R33 Gts-t Shutting Off Completely During Drive

[theforce]

Hi guys, I've got a 94 r33 gts-t automatic and its really annoying the hell out of me. It starts/idles fine but randomly shuts off all six cylinders at once. I've changed the afm to another one and that made it a bit better. I've changed the fuel pump to a gtr pump but made no difference. I've changed the plugs (0.8), fuel filter, ignitor, taped the coil packs but it still turns off.

Sometimes it drives brilliant, revs all the way. But other times even during driving it turns off completely.

I'm running out of ideas and areas to inspect. Is it related to alarm/immobiliser stuffing up? SMIC hose (I've checked those)? fuel related? oxy sensor (I unplugged the oxy sensor and so far car hasn't turned off)?

Car is stock by the way, only got cat-back.

[lachlanw]

sounds alarm related

does the dash still work when the engine shuts down? or it does too

what capabilities does your alarm have /what does it turn odd/immobolise

does engine die very abruptly (eg no spark) or takes a couple of seconds to die(fuel pump turning off)

have you checked the ecu error codes ? it there is none itll be alarm

[theforce]

Hi, the engine dies within a second without warning but the dash works work fine when its off. It will again turn on but sometimes hesitates. It is an AutoWatch Alarm, not sure of its capabilities but will look up the model tonight. But yeah, the engine shuts off all cyclinders at once, no fuel or spark happening. I've connected the car to a laptop using the consult cable but got no error messages.

Also worth mentioning is that when I unlock the car using the remote, if I take more than 20s to turn the key, it won't crank meaning I have to press the unlock key again and turn the ignition. Same if I'm waiting in the car and try to turn the key, the dash lights will light up and then die unless I press the unlock button on the remote.

Edited May 19, 2010 by theforce

[KrazyKong]

Hmm, I had something similar a year ago when I first bought my car. It wasn't anything alarm related, but rather the throttle body needed cleaning. The car would cut out when coasting to a stop, or when stopped with no foot on the accelerator. Once the throttle body was cleaned, the stalling problem went away. When I did have the problem, I was able to restart the car always, but it was annoying and a bit worrying at the time as I didn't know why it was doing it.

I've seen the 20s thing on other cars before. It's just an added security measure to thwart someone when they are trying to steal your car.

If your dash is still lit up when the car cuts out, then it sounds like it's not a power issue but rather, the ignition could be cutting out with some loose wiring from the alarm. Maybe worth paying someone to go over the alarm wiring. Otherwise all I can recommend is to clean the throttle body.

[PUDZ 32R]

my brother had this problem in his '33 and it turned out to be the wiring from the AFM to the computer had cracked so when he changed the AFM and it didnt fix anything he thought it was not AFM related but it turned out to be exactly what was wrong. if you want to test this you will need wire to run from your AFM direct to the ECU and an ECU wiring diagram to work out which pins to connect it to. might help you might not. keep us informed if you figure out what was wrong not enough people do it and it helps if you read an old thread and can find out a fix rather than having to ask the same questions again.

[theforce]

Thanks for your reply guys. I was told that the throttle body could be causing this but I didn't pay much attention as I never heard of a skyline with a throttle body issue. I was planning to remove all the hoses in the engine bay and inspect tomoro but will definitely clean the throttle body now that you've mentioned it. Also the wiring to AFM is another great idea. Also worth mentioning is that a month ago when I checked the ecu it had a harness and connector wired into it which turned to be a Apexi SAC. I removed that and resoldered the wiring as well as the AFM soldering inside the AFM. Then using consult, the software showed that AFM had 0 voltage so I replaced the afm and the error went away. But I still suspect the afm wiring could be related and so will run some wires directly from the afm to the ecu.

Been reading other thread with similar problems and people have suggested cleaning the AAC valve, re-setting the ecu to fix idle issues so that maybe worth a try aswell.

Also just before when in the middle of driving, the car feels like its turned off but the dash lights are not on and pressing the throttle pedal does nothing and a few seconds later it turns off. When turned back on, there is a foul smell of fuel as if it wasn't burnt.

Will try the above suggestions tomoro as I ripping the car apart to bits until I find this problem as car is really unsafe to drive.

Will let you guys know how it goes.

[theforce]

Alright guys, I went through all the hoses and re-tightened them, cleaned the throttle body and it all made no difference. Someone suggested that it may be the CAS - Crank Angle Sensor as the car turns off randomly at idle, while driving and in the middle of round abouts and uphills. So I replaced the CAS and let the car idle for a few minutes. After car got a little bit warmed up it just turned off like before!!!

So I've disconnected the battery cable for overnight and see if that re-sets the ecu???

How long does the battery needs to be disconnected for the ecu to properly reset it self? and must I do this if replacing the CAS?

[theforce]

I've also reset the ecu by bridging the two lower left pins on the consult connector near the drivers foot (as disconnecting the battery cable didn't work for me), which was flashing 11 - meaning CAS error. So I reset that aswell and will see tomoro how it goes.

[stimps]

my car had this, turned out it was some dodgy wiring in the AFM wiring, twisted wires, no soldering. you have to check your AFM wiring for any breaks or shorts.