Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi hows it going,

I currently have a Nissan Skyline r33 Series 2 gts-t, its got a few issues with it currently, it currently has a Front Mount Inter cooler, used to have a HKS Blow Off Valve but replaced it with the stock one. It has a 3" Full Exhaust, as well it has a Automatic boost controller however its got the display sort of smashed, so going to replace it soon with a manual one it as well has a turbo timer.

One of the issues is that its blowing black smoke and there and its leaking the black stuff from the exhaust onto the floor, also there is sense of a strong smell of petrol. My assumption its running quite rich, so im guessing could it be due for a tune, or it might be running too much boost but ive reved it ideling and it has been showing the 7 pound of boost. The car is currently unregestired however its never been driven, so dont if reving the car shows its real boost.

My 2nd question is, the oil is pretty much black, so would that mean its time for a oil change and oil filter change.

My 3rd question, is when sometimes its ideling it turns it self off so i was wondering could this be miss fires, or is it just due for a tune. Because im thinking maybe i need to replace the spark plugs. Also when its been slightly reved on a warm engine, sometimes it will shut off and wont turn back on until you give it about 5mins and it will start right back up. If i start it up straight after it will struggle to start up sort of like an old car.

If you could help me, it will be greatly appreciated.

Yours Truly,

Moz09

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321318-r33-skyline-problem/
Share on other sites

Get the O2 sensor checked, most common cause of running rich.

Oil shouldn't be black, so definitely change that. I would personally change it anyway as you don't know what the previous owner had been using.

When you returned the bov to stock, did you plumb it back properly or is it venting to atmosphere? If it is venting to the atmosphere then that could also be the cause of the car running rich

sounds like you have a mild vacuum leak sumwhere, check all vacuum lines, intercooler pipes etc

if that fails, check your air flow meter (borrow sum1 elses and fit it to see if it still runs the same)

if that fails, post here again and ill keep thinking, theres lots of things i can list but some more obvious/easy things to elimate first before the not-so easy stuff has to be checked, like injectors etc

Sounds like a combination of running rich and a vacuum leak as snozzle said (I'd be trusting his opinion on this, he's a champ :devil: ) I'm wondering, when your car "dies/turns itself off" does it hunt for a bit before it does? By that, I mean do the revs at idle just start going out of whack and then stall? If so then I'd definitely say vacuum leak somewhere. If this is the case, you can use something like carby cleaner and spray it around the intake manifold and pipes beforehand, you'll hear if it is

  • 2 weeks later...

Alright guys this is Moz09 however i have left the settings on my other computer which is out of use for now so using a mates account temporarily.

Anyways i found the vacuum issue as it was down to my boost controller vacuum line as it wasn't the right size one and was leaking, so ive replaced that now.

So this issue has been fixed, Ive as well done an oil and oil filter change.

However i still have stall's when its idling and its running rich still and still has backfiring issues when running idle, like you can actually feel the backfiring when your sitting inside.

Although I have thought about getting new spark plugs, but i don't want to chuck away money just yet, because i might not sure if new spark plugs will cause these stalls.

I haven't replaced the automatic boost controller yet, as i think it could be down to the automatic boost controller as sometimes the car wont rev past 2.5k and my mate told me its called a leap mode, so im going to replace it this week with a manual one and see if it fixes it.

However im still not 100% sure if it will fix the stalls, i am more interested in fixing the stalls currently rather then the car running rich and backfiring, however if you have any suggestions what could be the cause of the back firing and stalls as well it running rich.

Im guessing maybe the running rich issue is down to the ecu as i know the stock one does run rich but would the backfiring be the cause as well or?

I also have one more problem, sometimes when you actually let it warm up to like an operating temperature and you give it gas to about 4k, it will sometimes just shut off immediate would this be a cause of a another vacuum leak or misfire?

Hey hows it going, i switched today to the manaul boost controoler, im going to go tomorrow to buy some copper ones, however i eliminated the black exahust smoke problem as it was running quite a bit high boost before.

However i still tend to get a bit of a struggle around the 2.5k-3k mark when it comes to reving it as it will strugle to go past that so im guessing some sort of vaccum problem, however i looked at all the cables and intercooler piping and cant really find a leak.

Does anyone have any suggestions were i should look else?

I read somewhere about a small vacuum / airhose that used to go air box that if blocked, caused the car to to have a flatspot at the above rpm.

Try find a blocked hose or if someone else can elaborate cause its been 5+ months since i saw the thread with this info.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   I’ve got the biggest lot of problems with my R33 GTS-T   It was a freshly rebuilt 25th anniversary RB25DET (plastic cas, neo cams) probably 6 years ago now   The engine was running so well but I fkd up badly and trusted someone I’d known for 10 years that was well known around Plazmaman for his welding and fab work. I added a lovely photo of some of his previous work. Not sure why my car was worked on by whoever did this shit     I’m normally someone who would never open myself up to something like this, I still can’t believe I did it. Trusting him literally fkd it all up for me. Everything has been a struggle, like it’s almost been 6 years that’s how much I’ve just on and off been trying to work it all out.    All I wanted was a car that danced down low, like full boost from around 3~3500rpm to redline, don’t really care what power it puts down (if it ever does) but I just wanted it to be quick to get on it.    He recommended the turbo to get, I picked Hypergear but he told me to get the front 4” with a T4 and 0.68 rear housing.    I was expecting all these beautiful welds, tidy fab work and paid for it to be ready to go to a tuner when I got it back.    I got a car back that was an absolute mess, I actually couldn’t believe it was my car anymore. I don’t think you could even call what he did welds, they’re disgusting.    So I stripped everything he touched off it and with every bolt I loosened it just got worse and worse.    I covered it and literally built and finished another car in the meantime but now it’s getting to the point where I really want my Skyline back.   Its a struggle because I paid him to do all this shit because I didn’t know how to and now I’ve had to try and figure it all out omg    Please excuse the bird shit horrible welds, I’ve got my show pony car and am so beyond dealing with this car I don’t even really care at this point.    If someone told me about what he did to my car I wouldn’t have believed them but it happened to me. It was unbelievable. He went missing, my car went missing, it came back missing parts, the straight af chassis rails bore the scars of being dragged up a trailer backwards, even the sandwich plate was bent. Everything was leaking and open to whatever fell into it, rounded off/ missing bolts, power steering oil and coolant everywhere, no gaskets, parts stolen off it, even managed to damage the sump pan.   Promised me he’d finish the car, knew what it meant to me, I paid him thousands and thousands just for him to trash it. He told me he was fully licensed and insured, come to find out he’d cancelled his ABN, so obviously no insurance. I had laid up insurance on the car and would’ve been covered but I was scared they would’ve written it off or because the business was no longer trading I’d still be liable.    He was supposed to:  New fully custom mild steam pipe exhaust manifold with turbo location moved from factory position to high forward mount. (I don’t know if it is a mild steam pipe, I’ve got a funny feeling the waste gate isn’t in a very good position and I don’t think the outlets off each cylinder are equal) 4” custom stainless steel dump with external gate (he re-plumbed it) Cut and shut OEM intake manifold with throttle reposition (I ended up doing the throttle reposition) Box in pod filter (left out) New 100cel catalytic converter (pretty sure it’s there but unsure if it’s 100cel) Front mount intercooler piping fabricated to suit (all smashed up and rusty holes where he was supposed to make it look standard where fmic piping passes through. I don’t even think my front bar is going to fit 🙄) Custom 5” intake pipe from pod to turbo (didn’t come with it so had to do something to make it work with the Z32 afm)   Engine: Full cylinder head service & machining  Brand new valves Precision upgraded spring kit Engine block honed New bearings  New piston rings  New ARP conrod bolt kit New ARP head studs Cometic head gasket VRS kit   ATR43SS2 ball bearing turbo 0.68 rear housing  Turbosmart 45mm external wastegate (got delivered to the fab bloke, I’ve got no idea what spring is in it, I’m assuming the one that came pre installed) Walbro 260 fuel pump  Nismo 740cc injectors (tested to 880) Spitfire coil packs GCG FMIC RB25DET manual 5 speed 4:11 rear diff   I’ve got an Apexi Power FC in it atm, I was hoping to just get it to operating temp to make sure everything was okay before towing to a tuner but it’s over-fuelling too much. I don’t think that’s going to happen so i think I’m going to get either a Link G4 or Haltech for it. What do you guys recommend? I can’t work out the power FC so just gonna give up on that one     It’s got an exhaust leak coming from somewhere I can’t see 🙄    The fuel pressure was steady but now it like drops from 40 to 20psi randomly (noticed this yesterday)    I’ll attach pics of the shit he put on my car and the engine bay now as it sits    I really just need some help, I need a tuner in Sydney I can trust, I’d like to be with the car while it’s being tuned if possible, I know it looks terrible but unfortunately I’ve just got to put up with it for now and fix the cosmetic stuff later   Do you guys think the manifolds are going to be okay? Or do I throw the exhaust manifold and try again?   I don’t even think these combinations are going to work tbh   I know everything I fitted was rated to be able to take at least 400kW but most rated higher    If you’ve gotten this far I really really appreciate it 🙏 I don’t mind if you trash me or the car, I made a rookie error and f**k I’ve paid for it. As you’ll see 🙄  
    • From everything I’ve heard you’ll be waiting a long time for  the parts to arrive 
    • Have you looked at the workshop manual?
    • Hmm. I've gotten pretty good outcomes from talking to them about things that I've had go wrong or ideas for improvement. Have had a lot to say about the R32 FUCAs, and they have sent out some replacement parts for those, gratis, on a couple of occasions. Mind you, I have bought a couple hundreds of $ of replacement rod ends for them too!
    • I have a r34 sedan 1999 manual converted need some help with my speedometer it only reads upto 98km and then stops currently still running the auto cluster any easy fixes no speedo drive is connected yet, if someone has a video for wiring up the manual speedo sensor with the auto cluster please send through 
×
×
  • Create New...