Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My R34's has been using way too much petrol lately, I get about 200km's for $50, that's close to 17L per 100km. I cleaned the K&N air filter, tried both Shell V-Power and Mobil 98 Octane, but it didn't help.

Would anyone have any idea what the problem could be? I'm thinking it might be the spark plugs, I got the premium one's put in about 30.000k's ago and haven't changed them in a while. I change the oil, fuel filter & oil filter regularly.

Thanks for the help.

check O2 sensor between the extractor and firewall. or get nissan consult and read the R34 service manual. the manuals basically covers the whole problems. PM me if u need the R34 manual copy.

the first question has to be asked, how do you drive and what mods do you have? that can rule out pretty much all other things depending on the answer.

if you have mods like a bigger turbo, etc then you will always use more fuel if you like to give it the beans often.

also if you just drive lots of short trips and spend a fair bit of time with your foot down on boost. if you do like to boost it often then you aren't too far out of the range of what you can expect, however if you do lots of steady driving and don't spend much time in traffic slowing down and speeding up then that is a bit high and the o2 sensor is probably the main cause. this can be done with a multimeter. do a search to find out how.

how long does the car take to warm up (for the needle to come up to half way)? it should come up to temp within about 5 mins of driving (or 3 or 4kms). if it is taking much longer to do this then your thermostat needs replacing and that will get you better economy because you won't be on cold start enrichment so much. coming into the colder months this can become more of an issue as you can actually get to a point where the car pretty much never warms up so you use much more fuel.

the first question has to be asked, how do you drive and what mods do you have? that can rule out pretty much all other things depending on the answer.

if you have mods like a bigger turbo, etc then you will always use more fuel if you like to give it the beans often.

also if you just drive lots of short trips and spend a fair bit of time with your foot down on boost. if you do like to boost it often then you aren't too far out of the range of what you can expect, however if you do lots of steady driving and don't spend much time in traffic slowing down and speeding up then that is a bit high and the o2 sensor is probably the main cause. this can be done with a multimeter. do a search to find out how.

how long does the car take to warm up (for the needle to come up to half way)? it should come up to temp within about 5 mins of driving (or 3 or 4kms). if it is taking much longer to do this then your thermostat needs replacing and that will get you better economy because you won't be on cold start enrichment so much. coming into the colder months this can become more of an issue as you can actually get to a point where the car pretty much never warms up so you use much more fuel.

I imagine he doesn't hit boost very often...

Thanks for the replies guys.

mad082, I don't hit the boost often since the car is non-turbo :D but thank you for the reply, I usually shift the gears around 2.5k's RPM's, I don't really drive hard.

I found a thread on how to test the O2 sensor with the paperclip method, so I will do this on the weekend. Only mods I have on the car is an exhaust system and splitfire coilpacks, I'll test the o2 sensor on the weekend, if that's fine, then I will try changing the coilpacks.

  • 1 month later...

Well I changed the o2 sensor, no improvement.

Checked spark plugs and the fuel regulator, all good.

Checked the ECU for error codes but it comes up as code 55 = no error.

I get about 320k's per full tank before the fuel light comes on.

Anybody got any other ideas with what's causing this? Bad injectors? Vacuum leak?

Fatter tires = more drag

Underinflated tires

Check for dragging brakes. Also check the park brake/handbrake.

Get your wheels re-aligned.

If your car is a manual - check for a slipping clutch

If your car is an auto get the automatic serviced.

Check the vacum line to the variable length intake manifold's acuator. This can cause the car to act sluggish at low RPMs and also lower the engine torque - therefore you will be pressing the accelerator more.

Ensure you are using light weight engine oil nothing heavier than 40 weight.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And that's a massive problem, because deadshits will deadshit and give you false details. At least in these days of mobile cameraphones, it is trivial to take photos of any ID they are carrying at the same time as the 300 photo extensive documentation of the state of the vehicles that I recommend even for minor incidents. And you get photos of the person's face, any visible tatoos, etc etc, while you're at it. Then you try to avoid mentioning that you're fully capable of making explosives of various power levels and will wreck their shit if you are forced to hunt them down.
    • No, I don't remember the exact reasoning (was 20 years ago!) but the cops didn't end up supplying it to us either. Actually my mother went through a similar thing recently where she was hit when stationary, flustered and didn't get address (she got plate details, name, phone and insurance company, but not address). Person who hit her blocked her number and their insurance company (naturally) would not provide any details. Her insurance company also required her to pay the at fault premium because she did not have the address, cops did not help as it is a minor civil matter (they said their only course was if the other driver had left the scene of the accident without providing any details). She only ended up getting that refunded because they happened to be insured with Suncorp and she was with APIA so same company owners. For some reason the address is critical in insurance companies recovering money from the at fault party
    • If you're driving something like an R32 through to R34, no chance of meeting Euro4. Euro4 came out in 2006, and car manufacturers back then were complaining how hard it would be to meet those regulations. Not a chance a vehicle 10 years earlier is going to be compliant.
    • I presume it would take more than just slapping a big modern catalyst on the exhaust? It's interesting though, looking at the old sales brochures and listings it does not mention anything about emissions. No one cared.
    • Yeh nice, looks like their part of keep it reet? Will have to swing past. I'd much prefer someone actually look at my car and custom make a part, then get a generic part online and hope it works. 
×
×
  • Create New...