Going All Out On Rb25de

[timmy_r33]

hey everyone just let all you p plates know im going 4 it lol

im going to be the dickhead who is going to have the fast rb25de haha

list of wat doing

port polish head

saved 20thou

heavy duty springs

titamuim seats

cramic head gasket

big cams

adjustable tomei cam gears

hpc coated headers

greedy type plemum

14m o ring fuel rail

fuel pressure reg

800cc injectors

boch 040 fuel pump

hks mushroom pod

themo fan

haltech e11v2

and see how things go mite do 30 bottem end and over size piston but thats a maybe

thats all i can rember anyway will be dyno in about 2 weeks lets us no wat you think.

and estamated power

cheers

[lachlanw]

lol at injector size

bit optimistic maybe

[jrm]

lol at injector size

bit optimistic maybe

heh 800cc would flow 800hp at the flywheel .. from an RB25DE .. mmmm yeah.

To be honest, I'm not sure why the OP is bothering. Ultimately, he's going to end up with a car that's going to be an engineering hassle, from what I understand in most states modified P-plate cars aren't legal, he hasn't considered other upgrades like clutch, brakes or suspension...

At the end of the day, he's better off holding onto his cash, and waiting to buy a turbo that will be able to get more power for less financial outlay. Building a fast/high-revving NA is fun, sure - don't get me wrong - but it's not cheap, and you compromise the reliability of the engine from having to rev it to get the power. Ultimately you're going to get a better performance result for less money and have a more reliable motor from forced induction ..

Additionally, by buying a turbo car outright, you already have bigger brakes, an engine designed to handle more power, etc ...

[GTScotT]

dont be silly, ur still going to get pwned by hondas lol

keep the cash and buy a faster car when the time comes

[mad082]

if it was me this is how i would work out what to do

"hmmm, i could spend... lets say 10k, building a super powerful rb25 (or 25/30) that might end up making 200kw that is a pig to drive on the street,

OR

i could sell the natro car, buy a turbo'd one for about the same money and have a stronger gearbox, LSD, bigger brakes, etc, and then spend about 6k and have up towards 300kw that is much more street friendly."

i know which way i'd be going

[R34 -_-]

+1 for what mad said.

I even regret doing my custom air intake. For and n/a car only the exhaust should be done, otherwise its just money down the drain

[mad082]

oh i forgot to put something in my post, so i'll quote it to fix it up

if it was me this is how i would work out what to do

"hmmm, i could spend... lets say 10k, building a super powerful rb25 (or 25/30) that might end up making 200kw that is a pig to drive on the street,

OR

i could sell the natro car, buy a turbo'd one for about the same money and have a stronger gearbox, LSD, bigger brakes, etc, and then spend about 6k and have up towards 300kw that is much more street friendly, and then spend the remaining 4k on beer and hookers."

i know which way i'd be going

[SKiT_R31]

This thread almost seems like a troll...

Anyway, If I was a P plater, and had some drug money to blow on my natro skyline and didn’t want popo attention + wanted a perfectly tame street car;

I'd go an RB30 Bottom end, SPOOL 3.4L stroker kit.

Deck the block so the pistons rose flush to the thickness of the compressed stock head gasket, aiming for a compression of around 10.5:1 (assuming its your daily, this is to keep it 10.5-11:1 Compression ratio

Porting/polishing/oversize valves/enlarged ports

Mild cams, something between 255-260 range, with adjustable exhaust cam gear, and VCT controller (if the ecu cant do it)

Stock Headers (maybe some internal work), stock Heat shields/covers/brackets, Stock GTS-T Exhaust, Stock Air box with high flow filter

Stock intake manifold, but modified somehow to get more air in it, maybe machine out the throttle body and fit a slimmer knife edged butterfly.

Tuned with aftermarket management of your choice (sneakier the better, retaining stock loom/sensors etc would be smarter)

And would probably have power somewhere in the vicinity of a stock GTST, with a car that just as streetable, with no one knowing any different.

Keeping the rest of the looking as standard/low key as possible (stockish ride height with stiffer springs/shocks, stock/non flashy rims, lsd, quiet car, stock interior bits etc) and the car would actually be something worth having.

[Super Drager]

This thread almost seems like a troll...

Anyway, If I was a P plater, and had some drug money to blow on my natro skyline and didn’t want popo attention + wanted a perfectly tame street car;

I'd go an RB30 Bottom end, SPOOL 3.4L stroker kit.

Deck the block so the pistons rose flush to the thickness of the compressed stock head gasket, aiming for a compression of around 10.5:1 (assuming its your daily, this is to keep it 10.5-11:1 Compression ratio

Porting/polishing/oversize valves/enlarged ports

Mild cams, something between 255-260 range, with adjustable exhaust cam gear, and VCT controller (if the ecu cant do it)

Stock Headers (maybe some internal work), stock Heat shields/covers/brackets, Stock GTS-T Exhaust, Stock Air box with high flow filter

Stock intake manifold, but modified somehow to get more air in it, maybe machine out the throttle body and fit a slimmer knife edged butterfly.

Tuned with aftermarket management of your choice (sneakier the better, retaining stock loom/sensors etc would be smarter)

And would probably have power somewhere in the vicinity of a stock GTST, with a car that just as streetable, with no one knowing any different.

Keeping the rest of the looking as standard/low key as possible (stockish ride height with stiffer springs/shocks, stock/non flashy rims, lsd, quiet car, stock interior bits etc) and the car would actually be something worth having.

And thats why putting that much money into a car like that is a WASTE, "oh i spent $20,000 to get my car to the stock turbo level and when i get EPA'd, people will know its illegal anyway so i would have been better driving a turbo one around"

[TwoCents]

Could bolt on a turbo to your worked N/A engine after your off your p's. May be worth it may not?

I do agree you should should start off with a good base car, Ie a GTS-T instead of a GTS. But its your own choice in the end

[GTS4WD]

I say bullshit to all that.

Replace fuel system to E85 friendly one.

Run E85.

14:1 CR

ITB's

Rise the max RPM a little but keep a meaty mid to high end torque and power curve.

Lighten and balance everything

Drop every single gram of weight out of the car.

Thats what an "all out" rwd NA should be like

Edited May 21, 2010 by GTS4WD

[SKiT_R31]

wtf, like you are going to get EPA'd.

It could make a f**kload more than a factory turbo, the reason I said otherwise was because of the things you would have to do to keep it looking stock (exhaust, manifolds, throttle, intake pipe, mild cams/compression), sounding stock and street drivable would dampen the power ALOT. I have 4 cars, a built RB30DET, an RB30DE, an RB25DE+T, and an RB30E+T. All are completely different, and have their places.

Not everything is about the most power possible, the 30e+t does a good skid, but its lazy and wont rev. The RB25D+T is incredibly responsive, great on fuel, and is just a great daily car. The RB30DE is just heaps of fun - especially in the twisties (so is the 25de+t though), makes a mean sound, gets up and goes, pulls beautifully linear (With a great surge up top) and just screams. While the RB30DET is good for making people shit their pants in a straight line or going sideways.

If you’re a P plater, have heaps of money to blow for shits and giggles, and want to make more power without anyone finding out, that’s the sort of thing you can do. The car will drive well, pull hard and will make decent power. Once you’re off your P's you can let it breath again, put on some visible bolt ons and make a fair lump more power.

People have spent a lot of time and/or money on a lot worse cars & engines to make less power. I can’t see why it couldn’t make a fair amount of power, somewhere between 160-200kW at the wheels depending on how much you push it with cams and compression (talking about the 3.4L). That’s a car happily in the 13's, with a suitable amount of power for it to be quick on the street and for some fun around the track/through the hills/twisties.

Too much power is not always a good thing, it takes the fun out of things, its good on occasion to test yourself out, but I’d much rather drive my lower powered 25DE+T & RB30DE (both have equal power - around 160WkW) than the RB30DET on anything but a straight line.

Everyone keeps forgetting we are in the N/A section. Also, just like everyone making power with a turbo doesn’t have forgies and 10g’s worth of supporting mods, you don’t have to N/A either. Yes you can have a nice wish list, but at the end of the day if you don’t f**k it up, you can still make good numbers.

Just like you can strap a GT30 on a stock RB25DET, run 1 bar, add supporting mods such as injectors & management. You can get an N/A motor, and spend just as much by bumping up the compression, running some meaty cams. With a turbo motor, you can get a stock RB30e bottom end, throw an rb25 head on it, a bigger turbo and you’ve got an rb30det. Just like you can get an RB30 block, give it a buzz, drop your rb25de slugs in it, new ring and bearings, once again cams, and your making some bloody decent numbers. Yes you can spend thousands balancing it, putting lightweight pistons and rods, headwork etc – just like you can with a turbo motor. But at the end of the day, with just the simple 3L, cams, compression and management, with breathing mods, somewhere around 150kW at the wheels is where you’re going to start.

Obviously if you’re trying to make the most power humanly possible from a certain base engine, FI is the way to go, but that’s not always what everybody wants.

Edited May 21, 2010 by SKiT_R31

[timmy_r33]

hey everyone just let all you p plates know im going 4 it lol

im going to be the dickhead who is going to have the fast rb25de haha

list of wat doing

port polish head

saved 20thou

heavy duty springs

titamuim seats

cramic head gasket

big cams

adjustable tomei cam gears

hpc coated headers

greedy type plemum

14m o ring fuel rail

fuel pressure reg

800cc injectors

boch 040 fuel pump

hks mushroom pod

themo fan

haltech e11v2

platum plugs

98 octane

spitfire coil packs

and see how things go mite do 30 bottem end and over size piston but thats a maybe

thats all i can rember anyway will be dyno in about 2 weeks lets us no wat you think.

and estamated power

and its is in a turbo shell so i did my research got the 5 studs and r34 braks and bc coil overs

cheers

[timmy_r33]

cheers bro good info to know very helpful unlike some others and like he said we are in the n/a section so dont watse your time i really dont give a

shit wat u say im rackin it in and got a chick so i need somthing to blow it on and its sweet fun at the end of the day buildin car and for a change

doing somthing somone hasn't done before.

yeah how about you just keep thos retarded comments off my post because for one i have done my resarch and turbo/non turbo 25 heads are the

same so as soon as im off my p's i cam just bolt that head onto somthing sick with diffrent compressions ratios and stick a nice snail on the side hah it just means i can have a resonble car for the next 2 yeah

look out honda boi you dont know wat you could be dealin with ahahah deff should race tho ahhaha

[jrm]

it must be school holidays again

[scotty014]

it must be school holidays again

agreed

its not as easy as 'just bolt a turbo on and off you go' when you get off your p's. it will cost you even more money to get a turbo working properly on it. i know its your money and you can do what you want with it but please think about it a bit more. the end result will be that it wont be very fast and when it comes to getting a turbo on it it will cost you a hell of alot more.

[R33_Dude]

My rule of thumb is: if you can't spell properly you don't know what your talking about.

Also from your posts you have made it reasonably clear that you haven't done your research.

Why are you using 800cc injectors?

Why do you say you "might" go for a RB30E bottom end when the engine will be dynoed in two weeks?

How long do you think it takes to pull the engine out, rebuild it, put it back in, wire it up, book dyno time, get it to the tuner, and tune it properly?

How do you think the police are going to act when you say that the turbo shell hasn't got a turbo motor?

For the most part you do know that they will automatically assume that this is a performance mod?

If you could please answer all of these legitimate questions for me, I and everyone else here would take you far more seriously.

Edited May 22, 2010 by R33_Dude

[timmy_r33]

My rule of thumb is: if you can't spell properly you don't know what your talking about. that a good rule pfft

Also from your posts you have made it reasonably clear that you haven't done your research.

Why are you using 800cc injectors? it was ment to say 660cc my misses didnt understand me

Why do you say you "might" go for a RB30E bottom end when the engine will be dynoed in two weeks? its sittin at the rebuilders i just have to say do it and he say 3 days to do it

How long do you think it takes to pull the engine out, rebuild it, put it back in, wire it up, book dyno time, get it to the tuner, and tune it properly?well it takes me 3 hours to take the motor out and the rest its really not that hard f**k paying somone to do somthing so easy and the really depend how good the guy is at tuning

How do you think the police are going to act when you say that the turbo shell hasn't got a turbo motor? well i had been driving it for 6 month before i pulled it down and got deffected 2 and not once did they say shit so meh f**k the police if not got a mate thet will engerneer it and pulled over many of time and they never looked under the bonnet

For the most part you do know that they will automatically assume that this is a performance mod?well they can suck my dick im not some dumb ass p plater who goes around being a dick head and sure they could but like i said f**kem dont let thos fags push us around

If you could please answer all of these legitimate questions for me I and everyone else here would take you far more seriously.

happy to answer anymore qustions

[R33_Dude]

happy to answer anymore qustions

Thanks for your eloquent reply. Yes, I do have more questions and a few responses.

My rule of thumb is: if you can't spell properly you don't know what your talking about.

that a good rule pfft

It is when communication is occurring in the printed medium. Your spelling and word choice makes me think (not necessarily in the following order): arrogant, uneducated, young, and inexperienced. If you spelt properly it would seem more enthusiastic. Your hostile too, which makes me think that your not out for advice, just to troll.

Why are you using 800cc injectors?

it was ment to say 660cc my misses didnt understand me

Okay well, 660cc injectors flow to approximately 600HP on a 90% duty cycle (approximately). Why not use stock turbo injectors? Save yourself a wad of cash. There's no way you'll make over 200kW. Fair enough use 660's if you have them sitting around.

How long do you think it takes to pull the engine out, rebuild it, put it back in, wire it up, book dyno time, get it to the tuner, and tune it properly?

well it takes me 3 hours to take the motor out and the rest its really not that hard f**k paying somone to do somthing so easy and the really depend how good the guy is at tuning

Not hard to get someone to do something so easy huh? Why not tune it yourself. If you want a good road tune (particularly on a N/A engine) expect a few days worth of tuning for a solid tune at all revs, all gears - response is meant to be the aim of the game.

How do you think the police are going to act when you say that the turbo shell hasn't got a turbo motor?

EDIT: had to spread this over two posts...

Edited May 22, 2010 by R33_Dude

[R33_Dude]

well i had been driving it for 6 month before i pulled it down and got deffected 2 and not once did they say shit so meh f**k the police...

Really? How immature.

For the most part you do know that they will automatically assume that this is a performance mod?

well they can suck my dick im not some dumb ass p plater who goes around being a dick head and sure they could but like i said f**kem dont let thos fags push us around

Just ignoring most of what your saying there and straight to the point: if your "mate" can engineer it, why not get it engineered from the start?

Now including the rest of what you said: the law is that they can defect your car. It is not "pushing you around". Its the law, and it means conforming to manufacturer specifications and a variety of other requirements. I know of at least three people defected because the traffic patrol counted the wheel studs - didn't even need to pop the bonnet. Save a lot of pain and get it engineered from the start - all of my cars are.

So in summary I think you will make approximately 140 - 150 rwkW on a good day and and with an optimistic dyno with a lot of money spent on unnecessary things. I'm not trying to stop you or discourage you from going N/A I'm just saying think about it a bit more.

If in doubt talk to skit R31 - I love what he has done with his RB30DE.

Edited May 22, 2010 by R33_Dude