler) and starts to not select 2nd when I shift down. Also tends to not engage 2nd until on the throttle.

Have you reversed the gear box selection direction?

Cheers

Andy

would these work on a S2 instead of the buttons on the wheels?

If they are for the V35 Skyline I highly doubt compatibility.

That is not to say you can't get a kit that would work with the S2, just not this particular one.

Great job btw!

Just a few questions though..i have a r34 with button shift on the steering wheel;

Will this kit fit first of all & will it improve the lag between going through the gears i currently experience?

Thanks

no to which question? it wont fit or it wont fix the lag?

that would be no to both your questions......but I am sure the Tuners Group would have another available alternative.

http://www.tunersgroup.com/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Right, its been a while for updating this car, but I made some small but important progress today. In the end I bought an Ecutek dongle from the Australian distributor Tunehouse (for local hardware support) but have gone with a remote tune from Racebox in the US (because they have done millions of these, and I could not find any tuner where I could access the tune anyway as they are all password locked). The App is reasonably easy to work with, but the PC software reminds me of Haltech's ECU Manager that you need to use with the Plat Pro ECUs, it is a nightmare.  Anyway, I sent the details over, got back a tune file and a request for data logs. I finally got a chance to access a private test track today as they want redline logs in 3rd and 4th, and have sent them back for the first round of reviews. The main difference in the tune is going from 1.0 (stock) to 1.3 bar (19psi), although I'm sure is a lot of other stuff in the background. Keeping in mind this is a dead stock car with 125,000klm, this is what the App's performance test claimed: Before After Interesting to note that both 400m tests had the same terminal speed (158klm/h) but different ETs. And no, the speed limiter seems to be higher than that at 186kl/h. Summary of the key logged parameters for the 3rd and 4th gear runs were: Those little turbos were certainly whizzing at 200,000rpm+.  Also I'm really not that excited about oil pressure 55psi at redline so I think I'll go thicker than 5w30 (nissan recommend 0w20....) and see if that improves it. Other than that (and the big boost spike....) everything looks good as a start to me.
    • Just one more post to show the final result and the original "janky" solution for a laugh. Everything feels really tight and no wobbling at all, very pleased 🙂
    • After drying a few days, time to put her back together 
    • The hot exhaust light will come on not from just the cat being blocked, but it's just a temp sensor, and it's designed to warn you to not do things like park in long grass.   If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on.   Second if the cat is rattling, I'd suspect it's not blocked, but instead falling apart inside.   The easiest "fix" until you can get a cat put back in, is to unbolt your one, bash the rest of the insides out, and then bolt it back in.   For a daily driver/street car, I am in agreeance of put a cat in the car. If it were race car I wouldn't care if it were removed.
×
×
  • Create New...