Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking at 225/40's on the front and 235/40's on the rear! Was

thinkin +25 cos wasnt sure how much camber i will need run gunna roll the gaurds though! Gettin +20 on the rear! Would the front tuck in u reckon?

Go the +20 all round.

9.5s are not too wide for the car.

What size tyres are you looking to run on it?

Sorry, if its a GTSt with std guards, even if the insides are rolled then its my experience that sized rim will not have a hope in hell of fitting on an R32 GTSt

At best you will get a 9" +28 or so on the front and a 9.5" + 36 or so on the rear. Even that will fill out the guiards and probably rub depending on ride height and tyres used.

A far better bet for a decent stance is 8.5" +30 fronts and 9" +30 rear. For the size tyre you want to run then they will fit that sized rubber better too.

I have very heavily pumped guards on my car and here is a pic of it with 350/340mm ride height and R34 GTR rims which a 9" + 30 all round They clear nicely with no rubbing. But you are talkign rims that are about 12mm wider and with a further 10mm offset. No way i can see them fitting with std guards!

19871_340712444740_606454740_4925665_2915896_n.jpg

19871_340709514740_606454740_4925653_7614877_n.jpg

One of my mates got a 32 gtst aswell hes got 17x9+17 all round with in gaurds taken out and gaurds rolled! So im thinking more along the lines of 18x8.5+17 on the front! And 18x9.5+20 on the rear! Would that work! With 225/40's on the front and 235/40's on the rear!

  • 3 months later...
Sorry, if its a GTSt with std guards, even if the insides are rolled then its my experience that sized rim will not have a hope in hell of fitting on an R32 GTSt

At best you will get a 9" +28 or so on the front and a 9.5" + 36 or so on the rear. Even that will fill out the guiards and probably rub depending on ride height and tyres used.

A far better bet for a decent stance is 8.5" +30 fronts and 9" +30 rear. For the size tyre you want to run then they will fit that sized rubber better too.

I have very heavily pumped guards on my car and here is a pic of it with 350/340mm ride height and R34 GTR rims which a 9" + 30 all round They clear nicely with no rubbing. But you are talkign rims that are about 12mm wider and with a further 10mm offset. No way i can see them fitting with std guards!

19871_340712444740_606454740_4925665_2915896_n.jpg

19871_340709514740_606454740_4925653_7614877_n.jpg

Hey roy,

what size tyres are u running there?

cheers mick

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just checking, when we are talking about high temp fluid, are we all referring to DOT 5.1? I haven't had any issues with changing it every 2-3 years. 
    • Yeah that is still true AFAIK.....good brake fluid should be changed annually because it absorbs water faster which is more often than most mechanics would do it. There are cheap tools that check water% in brake fluid if you all scientific about it. I for sure would (do) run good brake fluid in anything that even casually saw the track like Murray said; avoiding the risk of "exciting" fade is worth it
    • Well, back in the day..... "race" fluids, which were essentially only really "high temp" fluids, used to absorb water more readily. So they really needed to be changed more often anyway. The coincidence of that being directly necessary along with it being what racers would do as a matter of course was just fine.
    • Does the high temp fluid degrade any different over time compared to normal one? That's one thing I've always been wondering. Because a track car is going to get the fluid flushed probably way more often than every two years and will see less kilometers driven. I would think the requirements are different. I'm running Motul RBF 600 in mine. Was recommended by my mechanic before a trackday and I've stuck with it since. Hasn't seen the track since but I've kept buying and using it for servicing anyway.
    • The brakes are all stock bar some DBA slotted discs and the EBC pads and braided lines. The car has brake ducts as standard but they're kinda pointed in the general direction of the brakes rather than really getting at the heat source. I guess I should hit it with an infra red thermometer after a session and see what they're at.  100%! Its just a curiosity more than anything. As I said, high temp brake fluid was such a track day rage back in the day. From people I speak to at the track and threads on here everybody has their own take on it but I'm not gonna scoff at spending a few more bucks.    OH, a quick side question - would you use brake fluid from an opened container even if the lid has been on? Eg, if you have a bottle that you opened last time you flushed, it's been tightly closed, is it still good? 
×
×
  • Create New...