Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys got heaps of stuff to clear

need to get rid of everything send me your offers

can ship most things aus wide at buyers expense

all items located in castle hill

contact: tilla txt 0402362885

genuine greddy limited edition type-RZ bov 2months old -$220

sr20 top mount manifold made by liverpool exhausts no leakes - $400

stock r33 bov 120 xxx ks - $50

r33 s1 bonnet suit respray - $80

r33 s1 right hand side fender blue in color excellent condition - $220

r33 s1 bonnet perfect condition blue in color with hinges - $350

r33 s1 bonnet latch with t bar

$30

r33 s1 reo uncut $140

stock r33 exhaust + cat (good for clearing defects) $80

jvc avx800 dvd head unit bought 2 years ago for 1700 been siting in project car ever since watched

2 dvds max! comes with the ipod adapter bought that for 200

all together selling it for -- $750

http://www.ryda.com.au/JVC-KW-AVX800-In-Dash-DVD-Monitor-p/kwavx800.htm

pioneer gm-7300 800w mono block rrp $330 used for 8 months in mums car barley used

--- $200

http://www.pioneer.com.au/Products/Archive/Car%20Entertainment/Amplifiers.aspx

heaps more parts to come!!

Edited by schnorky
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321247-garage-clean-out-open-to-offers/
Share on other sites

UPDATE!!

can ship most things aus wide at buyers expense

all items located in castle hill

contact: tilla txt 0402362885

genuine greddy limited edition type-RZ bov 2months old -$200

sr20 top mount manifold made by liverpool exhausts no leakes - $200

stock r33 bov 120 xxx ks - $40

r33 s1 bonnet suit respray - $50

r33 s1 right hand side fender blue in color excellent condition - $200

r33 s1 bonnet perfect condition blue in color with hinges - $300

r33 s1 bonnet latch with t bar

$15

R33 s1 reo uncut $100

stock r33 exhaust + cat (good for clearing defects) $60 AND a pack of winnie gold :rofl:

jvc avx800 dvd head unit bought 2 years ago for 1700 been siting in project car ever since watched

2 dvds max! comes with the ipod adapter bought that for 200 SOLD!!!

all together selling it for -- $750

http://www.ryda.com.au/JVC-KW-AVX800-In-Dash-DVD-Monitor-p/kwavx800.htm

pioneer gm-7300 800w mono block rrp $330 used for 8 months in mums car barley used

--- $180

http://www.pioneer.com.au/Products/Archive/Car%20Entertainment/Amplifiers.aspx

heaps more parts to come!!

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...