Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Steering Rack Help

Turk1

By Turk1,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Turk1 Proficient

Turk1

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey all, just wanted to create a thread to get some help and info on the steering rack.

I just replaced my tie rod ends and the steering rack is leaking in the boot on the right side.

Now I got a few questions about this so hopefully you can help me out here. I will give a list and hope for the best!

- What should I be looking at with this kind of problem?

- Is it real serious, can it wait to get fixed or should it be looked at ASAP?

- Is the GTS4 rack different to a GTS?

- Can it be fixed or am I better of replacing the rack?

- Is the rack one whole piece or is it in two pieces? (One for the left and right side)

- What's the prices for a reconditioned rack and a new one?

Hopefully I haven't asked too many questions here! I am just thinking that since the left side is fine and the right is leaking would it be possible to replace the right side. Can it be fixed or will I have to replace it. I have been looking on the forums and have seen a few for sale just don't want to act on them just yet as I am not sure if there is a difference with the GTS4 rack. I have got new rod ends for both sides so I believe the rack shouldn't be as expensive. Just not sure if I should be acting on this problem now or if it can wait.

Cheers!

Edited by Turk1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/321403-r33-steering-rack-help/
Share on other sites
central coast person Proficient

central coast person

Posted
Posted

1). If it continues to leak and your fluid PS fluid drops even a mm below the min level you can stave the pump of fluid and cause further damage.

2). Not too serious if you keep your fluids topped up, having it looked at buy a specialist will help you too detmine the problem.

3). Not sure but its Part No. is 49001-23U05 (I work for Nissan as a spare parts interp and have a GTS-4 myself and this will have to be back ordered from japan)

4). Need to ask a sepecialist if they can fix it as they will need to know what its going on with what parts.

5). Its a lot of parts and either side is totally different, i have not problem ordering any part for the rack.

6). Reconditioned one i dont know and a new one i will tell you tomorrow, probily going to be a fair bit.......

Turk1 Proficient

Turk1

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for that bro! Really appreciate it :blink:

I will be sure to keep it topped up, I talked to a specialist when I got my shocks/springs changed over and he says that a seal inside the rack is causing the leak. Wanted to follow up on the forum because was interested on knowing a little more about the rack haha.

central coast person Proficient

central coast person

Posted
Posted

new is about 2 grand ..........

Pretty hefty price but its not in demand, even my price which is dealer price is about $1600 and i usually see about 50% off retail so it defiatly will be hard to even find 2nd hand.

Give us a yell if you want any seals mate and ill get you a quote and trade price :(

central coast person Proficient

central coast person

Posted
Posted

Agreed do a search publicly too see if anyone will fix it for you. In the mean time this is a ebay company that repair them and are very good, also you get it sent too you and if you can take it out yourself and bolt the other one in you save more.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Skyline-R32-...=item414f9ff7ca

Just remember to ask them for the part No. too make sure as the one i have given you i looked up in the Nissan system and is for the GTS-4 and i am not too sure about the other models if they use the same one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX 路 Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 馃
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan 路 Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan 路 Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan 路 Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan 路 Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
脳
脳
  • Create New...