Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb20 Anyone Know How Much Power They Can Handle

smitty 33
 Share

Recommended Posts

battery Mentor

battery

Posted
Posted
lol ok then ill try and get 205kw when i got for a tune.

yeh better to be safe.

I learned the hard way when i raced for pink slip's and fried the piston rings but it was ok cause i almost had him.

then i built a 10 second "2jz no shit" powered supra to race Ferrari's.

know i have the money and most importantly the respect!

it ain't easy but i think you can do it to.

Count Grantleyish Grand Master

Count Grantleyish

Posted
Posted

Does the VL fitted with a obligatory dose pipe when 'cruising' as shown on the picture? (yes, I'm bored)

As for power the good 'ol 20 can handle - it's relative you could have as many killerwasps you want but how long it'll last for, that is the question.

Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Who knows, a guy ran a 3040 on his std Rb20 with cams in Sydney makign 280rwkws until his car had an acco. I have run 260rwkws for about 6 years and 45,000kms on a std motor (TD06-20G) Though the past two years it has not seen many kms, but still, call it 4 years and 40,000kms on a motor i got from a wrecker. And that includes plenty of track days, some drift days, some drag runs where it ran 12.9... and two Dutton Rallys. So to me that qualifies as reliable :ermm:

SimonR32 Grand Master

SimonR32

Posted
Posted
Who knows, a guy ran a 3040 on his std Rb20 with cams in Sydney makign 280rwkws until his car had an acco. I have run 260rwkws for about 6 years and 45,000kms on a std motor (TD06-20G) Though the past two years it has not seen many kms, but still, call it 4 years and 40,000kms on a motor i got from a wrecker. And that includes plenty of track days, some drift days, some drag runs where it ran 12.9... and two Dutton Rallys. So to me that qualifies as reliable :ermm:

Adam here is Perth ran close to 300rwkw for about 2 years before stretching the head studs :D

I'm hoping for at least 260rwkw and wanting more like 280rwkw, lets see how long that lasts...

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

I'm making 208.5 awkw nice n safe on stock RB20 with an HKS 2530 strapped to it. upgraded injectors, fuel reg and fuel pump, but that's all external stuffs. It was daily driven up until last year and the setup has lasted just fine for the last 5 years.

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted
This sounds hilarious! anyone know where it is?

i found it a lil while back but most f the pic's have disapeared now anyway so it doesn't make the lulz it used to

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OakvilleGTR
      Turn signal wiring question

      By OakvilleGTR · Posted

      Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • sonicii
      Lower A arm Skyline v35

      By sonicii · Posted

      The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Red Sky II
      Looking for autoelectrician in Perth who can do the OEM to double din stereo upgrade.

      By Red Sky II · Posted

      Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...